wheel bearing repack?
05-27-2009, 11:07 PM
#2
Nordschleife Master
05-27-2009, 11:10 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
There's not really any reason to replace them if they're smooth, and no heat stress (Blue spots).
Grease them with some high dollar synthetic grease every time you do the brakes, and you'll have no trouble.
Have you ever packed grease in a bearing before? Its very easy, but you need to do it right to avoid any problems.
Grease them with some high dollar synthetic grease every time you do the brakes, and you'll have no trouble.
Have you ever packed grease in a bearing before? Its very easy, but you need to do it right to avoid any problems.
05-27-2009, 11:11 PM
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
had the car on the lift and thees play in both fronts. do you have a link for the parts i'll need? do the fronts use inner and outter, or just one or the other?
05-27-2009, 11:14 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
There's not really any reason to replace them if they're smooth, and no heat stress (Blue spots).
Grease them with some high dollar synthetic grease every time you do the brakes, and you'll have no trouble.
Have you ever packed grease in a bearing before? Its very easy, but you need to do it right to avoid any problems.
Grease them with some high dollar synthetic grease every time you do the brakes, and you'll have no trouble.
Have you ever packed grease in a bearing before? Its very easy, but you need to do it right to avoid any problems.
theres no noise from the bearings so i know they arnt far gon, just when i did the "shake" test while the car was in the air, there was some play....i think a repack is all i'll need then if that doesnt work i'll buy parts
05-28-2009, 12:27 AM
#6
Nordschleife Master
What year?
-86 $40
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...key_1140637882
87+ $80
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...esteering-9442
just add grease and rubber gloves and you are done...
-86 $40
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...key_1140637882
87+ $80
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...esteering-9442
just add grease and rubber gloves and you are done...
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05-28-2009, 03:00 AM
#8
Nordschleife Master
+1 on the struts moving at full extention, and also having old work out grease will make things loose.
After you pack them and reassemble everything, make sure you seat the bearings (Something Clarks Garage doesn't have you do). Tighten the hub nut/clamp thing finger tight, then with some channel locks, tighten the nut with a good hard whack (equal to about 35-40ish ft lbs... its not an exact thing). Then loosen the nut, and re-tighten it just finger tight. Tighten the lock screw, and pound on the hub cap.... drink beer.
I really think your bearings are fine. They're pretty sturdy. Unless they went completely dry, got flooded with water (Deep puddles), or got really hot (fast driving with 25 year old grease) then they should just need repacked.
After you pack them and reassemble everything, make sure you seat the bearings (Something Clarks Garage doesn't have you do). Tighten the hub nut/clamp thing finger tight, then with some channel locks, tighten the nut with a good hard whack (equal to about 35-40ish ft lbs... its not an exact thing). Then loosen the nut, and re-tighten it just finger tight. Tighten the lock screw, and pound on the hub cap.... drink beer.
I really think your bearings are fine. They're pretty sturdy. Unless they went completely dry, got flooded with water (Deep puddles), or got really hot (fast driving with 25 year old grease) then they should just need repacked.
05-28-2009, 11:00 PM
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
^^ i will
as for checking while the car is down....
how? ive always either jacked the car up or had it lifted and checked the wheel to see if theres any play. When I did this , I didnt notice any movement what-so ever in any other suspension parts. I even had someone more experienced double check me and double check that it wasnt a ball joint or something esle. we both agree its a bearing. So be looking out for the DIY 
as for checking while the car is down....
how? ive always either jacked the car up or had it lifted and checked the wheel to see if theres any play. When I did this , I didnt notice any movement what-so ever in any other suspension parts. I even had someone more experienced double check me and double check that it wasnt a ball joint or something esle. we both agree its a bearing. So be looking out for the DIY
05-28-2009, 11:58 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
You have to have the car raised, but suspension loaded.
I put a jackstand under the sway bar mount on the control arm. That way the strut is loaded, but the wheel is off the ground so you can wiggle it. A tiny bit of movement is alright (think width of a hair), but anything over that is to much.
I don't have pics, but I can give a step by step.
1. raise car, and place on 4 jack stands. I use the shock mounts on the back (not the actual shocks, but the mounts) and the sway mounts on the control arms in the front.
2. remove front wheels
3. remove brake caliper and support it with wire, or on the front tire (placed under the car) Just don't let the hose get tight
4. remove the hub cover with a chisel and hammer. Lightly tap the outside edge to free it from the hub.
5. loosen the lock bolt with an allen wrench. Then remove the hub nut.
6. take off the hub/brake rotor.
