schwank

OK so last night I torqued the head bolts down using the 3 step sequence to seat the gasket and stretch the new studs a bit. Tomorrow I need to loosen them up and apply the proper 20-90deg-90deg torque.

I have a 1/2" dial angle gauge but how the heck does it work? Do I use a breaker bar, ratchet, or a torque wrench set to a certain torque? I guess I don't really see how the thing works. It came with no instructions whatsoever. Thanks for the assistance.

GO SPARTANS!!!!

Andy1212

I am only guessing, but usually you use a torque wrench to torque to the initial torque, and then use the gauge to measure the specified degrees.

schwank

Well yeah but it does not appear to be spring loaded or anything. So do I somehow just judge the reference points based on the gauge against something on the motor? I can't see how that would be more accurate than a torque wrench so there is something I am missing.

schwank

Here are a couple pics of it. No clue what the little thumb wheel does.

FRporscheman

Use anything you want, breaker bar, torque wrench, etc.

There should be another part that comes with it - like an L-shaped rod? The rod is to stay stationary (wedge it against something) while you turn the wrench, and that turns the gauge reading.

schwank

PERFECT Arash, thanks!

Looks like a hex key will do just what I needed. Maybe that's what it was in the bargain bin for $2.

Wipeout

Bri Bro

Why do you want to do the 3 step process again? You do it once then you can check the final torque after running the engine. Most of the time the step method doesn't need to be retorqued

marky522

For the torque angle, an option for 90 then 90 is just use a sharpie and mark the head. Most of the suspension stuff on the newer cars is torque angle, and i wasnt smart enough when i bought my snap on torque wrenches to spring for one with torque angle built in.

Mark

KuHL 951

I've used the TA gauge, didn't like it, and went back to just a visual reference against something square and then click my 24" wrench back until lined up against that point. A 90 deg. pull is easy to guesstimate. Another thing you might do is mark the studs with a paint pen reference line, especially if new studs. That final pull often will turn the stud making the 90 degree off a bit. New studs, especially ARP and Racewear, are set at a specified deck height, that makes it possible to turn further under heavy torquing. That's probably why the factory studs had Loctite on them.

schwank

I am using new factory studs with red lock-tite at 73mm above the deck. Heights all look good when torqued.

Brian, the reason I am doing it twice is becuase after they are done the first time the new studs will likely stretch and alter the torque. So you break them loose and reset them again. I certainly have no desire to re-do them AFTER running the motor as that would require me to break down the whole top end again. At least the 'do it twice' method is what I have read here on the list.

Thanks guys.

schwank

Well the job is done but that torque angle gauge is useless. What a PITA. From here on out I'll use manual guesstimation, or better, a normal torque wrench. I have no clue how that can be more accurate than a torque wrench.

FRporscheman

Hmm cool information! I don't have a torque angle gauge, I just have a piece of cardboard with a 60* and 90* drawn on it, heheh. I hate torque angles though and prefer torquing.