xschop

That's not a problem. They wouldn't be as cost efective as machining the Early hub for a larger outer bearing. Like I mentioned an 85.5 set of spindles that have been cryoed will outperform the late spindles in a shear test. period. Another option may be putting on later hubs to the early spidles? JAT
Also the early spindles have shorter strut hole spreadwidths IIRC and I have thought about adapting the late spindle to the early Strut because I built inexpensive custom coilovers from the early struts. The late struts can be machined, but the earlies are easier to do......Hmmmm

m73m95

In my mind the larger bearing isn't so much for strength as it is for heat.

A larger bearing would spin slower due to the increase in diameter. So on a car with more power and higher speeds (turbo cars, and the NA S cars), the larger bearing wouldn't get as hot at those higher speeds. The pre-86 cars just don't go that fast.

I don't think any of us is arguing this from a racing aspect. For racing, the larger spindles are defiantly needed, without a doubt. For "hot rodding the S**t out of it", auto-x, or even a few track days here and there, I don't think there would be a problem with our spindles. None of us will be 180mph on a regular basis.

m73m95

I'm sure finding bearings to fit the outside of the early spindle and the inside of the late hub wouldn't be hard to find...... nice call chop!

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/

xschop

I can source ceramic bearings locally. I am working with a guy on another project and we are doing a ceramic bearing swap because they last 4-5 times as long because of the heat dissipation quality they have.

m73m95

This idea is going to work.... I can feel it!

200mph, here I come!!! (famous last words...)

xschop

M73m95, it's already been discussed that the Early Hub is as strong as the Late hub with plenty alloy to machine it for a larger outer bearing.
I see that you want the early offset. Just take your hub to a machine shop, cut it for the larger bearing, match it with a ceramic type and move on.

xschop

I found a larger outer bearing that can be machined on the outer race to 49.00mm and the Early hub can be done the same way to match.
The stock early bearing is rated at 5400 LBft. The new bearing is rated at 8800 LB ft. I will machine the set of Early hubs that I cryoed and install them

944J

i just had to read more about cryoing after reading this post... interesting...

http://www.nitrofreeze.com/cryogenic...torsports.html

edit and more:
http://www.ws6.com/cryo.htm

xschop

I found that the ball joint positions on the control arms sit forward of the X-member centerline....
I sent out my Early alloy arms (85.5) to get coordinates from a CMM. I double checked after a hard set-up of the arm on a large lathe with an attached fixed marking block.....and sure 'nuff....


Got out my coordinates from the RX7 arm to decipher an adapter bracket with 944 Early and Late offset selection positioning......


A few hours of hand programming and CNC set-up....


Check them against the brand new 944 Early replaceable ball joints....


Cold-rolled steel with a tensile strength of 54,000 PSi should be major overkill. No more broken control arms with the big sways.


I designed the mod for normal cars (no X-member drop, Early or Late Offset)


OR.....V8 swaps with 1" X-member drop or lowering the stock 944 motor CG by 1".....Just unbolt the adapter and mount on top....


The RX7 alloy arm is much stronger than the cast 944 alloy and you can buy Polyurethane ( I'm using Graphite Impregnated PU) or Delrin right off the shelf at 75 Bucks for the whole set


I am finishing the programming for the custom billet rear control arm bushing adapter that utilizes the Beefier RX7 bushing, but narrower 944 bolt hole spreadwidth. It is precision machined to hold the cast semi-circular Polyurethane or machined Delrin inserts with the factory internal ribbed grooves....

xschop

The last pic shows the 1-off adapter I made for my set-up that takes out the 5mm difference due to the fact the Lexus 430 caliper/Boxster S rotor swap added 5mm to the equation

Lemming

Cool. What about a mounting point for sway bars?

xschop

I'm working on a preload adjustable heim joint to stock 944 sway bar set-up.
I will mock-up the sway bar this weekend and use the 944 sway link and mod it to accept a female heim joint. The fact that it attaches to the steel adapter in between the 12mm mounting bolts will also eliminate the stress fracture and metal fatigue that is the demise of cast 944 arms when larger sway bars are used and tracked

944J

cool stuff

xschop

I Can finally check this one off the list....









No more extended ball-joint pins to deal with or worry about. Simply unbolt the adapter bracket and move to the top. I made even thicker spacers and dropped my X-member and engine 1.25"

modenas

that is sick, i like the setup and also we should have a 1 inch drop if possible. and do we have it for early cars that would like a late offset? and last but least, can we still run the big brake setup?