I didn't have a measuring tool with me when I checked the clutch inspection port.

Do you think I need a new clutch yet or not? The friction point is very very high (maybe 1" from the top) in the clutch pedal's travel. I know the instructions say that 34mm+ needs a replacement, but 34mm is about 1.3" and I can't imagine that that distance was 1.3", but then again, I don't remember how big the hole is.

Thanks for the help!!

Also, I stuck my finger in there and I did not see any rubber marbles. Is this a good sign?

 

Is the clutch not working properly? If it works and you have no other reason to pull out the tranny and torque tube, drive it until it it starts to slip or the rubber donut (if so equipped) shreds. Doing a clutch on one of these as preventative maintenance is not typical but hey, if you've got the time and money...

 

Good picture.
Instead of sticking your finger in the hole, take out the starter and fish around there.
You have a 1986 944. In the past 18 months I have replaced a clutch in my 1988 924S 60K and in April this year my 1987 924S 113K--both with OEM rubber disc failure. You are living on borrowed time if your car still has the rubber clutch disc.
Measure the hole opening more carefully. Put a deep socket in the hole that just barely fits. Take it out and measure. You may not have rubber disc failure yet but you are going to be down to your disc rivets soon and you may ruin the flywheel.

The job is DIY if you have a big floor jack and can turn a wrench. Parts? $800 to $1000 for the clutch kit and a few extras as you go along. Shop time is 14 hours and you pay the markup on parts.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

 

I dunno, the clutch release point is so friggin' high--I can't really drive the car the way I want to it seems. I also wanted to take this car to the track at some point and it seems like this issue is going to dash my hopes.

 

Well, I got a quote of about $650 for labor from a reputable shop for the clutch change/flywheel resurfacing and I found this clutch kit for about $507 shipped:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1597372.html

BTW, is that one any good? I'm really not going to use the car for much track use--just maybe once or twice.

I can't do the clutch change myself because I don't have a place to work on it hardcore--just an apartment parking lot (and technically my lease forbids working on my car here).

 

That is really cheap shop labour. Where is that at?

 

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...16979173809362

The Bug Shop in Blacksburg, VA. South Main Auto quoted me over $800, which is still not bad.

 

I've had two S2's (same clutch as an NA) that had clutches that released annoyingly high, and both were supposedly fitted with relatively new clutches. I just lived with it.

-Joel.

 

The clutch on my S2 is very high and if I recall my 87 was as well.

 

What are some things that should be replaced while the clutch is removed? I know on my Miata a good thing to replace was the rear main seal.

 

This is where my estimate for parts $800-$1000 begins:
Pilot bearing
TO guide tube
needle bearings on fork shaft
fork shaft if really pitted by bearings
rear main seal
MUST-new flywheel bolts
Maybe new PP bolts
New transaxle fluid-synthetic GL4 is best
exhaust manifold gaskets
MAYBE a new reference sensor when an old one cracks
Miscellaneous grease, cleaners.
TO BE Continued...

GL
John_AZ

 

New flywheel bolts are not necesary unless you have stripped out the internal 12 point during removal. Same is true for pp bolts...

 

.....I agree there has been debate on whether to replace the fly wheel bolts. I prefer to replace the bolts that are subject to stress and stretch.

amac944, does your clutch master cylinder leak inside the cabin? You should check for drips of brake fluid coming from the boot above the clutch petal. If you do see a wet boot, it is time to replace the clutch master cylinder. It is also suggested to change the clutch slave and lower slave hose at the same time. There is a rebuild kit for the clutch slave~$25 that can be used if the bore does not have pitting.

GL
John_AZ

 

I will take a look when I get back in town tomorrow. I don't believe I have a master cylinder leak inside the cabin, but I could be wrong!

 

My master was leaking and when I checked the slave, it was also leaking . Well did both and a starter that was also in need of replacement. All is well now. Oh and thanks for all the info here at Rennlist.