Well I've had my '87 944 NA for a year now...have put 16,000 miles on it...mostly highway at 70-90 mph. I did the full tune-up when I got it (plugs,wires,cap,rotor,filters etc). Is it time to do the plugs/rotor/cap again? or am I wasting my time/money? I have noticed a touch of 'surginess' on acceleration of late...could that simply mean it's time for the tune-up or perhaps a sign of other work? Perhaps injectors??

thanks!

Steve

 

I don't think you need to replace the cap/rotor/wires every year. Have you replaced the air filter?? If it's paper, I would get yourself a K&N OEM replacement. May be a cure for the surges you are getting...mine improved my idle and smoothed out the acceleration.

My .02

 

16,000 miles, Plugs and filters. over due. IMHO. cap and rotor should be ok. retension of belts if you did not do that previously..when bought..

 

Yea, already have the K&N...I was planning on cleaning it. The Pollen here in New England has been brutal for the past month!! The wires were replaced last year...and I didn't plan on doing anything with those for quite some time...I did the Bosche set...and they were EXPENSIVE!

I was thinking the plugs/cap/rotor might be a bit fried from that many miles of high speed driving. Perhaps I'll just do the filters and not worry!! How many miles are people getting out of the plugs/cap/rotors on their 944's??

Of course the reason I'm asking is that the 'Boss' gave approval for me to do car work for Fathers Day!!!

8^)

 

OEM cap, rotor, & plug wires should last 50-75K or longer. Cheap replacements, maybe half that. Do the filter & plugs. Look for cracked vacuum lines, maybe do a visual check of the plug wires (hood up at night, use a small water sprayer pump bottle like a Windex bottle; mist the wires lightly, look for arcing).

Inspect the inside of the distributor cap for carbon traces between terminals & wipe clean. Scuff the crud off of the end contact on the rotor with fine sandpaper (don't sand it down).

Jim, "Drive on!"

 

Okay! Plugs, Gas Filter, clean the K&N, visual on the vacuum lines. It'll be due for oil & filter as well (every 5K) so I'll do that as well.
Yea I've got some nice 800 grit paper for polishing the rotor tip...it's nice to not have to replace it ($42!) and the cap ($35!).

I just had the whole timing belt & water pump service done a few weeks ago (another thread on that!!) so I think I need a few more weeks before checking the tension of the belts.

Cheers!

Steve

 

Steve - since you just bought a new cap last year:
What brand / type did you go for? I just put new ignition wires and plugs in and need the cap. I haven't purchased one yet because I didn't want to get the wrong type - and I know nothing about them.

I see Paragon has one for $55 and Pelican has one for $40 - both claim they're bosch... what's up?
Thank in advace for your input.

 

Steve, I have an '87 NA too with (coincidentally) just about 16,000 miles since I got it in April, 2001! I had all the same work done that you said you had done along with T-Belt, waterpump, etc.

I already put in the OEM replacement K&N. I can't say I noticed that much difference. I've also put in a throttle cam. But I too notice a little tendency to "stumble" when cold. It seems to idle a little too slowly too. Not bad, just "stumbly". By the first signal light it calms right down and idles smoothly. Curious to see how it reacts to getting my AC fixed when I pick it up tonight!
Anyway, this stumbling wasn't happening before. I have also been thinking about having the injectors professionally cleaned and balanced. There is a place out here in SoCal that does it pretty affordably - $25 each unless they need major work. But I'm not sure I understand your problem? What is surging on acceleration? It's not missing? I have also been thinking about 8.5mm wires and the MSD 6A ignition/Blaster II coil setup that Skip raves about for improved low end torque on these NA's. Skip knows his stuff but he LOVES his throttle cam and I felt little diff with it or the K&N, so who knows if the MSD will do much. Since your car parallels mine so closely I'm curious what other issues you've dealt with, how much you like it. -Dan

 

Jake,

I went with OEM Bosche rotor/cap. I too looked at the catalogs and web sites and then went to a local parts store (Northern Foreign Autoparts in Nashua NH) and they had BETTER prices. So it is definitely worth shopping around locally for the stock ignition parts!

Dan,

I was pretty lucky with my car...it had already had the clutch done, the timing belt had been done at 45K, and it already had the infamous oil cooler o-ring disaster! So I really only had to do the tune up and oil changes until doing the timing belt/water pump a few weeks ago. It was a bit strange because the previous owner had it in great shape mechanically with all Porsche parts, but he left other little annoying things not fixed. Fortunately I can do a lot of work myself so I've been doing all the little repairs...like adjusting the sunroof microswitches, repairing the climate control linkage and the like.

