DIY Replacing Brake Rotors & Pads w/ Pics
#32
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Boise, Idaho
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Luis, thanks for the post. The photos are awesome, and for those who haven't done the procedure before, your write-up is great. That's a great tip about using the waterpumps to retract the pistons, and I had no idea that there is supposed to be a "jumper sensor" from one pad to the other. My S2 just has the inner sensors - no doubt a "PO Delete" issue. Thanks!
#33
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#34
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Originally Posted by harrisonrick
I'll bet your wife was happy with you using the oven for this project!
I'll bet your wife was happy with you using the oven for this project!
Well, it definitely took some convincing!
-Dan C.
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#37
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Great pictures and nice writeup! I'm sure it will be very useful.
My comments:
The brake fluid in the calipers is the worst, I always flush that out and do not force it back upstream. I bleed the inboard and then the outboard. I actually get the nasty fluid out before messing with the calipers at all.
Lubing the caliper edges is important, or at least making sure they slide freely (I have had to grid a little off the edges of some pads) and I always use brake quiet.
Massive cleaning of new brake rotors is required to get any anti-rust coating off of them before use. I use brake cleaner and clean rags. Also there is a left and a right rotor and people often get them on backwards. When looking at the rotor, the vanes above the hub should lean backwards (vanes inside, not slots or holes.) They throw air out from the hub, not scoop it in towards the hub.
As an aside, when I do the rears I always carefully clean and silicone my CV boots at this time.
Thanks again,
-Joel.
My comments:
The brake fluid in the calipers is the worst, I always flush that out and do not force it back upstream. I bleed the inboard and then the outboard. I actually get the nasty fluid out before messing with the calipers at all.
Lubing the caliper edges is important, or at least making sure they slide freely (I have had to grid a little off the edges of some pads) and I always use brake quiet.
Massive cleaning of new brake rotors is required to get any anti-rust coating off of them before use. I use brake cleaner and clean rags. Also there is a left and a right rotor and people often get them on backwards. When looking at the rotor, the vanes above the hub should lean backwards (vanes inside, not slots or holes.) They throw air out from the hub, not scoop it in towards the hub.
As an aside, when I do the rears I always carefully clean and silicone my CV boots at this time.
Thanks again,
-Joel.
#38
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Thanks, that was the intent here.
Not on regular 951/S2 brakes. These rotors were symmetrical. It's the 928S4/M030 front brakes that are side specific, (I just put a pair on my 951) but they come marked "L" and "R."
Good tip. I'll make a note to do this when the time comes to replace the rears.
Regards.
Regards.