7. support the hub, face up on a couple 2/4's. with either a brass punch or a cut off broom handle, lightly tap out the inner bearing/seal from the outside. DO NOT use a steel punch or you'll be buying a new bearing.
8. clean the bearings with soap and water in the kitchen sink. Its a ton cheaper than cans of brake cleaner, and dish soap is designed to remove grease. Works very well. IF you do use brake cleaner, you still want to rinse the bearing in water because any left over brake cleaner will remove all the new grease from your bearings as you drive... Then dry the bearings with a lint free towel, or compressed air. DO NOT let the bearing free spin while using compressed air. Not only will you be buying a new bearing, but you'll be having the doctor remove bearing shards from your eyes.
9. repack the bearings with good quality synthetic wheel bearing grease. Don't skimp on the grease. make sure the bearing is packed in to every little nook and cranny.
10. turn over the hub/rotor so its face down. place the inner bearing inside the hub. Using a hammer (a dead blow hammer is best for this) lightly tap in the new seal, trying to keep it going in as straight as possible. Tap it in until its flush with the hub.
11. place the hub back on the spindle being extra carefull not to scratch the new seal on the threads on the spindle.
12. put on the outer bearing, washer, and hub nut.
13. tighten the nut finger tight, then using channel locks tighten the nut with a good firm slap (should be around 35-40 ft lbs, but its not exact). then loosen the nut, and re-tighten finger tight.
14. put the hub cap back on.... and the rest is the opposite of disassembly....
did I miss anything?
9.
I put a jackstand under the sway bar mount on the control arm. That way the strut is loaded, but the wheel is off the ground so you can wiggle it. A tiny bit of movement is alright (think width of a hair), but anything over that is to much.
I don't have pics, but I can give a step by step.
1. raise car, and place on 4 jack stands. I use the shock mounts on the back (not the actual shocks, but the mounts) and the sway mounts on the control arms in the front.
2. remove front wheels
3. remove brake caliper and support it with wire, or on the front tire (placed under the car) Just don't let the hose get tight
4. remove the hub cover with a chisel and hammer. Lightly tap the outside edge to free it from the hub.
5. loosen the lock bolt with an allen wrench. Then remove the hub nut.
6. take off the hub/brake rotor.
7. support the hub, face up on a couple 2/4's. with either a brass punch or a cut off broom handle, lightly tap out the inner bearing/seal from the outside. DO NOT use a steel punch or you'll be buying a new bearing.
8. clean the bearings with soap and water in the kitchen sink. Its a ton cheaper than cans of brake cleaner, and dish soap is designed to remove grease. Works very well. IF you do use brake cleaner, you still want to rinse the bearing in water because any left over brake cleaner will remove all the new grease from your bearings as you drive... Then dry the bearings with a lint free towel, or compressed air. DO NOT let the bearing free spin while using compressed air. Not only will you be buying a new bearing, but you'll be having the doctor remove bearing shards from your eyes.
9. repack the bearings with good quality synthetic wheel bearing grease. Don't skimp on the grease. make sure the bearing is packed in to every little nook and cranny.
10. turn over the hub/rotor so its face down. place the inner bearing inside the hub. Using a hammer (a dead blow hammer is best for this) lightly tap in the new seal, trying to keep it going in as straight as possible. Tap it in until its flush with the hub.
11. place the hub back on the spindle being extra carefull not to scratch the new seal on the threads on the spindle.
12. put on the outer bearing, washer, and hub nut.
13. tighten the nut finger tight, then using channel locks tighten the nut with a good firm slap (should be around 35-40 ft lbs, but its not exact). then loosen the nut, and re-tighten finger tight.
14. put the hub cap back on.... and the rest is the opposite of disassembly....
did I miss anything?
9.
Last edited by m73m95; 05-29-2009 at 12:21 AM.
05-29-2009, 04:51 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
You have to have the car raised, but suspension loaded.
I put a jackstand under the sway bar mount on the control arm. That way the strut is loaded, but the wheel is off the ground so you can wiggle it. A tiny bit of movement is alright (think width of a hair), but anything over that is to much.
I don't have pics, but I can give a step by step.
1. raise car, and place on 4 jack stands. I use the shock mounts on the back (not the actual shocks, but the mounts) and the sway mounts on the control arms in the front.
2. remove front wheels
3. remove brake caliper and support it with wire, or on the front tire (placed under the car) Just don't let the hose get tight
4. remove the hub cover with a chisel and hammer. Lightly tap the outside edge to free it from the hub.
