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DIY Replacing Brake Rotors & Pads w/ Pics

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Old 04-14-2009, 03:51 PM
  #31  
azbanks
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Good write-up but we do have to deduct 5 points for leaving the calipers dirty.
Old 04-15-2009, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by VOoDOoGTX
are you kidding. The reason there isnt a do it yourself is because a brake job is like changing your oil, you dont need a DIY.

wheel off, pull a clip, change pads, change rotors wheel on.
Man, there's always one, isn't there? Hey Voodoo, next time you go trying to trash somebody's efforts, why don't you mix in a few capital letters, apostrophes, question marks, and complete sentences. Since we've now established that you're a mechanical genius, maybe we could write up a DIY that would be useful to you: DIY Syntax and Punctuation.

Luis, thanks for the post. The photos are awesome, and for those who haven't done the procedure before, your write-up is great. That's a great tip about using the waterpumps to retract the pistons, and I had no idea that there is supposed to be a "jumper sensor" from one pad to the other. My S2 just has the inner sensors - no doubt a "PO Delete" issue. Thanks!
Old 04-15-2009, 01:13 PM
  #33  
Luis de Prat
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Originally Posted by harrisonrick
I'll bet your wife was happy with you using the oven for this project!
Well, it definitely took some convincing!
Old 04-15-2009, 09:28 PM
  #34  
Smoker324
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Originally Posted by harrisonrick
I'll bet your wife was happy with you using the oven for this project!
Well, it definitely took some convincing!
Come on Luis -- you amateur -- nobody needs to know what happens in the oven -- what happens in the oven stays in the oven. Jeez.

-Dan C.
Old 04-16-2009, 08:50 AM
  #35  
Luis de Prat
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Originally Posted by Smoker324
Come on Luis -- you amateur -- nobody needs to know what happens in the oven -- what happens in the oven stays in the oven. Jeez.

-Dan C.
LOL. No seriously, I told her the paint was already dry so "baking" it would leave no residue. Anyway, it was cool to see the oven at a bazillion degrees and the paint not developing any bubbles.
Old 04-16-2009, 10:06 AM
  #36  
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Nice write-up! Thanks!
Old 04-16-2009, 12:21 PM
  #37  
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Great pictures and nice writeup! I'm sure it will be very useful.

My comments:

The brake fluid in the calipers is the worst, I always flush that out and do not force it back upstream. I bleed the inboard and then the outboard. I actually get the nasty fluid out before messing with the calipers at all.

Lubing the caliper edges is important, or at least making sure they slide freely (I have had to grid a little off the edges of some pads) and I always use brake quiet.

Massive cleaning of new brake rotors is required to get any anti-rust coating off of them before use. I use brake cleaner and clean rags. Also there is a left and a right rotor and people often get them on backwards. When looking at the rotor, the vanes above the hub should lean backwards (vanes inside, not slots or holes.) They throw air out from the hub, not scoop it in towards the hub.

As an aside, when I do the rears I always carefully clean and silicone my CV boots at this time.

Thanks again,
-Joel.
Old 04-16-2009, 12:58 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Great pictures and nice writeup! I'm sure it will be very useful.
Thanks, that was the intent here.

Originally Posted by Jfrahm
Also there is a left and a right rotor and people often get them on backwards. When looking at the rotor, the vanes above the hub should lean backwards (vanes inside, not slots or holes.) They throw air out from the hub, not scoop it in towards the hub.
Not on regular 951/S2 brakes. These rotors were symmetrical. It's the 928S4/M030 front brakes that are side specific, (I just put a pair on my 951) but they come marked "L" and "R."

Originally Posted by Jfrahm
As an aside, when I do the rears I always carefully clean and silicone my CV boots at this time.
Good tip. I'll make a note to do this when the time comes to replace the rears.

Regards.



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