Alignment specs?
04-10-2009, 09:53 AM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Alignment specs?
The "stock" specs are easy to find. The alignment dudes machine tells him the "correct" settings. (Not that he can get anywhere close to those settings, but he tries lol)
The race settings are easily found by searching....
How about a good "street performance" setup? I want a little more aggressive setup than stock, but still good tire life. I've seen a few people mention they used "aggressive street" setup, but they never said what it was.
Anyone care to share their experiences and notes they give to "the dude"?
The race settings are easily found by searching....
How about a good "street performance" setup? I want a little more aggressive setup than stock, but still good tire life. I've seen a few people mention they used "aggressive street" setup, but they never said what it was.
Anyone care to share their experiences and notes they give to "the dude"?
04-10-2009, 10:44 AM
#2
Drifting
I'm no expert, but this is my understanding:
1) Max out caster in all cases, as long as it's even left & right
2) More camber = more aggressive. Race alignments typically like 2-3* camber, stock is closer to 1* (IIRC).
3) More front toe out = more tire wear, but better steering response
4) More rear toe in = more tire wear, but better braking stability
5) Camber alone doesn't wear tires out, camber combined with toe does
Given the above, I created a kind of 'custom' alignment by balancing what I want for camber with what I want for tire wear. Up front I have a lot of camber (2* or 2.5*, I forget) with zero toe. In the rear I have slightly less camber (1.5* I think) with a slight toe IN (.10 total toe in I think). I've done nearly 20k miles at that setup, and have had very even and reasonable tire wear rates.
FWIW, as my 'useage' has gone to a more track bias, I'm planning on adding more front camber and adjusting the toe values for more performance in my next alignment.
1) Max out caster in all cases, as long as it's even left & right
2) More camber = more aggressive. Race alignments typically like 2-3* camber, stock is closer to 1* (IIRC).
3) More front toe out = more tire wear, but better steering response
4) More rear toe in = more tire wear, but better braking stability
5) Camber alone doesn't wear tires out, camber combined with toe does
Given the above, I created a kind of 'custom' alignment by balancing what I want for camber with what I want for tire wear. Up front I have a lot of camber (2* or 2.5*, I forget) with zero toe. In the rear I have slightly less camber (1.5* I think) with a slight toe IN (.10 total toe in I think). I've done nearly 20k miles at that setup, and have had very even and reasonable tire wear rates.
FWIW, as my 'useage' has gone to a more track bias, I'm planning on adding more front camber and adjusting the toe values for more performance in my next alignment.
04-10-2009, 10:59 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
I run -2 degrees front and around -1.5 degrees rear camber. -2 is the max you can get with the stock springs and top mounts, and you have to lever the struts to get -2, otherwise you will only get -1.5. I run close to zero toe front and rear. I use the car more on the track than on the street, and I run 17 inch Falken RT615s. Turn in is very good and I prefer this setting on the street than the stock setting. How your car handles will also depend on your tyre choice.
The car does tramline quite a bit on the street on uneven surfaces. I also found I had to adjust the caster by trial and error to get the car to track straight - a very small change to one wheel would cause the steering to pull.
The car does tramline quite a bit on the street on uneven surfaces. I also found I had to adjust the caster by trial and error to get the car to track straight - a very small change to one wheel would cause the steering to pull.