The "surginess" is sort of hard to define...but here's a shot at it: sometimes if I accelerate hard the car will go a bit faster or slower without a change in pedal pressure...sort of the feeling you get when a car accelerates when on cruise control...it's doing it by itself.

I'm doing the plugs Sunday...and I will go over all the vacuum hoses and clean the K&N...I'll report back if I find the cause.

As for liking it...I certainly do! I use it to do my long 60 mile (one way!) commute at least twice a week to make the drive enjoyable!! I think it's a lot happier getting used!!

Cheers,

Steve

 

[quote]Originally posted by 97xray:
<strong>I see Paragon has one for $55 </strong><hr></blockquote>


Includes cap_and_rotor, original Bosch

 

[quote]Originally posted by Steve in New Hampshire:
<strong>Is it time to do the plugs/rotor/cap again? or am I wasting my time/money?<hr></blockquote></strong>

Not wasteful, just cautious and preventative.

[quote]<strong>I have noticed a touch of 'surginess' on acceleration of late...could that simply mean it's time for the tune-up or perhaps a sign of other work? Perhaps injectors??</strong><hr></blockquote>

Perhaps injectors, yes. Have a look at the insides of the intake path from the airbox to the manifold - may be a bit gunked up with oil deposits and such. Give a good cleaning to the throttle itself, and clear out all the vacuum and intake lines. Finally, lift the cover on the AFM (Air Fuel Meter) to access the wiper arm. Prolonged driving at steady RPM's can cause carbon/ozone buildup on the wiper and the trace. Clean both (carefully) with a good pencil eraser and some isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab.

If not, then maybe have the injectors serviced or replaced - if they've never been done, it's certainly time.

Good Luck!

 

Well thanks to all for the advice! I did the Gas filter (nothing like a little gas down the sleeve!), oil and filter and the plugs. The cap and rotor had more carbon than I expected so I cleaned them up for now with some fine paper, but may just replace them in a couple weeks when I have time. Plugs were worn...but no nasty gop on them or anything scarey. Runs quite a bit better having done just that. Here's an interesting thing though: whilst under the backend doing the gas filter I was just doing a quick check of everything for wear or looseness (I occasionaly get a rattle at low speed from the drivers side rear)and I find that I have a black shock on one side and a yellow shock on the other!! Say what? Would someone actually replace only one side!!??? ARRRRRR.

So I'm thinking maybe I start doing shocks/struts earlier than I had wanted. Sooooo, with that in mind what options are there for an 87 NA? Looks like I only have two...original Sachs or Koni Yellows. If I start with the Konis (my preference) would it be okay to first do the (mismatched) rears and then the fronts?

Cheers,

Steve

 

[quote]Originally posted by Steve in New Hampshire:
<strong>Runs quite a bit better having done just that. <hr></blockquote></strong>

Great, congrats!

[quote]<strong>Here's an interesting thing though: whilst under the backend doing the gas filter I was just doing a quick check of everything for wear or looseness (I occasionaly get a rattle at low speed from the drivers side rear)and I find that I have a black shock on one side and a yellow shock on the other!! Say what? Would someone actually replace only one side!!??? ARRRRRR.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yes, unfortunately, and you should use one to beat the PO up'side the head with.
<img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

Maybe check for stamps or stickers on the two shocks to be sure what they really are - some OE shocks were yellow - maybe even a Monroe replacement.

[quote]<strong>what options are there for an 87 NA? Looks like I only have two...original Sachs or Koni Yellows.<hr></blockquote></strong>

Sachs for the front, boge for the back or front, KYB, Koni, Bilstein, JRZ, Penske and probably some others. Rear Koni's are bolt-on, front are the strut insert that requires some modification to the original strut to fit. Have you checked to see what exactly is on the front already - could be a real surprise now

[quote]<strong>If I start with the Konis (my preference) would it be okay to first do the (mismatched) rears and then the fronts?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yup, not ideal, but it works

Good Luck!

 

Thanks Skip! Yea, I'll crawl underneath and check the fronts tonight! Ran out of time yesterday...the Boss dragged me kicking and screaming from underneath the car! Things to do, people (in-laws) to see!! 8^)

When I changed the oil I did take a quick look and both fronts matched...both are black at least. I'll poke up underneath to see if they are of the sealed variety or not. If sealed I do have the ability to do the Koni conversion (machinist in a past life)...

sigh...

 

I am getting a "surgey" accelleration sometimes too!? Like I am letting up on the gas pedal, even though I am not??

What should my mechanic test for? Injector clogs, or should I check the cap/rotor for carbon?? I did the plugs, and the wires are a year old...

Idle is fine, and the engine runs smooth and pulls strong.