Thanks, you got me on the BFE Yes, I am aware of the FQS (Fuel Quality Switch) settings on the DME board but I think they are for minor timing adjustments not fuel? On my Vitesse K28-8 chip they are used as 4 pairs of settings depending on the injector size. Dropping to the lower setting of the two settings retards the spark a bit to prevent knock by compensating for lower octane gas like in California where 91 octane is the tops at 99% of the pumps. My HC and CO is so far off the mark I don't feel the FQS will effect it much. I even removed the soldered connection I made on the O2 signal wire after reading the wire strands carry the outside air source for the O2 sensor and solder interferes with it...it didn't change anything. My HC is off by a factor of 2 and CO is off by a factor of 6 for passing. I just might have a bad sensor as the voltage is staying on the rich side and never going lean like it's supposed to. I'm going to try an O2 swap first before tearing into the other stuff.

Keep the ideas coming, I really do appreciate it

 

There are pure fuel adjustments on the FQS as well. I have John's MAF and the FQS provides a combo of fuel or timing only or combo's of both together.

 

It's a shame. I bought the chip from John and it worked great and I don't think that's the problem. I lost the instructions with the FQS settings and called him about 18 months ago. All he said was they don't keep records of each chip and they aren't all the same which did me no good at all
Anyway, I just did a look under the manifold and found the DME temp sensor in the block is covered with some heavy green deposits. It looks like a little coolant has been leaking between the plastic plug section and 1-piece brass body. A leak between the body and plastic can only be a failed tip as it's one solid piece of brass from the mounting surface to tip. As soon as I remove the IC pipe I'm going to test the sensor with an ohmmeter; the spares I have are both at 2100 ohms or above. If that doesn't help it's on on to other causes.

Gotta love these cars right?

 

I think I got it solved. I took the airbox off to test the DME temp sensor and checked the AFM door while I was at it. The sensor was fine. The AFM flapper wasn't closed all the way; poked it a few times and it wouldn't close by about 1/2". Took it off and it had almost zero spring pressure. I compared it to 2 good AFM's and they snapped shut and took much more pressure to move the door. It's also interesting that the bad one was a remanufactured unit with the Bosch parts number ground off. I took it out for a spirited run and it idles and runs so much smoother now with no fuel odor at idle or after fully warmed up. I do believe it's ready to smog now. I would also like to thank CPR for throwing in the AFM with the airbox I bought from him.

I hopefully won't have to come back again to post about some new smog issues. Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed... it is always something with these things, especially now that they are getting some summer miles piled on.