Knallrot951

Anyone installed a Accusump system ? I would like some info/pics on this upgrade... <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

Kevin

Brent 89-GT

It is really quite simple. You can see pics of the units and plumbing at <a href="http://www.accusump.com" target="_blank">www.accusump.com</a>

I am expecting my 3qt accusump and parts to arrive tomorrow. I am not sure where you would put it in a 951. The hatch area would probably be your only choice unless you have a gutted racecar. I will install mine behind the front bumper on my 928.

It is a simple matter of mounting the unit, running ignition power to the switch and doing the plumbing. I will be using the oil filter sandwich plate adapter. So from there I need to run a line to the accusump and I am done.

You need to run a filter with a bypass valve in it like the stock 944/951 filter. This ensures that oil will pass from the accusump directly to the engine and not back to the pan.

A little fiddling with the oil level is all I anticipate beyond the simple install.

I think the 944/951 cars do quite well just running a little overfull. The 928 suffers from some other problems like oil accumulation in the sizable heads, and bad oil foaming in hard right hand corners. These things do not seem to be a problem for 944s.

Skip

Kevin Kehoe wrote one up for the Tech-Session site:

<a href="http://64.226.197.185/Paragon/Tech/944_accusump_install.htm" target="_blank">944 Accusump Installation</a>

Good Luck!

Knallrot951

I did read the Paragon tech post and they mounted the Accusump at the spare tire. I just think that the possibility of having debris hit that oil line might be a risk. Maybe a creative guard would work to protect that braided line.

Kevin

Geo

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Brent 89-GT:
<strong>It is a simple matter of mounting the unit, running ignition power to the switch and doing the plumbing. I will be using the oil filter sandwich plate adapter. So from there I need to run a line to the accusump and I am done.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">You should not use the electric valve with the Accusump. They don't recommend it because it cannot operate quickly enough for road racing.

What plate are you using? I need to get one (although I will be using a CM remote filter).

David Floyd

I have seen one mounted behind the passenger fender liner very neat install plumbed into a CM filter in the stock filter location.

951Gary

If you decide to go with the Accusump, I have a 3qt Accusump and solenoid valve that only has ~20 minutes of run time that I'd be willing to sell. It turns out that drysump and Accusump don't mix well...the scavenge pump is faster than the pressure pump, so eventually the 3 qt from the Accusump went onto the track and the sump tank was 3qt low...

I'll be gone a few days, but PM me if interested
Gary

Brent 89-GT

Geo,

I spoke to the accusump tech rep as I was putting together my order. The electric valve is standard fare. The manual valve is as you say for road racing, meaning extreme racing with over 1.0g of cornering force. I will be running street tires and doing DE. The electric valve is suitable for my application. It gives the added benefit of pre oiling the engine when you turn the key and you don't have to remeber to turn it on either.

The difference is the bore size of the valve itself. the manual one has a larger cross section for faster flow. There is no reaction time as the electric one is fully open whenever the key is on.

TaboII

Ok I have to chime in on this one as I am in the middle of a rebuild my self. I am not a master mech but it seems to me that this is an awesome safeguard product for normal street driving and occasional track use. I mean we all know the importance of oil pressure in our cars and having an oil backup just seem like the right thing to do.

Ok Here is the tricky part and the questions in need of an answer. Has any one attempted to install one of these under the hood? I am modifying my Air intake during the rebuild and should have some creative room on the driver’s side engine compartment to install this unit, “Again with some creativity”. Though I am thinking that with my new headers wrapped in heat shielding material there should be no reason why I cannot mount this on the passenger side engine compartment where there will be more space to work with and it would be closet to the oil filter area where it will be connect “Less pluming to worry about.

Can any one tell me why this would be a bad idea?

I am thinking I am going to go with the electronic actuator as I am mainly a street driver and will only experience track use on occasion “AutoX”. So the main reason for this unit will be a Pre ignition lubrication to elevate engine component wear during startup with the occasional high speed heavy footed run.

In my opinion a couple hundred dollars worth of engine insurance is not a bad idea not to mention taking a look at it from a preventative maintenance stand point.

OPINIONS are very welcome. PM Me or post here in response.

Thank TaboII

Brent 89-GT

It is a little larger than you are envisioning I think. The canister is 4 inches in diameter and by the time the valve and gauge are installed it will be nearly 2 feet long.

I think you are right on track otherwise. I am trying to install mine with only about 4 ft of hose, rather than mounting it in the trunk and having 15 ft.