5. loosen the lock bolt with an allen wrench. Then remove the hub nut.
6. take off the hub/brake rotor.
7. support the hub, face up on a couple 2/4's. with either a brass punch or a cut off broom handle, lightly tap out the inner bearing/seal from the outside. DO NOT use a steel punch or you'll be buying a new bearing.
8. clean the bearings with soap and water in the kitchen sink. Its a ton cheaper than cans of brake cleaner, and dish soap is designed to remove grease. Works very well. IF you do use brake cleaner, you still want to rinse the bearing in water because any left over brake cleaner will remove all the new grease from your bearings as you drive... Then dry the bearings with a lint free towel, or compressed air. DO NOT let the bearing free spin while using compressed air. Not only will you be buying a new bearing, but you'll be having the doctor remove bearing shards from your eyes.
9. repack the bearings with good quality synthetic wheel bearing grease. Don't skimp on the grease. make sure the bearing is packed in to every little nook and cranny.
10. turn over the hub/rotor so its face down. place the inner bearing inside the hub. Using a hammer (a dead blow hammer is best for this) lightly tap in the new seal, trying to keep it going in as straight as possible. Tap it in until its flush with the hub.
11. place the hub back on the spindle being extra carefull not to scratch the new seal on the threads on the spindle.
12. put on the outer bearing, washer, and hub nut.
13. tighten the nut finger tight, then using channel locks tighten the nut with a good firm slap (should be around 35-40 ft lbs, but its not exact). then loosen the nut, and re-tighten finger tight.
14. put the hub cap back on.... and the rest is the opposite of disassembly....
did I miss anything?
9.
I put a jackstand under the sway bar mount on the control arm. That way the strut is loaded, but the wheel is off the ground so you can wiggle it. A tiny bit of movement is alright (think width of a hair), but anything over that is to much.
I don't have pics, but I can give a step by step.
1. raise car, and place on 4 jack stands. I use the shock mounts on the back (not the actual shocks, but the mounts) and the sway mounts on the control arms in the front.
2. remove front wheels
3. remove brake caliper and support it with wire, or on the front tire (placed under the car) Just don't let the hose get tight
4. remove the hub cover with a chisel and hammer. Lightly tap the outside edge to free it from the hub.
5. loosen the lock bolt with an allen wrench. Then remove the hub nut.
6. take off the hub/brake rotor.
7. support the hub, face up on a couple 2/4's. with either a brass punch or a cut off broom handle, lightly tap out the inner bearing/seal from the outside. DO NOT use a steel punch or you'll be buying a new bearing.
8. clean the bearings with soap and water in the kitchen sink. Its a ton cheaper than cans of brake cleaner, and dish soap is designed to remove grease. Works very well. IF you do use brake cleaner, you still want to rinse the bearing in water because any left over brake cleaner will remove all the new grease from your bearings as you drive... Then dry the bearings with a lint free towel, or compressed air. DO NOT let the bearing free spin while using compressed air. Not only will you be buying a new bearing, but you'll be having the doctor remove bearing shards from your eyes.
9. repack the bearings with good quality synthetic wheel bearing grease. Don't skimp on the grease. make sure the bearing is packed in to every little nook and cranny.
10. turn over the hub/rotor so its face down. place the inner bearing inside the hub. Using a hammer (a dead blow hammer is best for this) lightly tap in the new seal, trying to keep it going in as straight as possible. Tap it in until its flush with the hub.
11. place the hub back on the spindle being extra carefull not to scratch the new seal on the threads on the spindle.
12. put on the outer bearing, washer, and hub nut.
13. tighten the nut finger tight, then using channel locks tighten the nut with a good firm slap (should be around 35-40 ft lbs, but its not exact). then loosen the nut, and re-tighten finger tight.
14. put the hub cap back on.... and the rest is the opposite of disassembly....
did I miss anything?
9.
05-29-2009, 09:48 AM
#13
Race Car
Its important to remember that there is some perscribed "play" in the bearings. The factory shop manual says that you should be able to move the washer behind the lock nut with only little resistance. The hubs on our cars are aluminum and need a little room to expand when reaching opperating temp. In actuallity, they bearing slop will feel excesive when it is right on.
05-29-2009, 10:58 AM
#14
Rennlist Member
I've done this on my 83 but never on the later cars, and indeed the thrust washer had to be loose enough to move freely per the Haynes Manual. Thanks for the reminder!
05-29-2009, 11:29 AM
#15
well on my 83, the thrust washer is keyed, so it can't really spin that much. when i put it back on last nite, i just finger tighted it after seating it as described above.