Anyone used of these tools before to torque head stud bolts?
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28100-To.../dp/B0002STSW6

Or is there another tool that works best for getting the proper angles?

 

Torque wrenches have no substitutes. Angles? Whatever.

I use my eyes. I think angle meters are ridiculous. You know what 90 degrees looks like, right? So put you breaker bar on there, point it at the front of the car, and turn it until it points at the side. Done.

 

I'm probably thinking overly cautiously, but I really don't wan't to fire it up and have it blow to pieces 5 miles down the road.

The other fun step I'm trying to visualize is the timing of the two camshafts. FSM instructions say to turn the engine to 45 degrees before TDC before installing the camshafts. How do I know where that is without the cam gear installed? Is there some sort of dial I'm supposed to attach to the crank gear while I'm turning it?

The FMS also has some pretty complicated instructions on how to use dial gauges on the cylinder head and lifter to adjust timing. Anyone done it before this way that could provide a bit of helpful input on how it works out?

EDIT: after reading through many pages of old posts I'm beginning to understand how it all works. The keyway of the hub matches the size of the key while the keyway on the gear is a bit larger, this allows you to use the slotted holes in the gear to adjust timing. Buy putting the temporary bolts in during removal timing is kept the same when the gear is put back on the end of the camshaft. I just need to make sure I align both camshafts properly and when I turn everything over at the end it should all line back up with the TDC marks. Sound right? Or am I missing something big?

Will that all go out the window though if I replace my currently pitted exhaust cam with another like replacement or a 944S cam though? So much fun...

 

Replacement cylinder head is finally ready to go, just have to pick it up. When I got back the cracked one after it was cleaned I got a box of parts they took off, including the pressure relief valve part 944 107 139 00 Where does it get installed into the head?

EDIT: Ok I've spotted it in one of the pictures I took, right next to the exhaust side of the rear bridge in the corner

 

While prepping for the cylinder head install today I secured the rear bearing bridge and noticed an issue once the loctite was in place and the bolts were secure. There is a small chip of metal missing from the inside cap of the bridge where the valve cover gasket sits. It's not all the way to the edge where it will leave a hole for oil to get out, but it might make it easier for a leak to occur.

What's more important? That the bridge matches the head or that it's in perfect shape? If need be I can remove it and use one of the bridges from my old head.

 

Karl, might the bridge and head be matched by wear? I was wondering about a chip in mine (also in the middle) when we reassembled it, but the one from my old head didn't fit nicely on the new one, so we went with the chipped one.

 

Managed to get the head onto the block, but ran into an issue tightening the head stud nuts with the rear bearing bridge installed. Can't get to the back two without a u-joint which then makes it very hard to properly torque. Looks like I'll have to remove the rear bearing bridge and hope there are no issues tightening the bridge down with the end caps already in place.

 

So apparently the shop nearby tightens the head studs with the bridge installed, using a short 19mm socket and an extension. I know I tried that with my tools but had trouble with clearance, anyone done it that way?

 

This project will be the death of me yet

As I was screwing down the second screw that holds the chain tensioner to the head it started spinning and wouldn't torque down because the thread pulled out. I purchased a helicoil but the 1/4" drill bit just spins in my cheap drill as soon as it starts to cut the aluminum

 

Alright, I have the cams all set, the gear on and the belt in place with the cams, and crank at TDC according to the mark. When I turn the engine over by hand it moves pretty freely until the pistons reach the top of their travel. At that point they get tough to turn but it doesn't feel sudden like they're hitting valves. To be honest I can't remember how it felt before I pulled it apart so I wanted to find out if someone else could verify this is how an S2 should feel by hand.

EDIT: Spark plugs are not installed so it's not due to compression

 

When I turn mine over there is pretty stout resistance when the pistons near the top of the compression stroke - comes on pretty quickly, too.

Stick with it man, you've got a cheering section. Nice to see you bucking the trend and making it whole again, instead of parting it out!

 

Yeah, I figured it was just normal resistance to the compression of the valve springs. I've been thwarted again though, as I was tightening down the valve cover one of the screws snapped. If I have to order on from Sunset Porsche I won't have it until next Friday at the earliest.

 

Turns out I am an idiot. The screw snapped because I thought the torque setting was 15 ft-lbs instead of 7.5. I still wanted to make sure the engine turned over properly so I turned the ignition with the spark plugs and fuel relay out. I didn't get a reading on the oil pressure gauge after about 10 seconds. I don't remember if it comes up even before the engine starts or not until after. Can someone enlighten me?

 

maybe oil pump lost prime. pour oil down the center hole on the oil filter housing.

 

So the gauge should show pressure before the engine even starts?

I replace the oil filter housing seals and put on a new filter so it might just be due to that, but I wanted to be sure. I was just happy that it turned over without incident.