What is the best adhesive to use for resealing hatch?
06-01-2009, 04:36 PM
#1
Almost Addicted
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What is the best adhesive to use for resealing hatch?
OK, the hatch has gotten to the point of being irritating to listen to- any bump and it makes noise, and my 944 is my DD. Coupled with the fact I will soon have my subs installed, and I will have a bad case of the rattles, so I need to do this soon.
I have done this once before, and the stuff I got turned yellow and was terrible. I need something that is either clear or black that won't turn colors after sitting out in the sun for 10 years, and will hold tight another 20, it can't shrink when curing. So what would the pros use?
I have done this once before, and the stuff I got turned yellow and was terrible. I need something that is either clear or black that won't turn colors after sitting out in the sun for 10 years, and will hold tight another 20, it can't shrink when curing. So what would the pros use?
06-01-2009, 04:40 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
3M Window Weld, 3/8 inch by 15 feet will have about 8-10 inches left over, any old auto parts place sells it... but make sure you place the fram to the glass with the strip in between, and place the TOP of the frame on the edge of the glass, this will prevent gaps when finished... take your time, keep it clean, and be carefull...
06-01-2009, 04:40 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
OK, the hatch has gotten to the point of being irritating to listen to- any bump and it makes noise, and my 944 is my DD. Coupled with the fact I will soon have my subs installed, and I will have a bad case of the rattles, so I need to do this soon.
I have done this once before, and the stuff I got turned yellow and was terrible. I need something that is either clear or black that won't turn colors after sitting out in the sun for 10 years, and will hold tight another 20, it can't shrink when curing. So what would the pros use?
I have done this once before, and the stuff I got turned yellow and was terrible. I need something that is either clear or black that won't turn colors after sitting out in the sun for 10 years, and will hold tight another 20, it can't shrink when curing. So what would the pros use?
06-01-2009, 08:37 PM
#4
Almost Addicted
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Not yet, that stuff is on the list also. I am probably going to order a new seal and some of Sharky's pins this week. There are actually several different sounds coming from back there, you are probably right. A couple months ago I had some boxes loaded in the back, and it occurred to me at I was closing the hatch to stop, but it was too late. A box hit the glass and basically accelerated the separation process. Since then, it has made a lot more noise. It is probably a combination of both.
06-01-2009, 08:38 PM
#5
Almost Addicted
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3M Window Weld, 3/8 inch by 15 feet will have about 8-10 inches left over, any old auto parts place sells it... but make sure you place the fram to the glass with the strip in between, and place the TOP of the frame on the edge of the glass, this will prevent gaps when finished... take your time, keep it clean, and be carefull...
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06-01-2009, 11:01 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Not yet, that stuff is on the list also. I am probably going to order a new seal and some of Sharky's pins this week. There are actually several different sounds coming from back there, you are probably right. A couple months ago I had some boxes loaded in the back, and it occurred to me at I was closing the hatch to stop, but it was too late. A box hit the glass and basically accelerated the separation process. Since then, it has made a lot more noise. It is probably a combination of both.
06-01-2009, 11:07 PM
#9
Geaux Tigers!
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3M Window Weld, 3/8 inch by 15 feet will have about 8-10 inches left over, any old auto parts place sells it... but make sure you place the fram to the glass with the strip in between, and place the TOP of the frame on the edge of the glass, this will prevent gaps when finished... take your time, keep it clean, and be carefull...
http://www.amazon.com/3M-8609-Windo-...3908341&sr=8-2
You used something else?
06-01-2009, 11:32 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
Wait John, you make it sound as if it's a length of tape or something. That's not what I have in my garage waiting for me to get to this job. I bought what the KCWS write up calls for and that was 3M Window Weld Part # 8609 as seen here on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-8609-Windo-...3908341&sr=8-2
You used something else?
http://www.amazon.com/3M-8609-Windo-...3908341&sr=8-2
You used something else?
"Product Details:
Positive Bond on Contact
Unlimited Shelf Life
Clean Interior Sightline
CRL 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer is a tape-type sealer used in the replacement of windshields and backlites on all butyl set car and truck models.
It supports the glass and seals on contact.
CRL 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer forms a water tight seal when used with CRL Butyl Primer CRL1106."
This stuff makes 8609 look like silly putty... stick it where you want it, because it is TAR in 3/8 round form, and takes some super human effort to get off... I'll see how well it holds up to my new hatch struts oh..maybe never, maybe in a few weeks or so...super sticky, super tough, super NASTY, but one hell of a sealant... took me a while to lay my hands on some (had to order it from Advance Auto, they don't cary it local to me) but it is the same crap I used to put on my tail lights (I can run them without hardware..ask me how I know)...
BTW "Window Weld" is a line not a product... I shal see how well I like the ribon... but for me NEW 8609 FAILED...TWICE.... IN THE SAME AREA (top of the glass)
http://www.technologylk.com/product/...tm?src=froogle
just noticed on the MSDS..and this MUST mean it is good s***..
"CANCER WARNING: CONTAINS A CHEMICAL WHICH CAN CAUSE CANCER:
INGREDIENT: CARBON BLACK, CAS# 1333−86−4, CLASS DESCRIPTION: GROUP
2B, REGULATION: IARC. <B> INGREDIENT: QUARTZ SILICA, CAS# 14808−60−7,
CLASS DESCRIPTION: GROUP 1, REGULATION: IARC. <B> INGREDIENT:
QUARTZ SILICA, CAS# 14808−60−7, CLASS DESCRIPTION: KNOWN HUMAN
CARCINOGEN, REGULATION: NTPC."
06-02-2009, 03:30 AM
#13
Nordschleife Master
I'm also planning to reseal my hatch in the near future. I thought it would last the summer, but its clearly not going to.
The thing I didn't like about the 3M 8609 stuff is the hatch had to cure for a few days before it could be put back on the car. My 944 is my DD. I don't have a few days of down time.
With this ribbon you found, is there a long cure time, or will overnight work?
The thing I didn't like about the 3M 8609 stuff is the hatch had to cure for a few days before it could be put back on the car. My 944 is my DD. I don't have a few days of down time.
With this ribbon you found, is there a long cure time, or will overnight work?
06-02-2009, 04:00 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
06-02-2009, 06:32 AM
#15
Nordschleife Master
By placing enough force on the frame to completely delaminate the glass from it... If your glass is even SLIGHTLY delaminated, DON'T replace the struts with NEW or you will become very aware of the delamination and it's affect.... That is what started my SAGA...