The benefits for street use are limited to pre-oiling. Auto-X does not have enough sustained high G cornering to cause a problem. In my experience, the 951 doesn't require it for track use either. I used to run mine about 1/2 qt overfull and didn't have a problem, or see one, in three years. I am installing one due to stories of quite a few 928 GT's that spun rod bearings on the track. If I had heard the same about 944's, I would have installed one on that car, but I haven't.

There is another issue that they don't really tell you about. Regulating your oil level becomes a guessing game. The accusump works off of the engines oil pressure, which fluctuates with use and temp. That means that the amount stored in the accusump can vary some and therefore so can the amount in the sump. Too much and you could end up burning some oil. That can lead to detonation which will kill your engine. Low levels will likely be taken care of by the extra couple of qts in the accusump.

I totally agree with you, these things are great insurance. I think you are looking at about $400 all told. Much better than a $10k engine rebuild <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

TaboII

Great information thanks.

I am thinking about the two quart design as I don’t think there is the need to kill a duck with a cannon here. My thinking was that the use if for nothing else would be for pre start lubrication and the occasional situation where there may be a loss of oil pressure. The spinning of number two rod bearing is not limited to track use, I have learn of many hoarer stories even in the turbo version of these cars. Remember the block is the same in general. So the aliments of the GT are bound to be similar in other vehicles. As for mounting it in the engine compartment the idea was to limit the amount of piping as you had mentioned.

Now for the matter of oil level, I have not experienced a major fluctuation of oil level sense I have owned my car but then I do check it only when the car is warmed up. As I figure it, if I monitor the amount of oil being added into the system then I should be alright. I’ll contact Accusump guys and ask about the oil level just to be for sure.

Thanks Tabo II

Geo

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Brent 89-GT:
<strong>Geo,

I spoke to the accusump tech rep as I was putting together my order. The electric valve is standard fare. The manual valve is as you say for road racing, meaning extreme racing with over 1.0g of cornering force. I will be running street tires and doing DE. The electric valve is suitable for my application. It gives the added benefit of pre oiling the engine when you turn the key and you don't have to remeber to turn it on either.

The difference is the bore size of the valve itself. the manual one has a larger cross section for faster flow. There is no reaction time as the electric one is fully open whenever the key is on.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">OK, I'm obviously not a tech for Accusump, but....

Roadracing is no more extreme (as far as the car is concerned) than DE. If you go to the Accusump web site you will find they are strongly against using the electric valve for road course driving. It's too slow. In fact, they go so far as to tell exactly what the electric valve is good for.

I am dubious. Sorry. I certainly could be wrong since as I said, I'm not a tech for Accusump, but this doesn't fly with what they have on their web site and other things I've been told. Honestly, I'd double check with another tech. It doesn't make sense.

Brent 89-GT

OK, I called accusump and collected some more data <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

The scoop on the manual vs electric valve is tied to refill rates. The manual valve is a ball valve, no restriction what so ever when open. The electric valve is a little more conveluted because it uses a diaphragm to shut the flow off. The discharge rates are very close. The re-fill on the electric is slower. If you have a situation where the sump must discharge often, the idea is that the quicker re-fill rate of the manual valve is preferable.

The unit comes with a pressure gauge. Once I have it in I will be able to time the refill. Obviously I will use the pre-oiling feature to test. That means when I turn the key, the accusump basically discharges completely. I will be able to see how long it takes to fill. I think that will give me some idea of how effective it will be for me.

How often do you really NEED it to discharge? Mark Kibbort has a whole season of Speedvision GT racing under his belt in a 928 S4. His car does not have an accusump. He has not had a failure. I do not think the sump will be discharging and refilling often enough to be concerned.

The 928 seems to be suceptible in hard, sustained left handers. Right handers don't seem to bother it much. That in iteself buys you some refill time, unless you run most tracks backwards, most of the corners are right handers.

I see it as just a little insurance, not a crutch. They also informed me that there is an upfit for the electric valve. It is a pressure sensor that keeps the sump from discharging above a preset level. That means it will hold the oil until you NEED it, rather than fluctuating to the low side at an inopportune time. This keeps the sump full more of the time. I may add this just to help with the oil level control.

Alan C.

I have an electric 3 quart in my 951. On the time to discharge issue you'll find that the times goes up quite a bit on cold mornings.

Mine is plumbed in through the top of a CM filter housing. One thing I found with this setup is the need to run the rubber anti drain back gasket in the housings bottom. Without it the oil is forced back through the oil cooler.

Here's a shot of how mine is mounted.

Alan

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/AccumsumpInstall.jpg" alt=" - " />