Grinding noise while cornering
#16
Burning Brakes
yep, that's what I'm thinking, now I just have to find someone capable of doing it!I would like to fix the ride harshness....even small road irregularities hit pretty hard.
#17
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Shocks make a huge difference here...I know yours were recently replaced, but from a ride-quality standpoint, I've had excellent luck with Bilsteins. The high-speed valving feels quite supple (comes into play over quick, sharp inputs, such as when going over railroad tracks), yet they offer pretty good control in transitions, etc. Tire profile and sidewall construction can make a big difference too.
Sounds like you've got relatively light wheels. Heavier ones can increase harshness. Call one of the tech people at Tire Rack or Discount Tire, and they can suggest some tires with more supple sidewalls.
Sounds like you've got relatively light wheels. Heavier ones can increase harshness. Call one of the tech people at Tire Rack or Discount Tire, and they can suggest some tires with more supple sidewalls.
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Bones: could be too much camber, but toe-out will kill the inside edges even faster than excessive camber (depending on tire, but with 16" wheels I don't see that making a diff). Could also be bearings, but again - you should be able to diagnose that through shaking the wheel.
Another possible correlation is your complaint of ride harshness - what type/brand shocks were installed? The rear tires wear and perform much better when firmly planted on the ground - bad rear shocks can cause the inside edges of the tires to wear also... do you do a lot of highway driving? Another cause can be over inflation of a stiff sidewall tire and excessive negative camber... but, most tire pressure are lower than recommended.
Skip
Another possible correlation is your complaint of ride harshness - what type/brand shocks were installed? The rear tires wear and perform much better when firmly planted on the ground - bad rear shocks can cause the inside edges of the tires to wear also... do you do a lot of highway driving? Another cause can be over inflation of a stiff sidewall tire and excessive negative camber... but, most tire pressure are lower than recommended.
Skip
#19
Burning Brakes
Skip: Previous owner bought the shcoks from Vertex according to the records, but no brand is given. They are gray in color. I don't feel but the slightest play in the rear wheel when off the ground ( when attempting to push it in and out, none in any other direction). I can see some negative camber, maybe a bit more on the right side. I assume the average alignment shop will NOT have the tools to align it properly? And BTW the car is driven on the highway 80% of the time, at higher speeds (70MPH +).
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[quote]Originally posted by Bones944:
<strong>They are gray in color.<hr></blockquote></strong>
Boge (OEM)
[quote]<strong>I don't feel but the slightest play in the rear wheel when off the ground ( when attempting to push it in and out, none in any other direction).<hr></blockquote></strong>
Doesn't rule out the wheel bearing, but it's certainly not at the brink of catastrophic failure
[quote]<strong>I can see some negative camber, maybe a bit more on the right side. I assume the average alignment shop will NOT have the tools to align it properly?<hr></blockquote></strong>
Probably not - some generic shops could handle such a task if they are attentive. May help to bring your own alignment specs, and have an idea how each is adjusted (detailed in the archives here). The only special tool is the rear toe eccentric (SIR Tool P221). This might be a good opportunity to find the local P-car wrench... if not just to get a recommendation for an alignment shop.
[quote]<strong>And BTW the car is driven on the highway 80% of the time, at higher speeds (70MPH +).</strong><hr></blockquote>
Based on your tire wear and the type driving you do my vote is for excessive toe-out and/or bad shocks. For the sound you are hearing (whump) my vote is for wheel bearings. Please understand - troubleshooting sounds over the Internet is like inbreeding... it might feel good at first, but it's just plain risky
Skip
<strong>They are gray in color.<hr></blockquote></strong>
Boge (OEM)
[quote]<strong>I don't feel but the slightest play in the rear wheel when off the ground ( when attempting to push it in and out, none in any other direction).<hr></blockquote></strong>
Doesn't rule out the wheel bearing, but it's certainly not at the brink of catastrophic failure
[quote]<strong>I can see some negative camber, maybe a bit more on the right side. I assume the average alignment shop will NOT have the tools to align it properly?<hr></blockquote></strong>
Probably not - some generic shops could handle such a task if they are attentive. May help to bring your own alignment specs, and have an idea how each is adjusted (detailed in the archives here). The only special tool is the rear toe eccentric (SIR Tool P221). This might be a good opportunity to find the local P-car wrench... if not just to get a recommendation for an alignment shop.
[quote]<strong>And BTW the car is driven on the highway 80% of the time, at higher speeds (70MPH +).</strong><hr></blockquote>
Based on your tire wear and the type driving you do my vote is for excessive toe-out and/or bad shocks. For the sound you are hearing (whump) my vote is for wheel bearings. Please understand - troubleshooting sounds over the Internet is like inbreeding... it might feel good at first, but it's just plain risky
Skip
#21
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the replies Skip, the "whoomp" is the tires, that is NOT a new sound to me! I've heard that sound over my 25 years of driving before! The "cupped" wear creates the "whoomp" sound. Unfortunately there are NO P-car wrenches in this neck of the woods, I will have to go to Raleigh. However a friend that owns a German performance shop ( lets me use his air-conditioned state of the art shop, and has worlds of knowledge, and most P-car specialty tools) has an alignment bay if I'm not mistaken. If not he will point me in the right direction. Thanks for the help!