Kburke

There is only one thing that I see that is wrong with these pictures and that is the 12 point socket for a 6 point bolt. Those can strip bolts like no other.

Luis de Prat

Good observation. For some reason I was under the impression that 12 point sockets were less prone to stripping. I guess I need to buy a regular 19" socket. Thanks!

Olli Snellman

Nice write up Luis,
we have here better things to do with hockey pucks though. How on earth you have managed to find them in Spain
Only thing which concerns me with your brake job is those damn sliding plates. Did you pay attention on them? All old school Brembos i have seen have more or less issues with them.

jstand22

Nice work Luis...it's nice solid write-ups and pictures like this that make Rennlist the best forum for 944's. Thanks for taking the time.

harrisonrick

I'll bet your wife was happy with you using the oven for this project!

fbgh2o

Well done Luis!

I now feel confident in doing mine.

porshhhh951

Try and remember what this place is about.


Nice write up Luis! I'm sure many will benefit from it.

TrackDays247.com

Nice writeup, that is exactly how I'd do it ;-)

Nice tip on pushing the psitons back in

potent951turbo

+1

DarylJ

Most of us use 12 point. That's what's commonly sold. It's easy to get on a bolt, and normally that's all you need.

If you have to push "too hard" (too hard being by experience), you need to go to the 6 pointers. I don't even have 6-point hand sockets....just the regular 12-pointers, and a set of air tool sockets (which are always 6 point, and very thick).

Fishey

I only have a few concerns...

1. Hub cleaning?
A unclean hub can lead to a warped rotor
2. Caliper Cleaning?
A unclean Caliper can lead to noise and even a warped rotor
3. Caliper Lubrication at pad contact points?
Again for noise
4. DBQ? (Disk Brake Quiet)
And noise concerns again

Mike C.

I've used 12 points on the crankshaft bolt and stub axle nuts... If they break it's a trip to the local Sears to get a free replacement.. but no problems in 20 years of wrenching on the 944..

ArcticSteve

Nice write up and great pics.

Everyone has their own preferences. I for one avoid 12 points. Unless it's an emergency, I do not force break fluid back into the lines. I crack the caliper bleeder first and then push the pistons back.

Luis de Prat

If you use the specified adhesive brake dampeners and normal "street" pads, there should be absolutely no noise coming from the brakes at all.

On calipers that use noise dampeners, the FSM calls for coating the edges of the pads with some moly grease, so I probably should edit this in the DIY. However, when you slide the new pads into the caliper it's easy to get grease on the new dampeners which can keep these from adhering to the backs of the pads and then you'll really have a noise problem, which is why I left the grease part out entirely.

As for cleaning the caliper, well, these are 19 years old and probably should be rebuilt anyway, but so far they're braking really well so I'm leaving them be for now, as this is strictly a street driven car that my father takes to work and back at well under the speed limit.

The intent here was essentially to show how to replace rotors and pads. Thanks for your comments!

Tom R.

Than you Luis. Unlike dodoo many here including myself appreciate the time and effort you put into this writeup.

next time you are near denver, make it a point stop by. your visit will probably coincide with my brake changing party/bbq!

i plan on doing the same job on my BMW with 52k in a few months, and having a writeup will help me not miss a step in the re assembly process.