I am not a mechanic but I have been able to change oil and brakes on all my other cars. I took a front wheel off to look at the brakes and they look different than my other cars caliper configuration.

Other cars = chevy truck, volvo 940, jetta and ford ranger.

Please help with the steps. I did search this forum and went to paragon tech sessions but it is too high level. I need some details cleared up.

1. Do I have to unbolt the 2 large caliper bolts to change pads or can I just pull the pins?

2. Do you have to change the sensor every time or can it be reused?

Thanks in advance,

 

It's been ~4 years since I messed with the single-piston sliding-caliper brakes on an na car, but from memory:

Remove the retaining clips from the pins.

Remove the pins.

Pry the pads back to compress the piston.

Remove pads.

Clean the pins and slide area on the caliper frame; lube both with a little anti-seize or hi-temp grease.

Reassemble with new pads.

Check for firm pedal _before_ driving (don't ask!).

The sensors can be re-used, but old ones tend to be brittle & fall apart. Better to use new on the front, used ones on the back, assuming youy're doing all four wheels.

Jim, "Entropy never sleeps; do y'all?"

 

Thanks Jim...

So I am assuming that the only time you need to remove the two large caliper bolts is when you are taking off the rotor?

 

You only have to remove the bolts when changing the rotors. Although, some have recommended that it is easire to do the pad change with the calipers off.
When you go to put the new pads in, you really have to get that piston all the way compressed. It is a tight fit.

 

Tight fit is actually an understatement. Also make sure you get the right pads the first time. Removing the caliper is really not that difficult and it makes the job much easer. If you remove the caliper compressing the piston is a synch because the break line is removed and there is nothing to prevent the piston from moving to it’s most outer position. Much easer and takes the guess work out of reinstallation. The pad will sit in the caliper in its furthest position with no trouble. Just make sure to properly bleed you breaks before driving again.

Just my .02
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

 

Tight fit is actually an understatement. Also make sure you get the right pads the first time. Removing the caliper is really not that difficult and it makes the job much easer. If you remove the caliper compressing the piston is a synch because the break line is removed and there is nothing to prevent the piston from moving to it’s most outer position. Much easer and takes the guess work out of reinstallation. The pad will sit in the caliper in its furthest position with no trouble. Just make sure to properly bleed you breaks before driving again.

Just my .02
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

 

Alternative method...leave the calipers attached, but open up the cap on the brake fluid reservoir. This will allow fluid to flow back into the reservoir without any back-pressure, and the pistons can be pushed back easier. Most of the time they will stay in position.

Be careful, you may have to remove some fluid before you start, or you might spill fluid out of the reservoir.

Good Luck

 

Leave the caliper attached to the lines, just remove it from its mount. Open the bleed screw when you compress the piston. That should let you get the piston all the way back to get the pads in.