I tried to start my car for the first time in a while yesterday and I had no luck. The engine turned over and sounded normal but it never started. The things I have done since it ran include:

guru stage 1 kit

turbo rebuild

55lb injectors

sfr fuel lines

replace speed and reference sensors(must have put them too low i can hear them scraping the flywheel)

timing/ balance shaft belts and waterpump

clutch

lindsey boost enhancer

What would you think is causing my problem? I have already switched back and forth the speed and reference sensors and checked to make sure the two colored wire on the guru wiring was blue/red not red/blue (not actual colors). I know i have fuel (it leaked out until i tightened the fuel line hose clamps) but im not sure about spark because my timing light is dead.

Thanks I will post more detail later.

 

when cranking is the tach moving? check out the bottom of this <a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=15;t=016272" target="_blank">post</a> in regards to the flywheel sensors...

 

What are you missing?
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. Air

Start with the basics, they will tell you what to look for next.

 

The tach sat at the bottom as I cranked it. Does this mean the sensors are hooked up wrong? I am going out again right now to check if switching them makes any difference. Thanks for the replies.

 

When you installed ther reference sensors, did you put them in the right order?

Christian

 

Christian I put them both ways to make sure that was not the problem. Now I have confirmed that I have no spark. There is no juice coming out of the spark plug wires as I crank the car. From the coil to the distributor reads 12 volts when cranking the car, the same voltage as when the ignition is in the second farthest position. Could my coil have gone bad over the winter? Could the battery be weak? Is this an error installing the guru kit? Any help is appreciated as always...
Mark

 

When you crank the motor do you hear a click click sound? You can check the coil by testing resistance.

Christian

 

I will check that stuff again Christian. Also one more thing I put in since it ran is a high power stereo system which is hooked up directly to the battery. The positive to the amps is running off one of the little treaded things on the side of the battery terminal. Could this affect anything?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by mark944turbo:
<strong>...replace speed and reference sensors(must have put them too low i can hear them scraping the flywheel)...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">If this is the case... you broke them... ..well, the flywheel did. Pull them out and check them. Remember that there are both the same units. In my case ('87 951) one has a spacer. At US$100.00 a pop that is one expensive sensor...

If you find that they are not damage, try switching the plugs, might be that the you switched them when replacing them...

 

Jaime I will pull them up tomorrow. I dont think it matters much if they slide against the flywheel as my old ones were all messed up when I pulled them out and they still worked fine.

My situation at this point is this:

There is 12 volts coming out of the coil to the distributor cap when the ignition is in either the last or the second to last position. (Cranking the engine has no affect on the voltage coming out of it) This happens when the sensors are plugged in either way. The engine will just keep turning over but it never starts, as there is no spark. Right now my guesses are a bad coil, a bad battery (new international), incorrectly installed chips/guru kit wiring, or DME relay? Would the DME relay do this?

And Christian, how do I test resistance? I have a nice electrical tester but no owners manual to go with it. Thanks

 

More questions...

Is 12 volts coming out of the coil normal during cranking the engine? Shouldnt it be much more?

If the tach does not move at all during cranking does that mean some type of sensor problem?

What would cause the coil to not be producing enough juice?

Does this have anything to do w the DME?

 

I would try to look at the DME relay. I had this kind of problem when I did the head job on it and where the relay goes in the box on the other side of it the wire went took forever to track down.

 

The car more then likely will not start, and it will not run correctly unless the sensors are installed with the correct clearance. As I remember it is 0.8mm /- .3 mm. This also can explain the loss of spark. If you get a washer that is this thickness, you can glue it to the bottom of the sensor and mark the sensor position in the bore. Then remove the sensor, take off the washer, and install with it aligned to your mark.

 

Mark - I had a friend with a similar issue as you, and we screwed with his car (in the FREEZING COLD DEAD OF WINTER) for hours. Only explination we came up with was that his fuel pressure (which must be turned up pretty high) was flooding the spark plugs before his (at the time) weak battery could get enough of a spark into his (at the time) worn out plugs. For that day we pumped the fuel out of the cylinders, replaced the plugs, and fired it up. Next day he got a new battery, and he hasn't had problems starting since. Up until that point it was a real PITA to start.

Just my 2 cents worth of similar issues..

 

i think if your tach wont move its cause of the reference sensor in the flywheel. i think, dont quote me on that.