CLUTCH PROBLEM-ON THE FLOOR
#1
CLUTCH PROBLEM-ON THE FLOOR
So my car was driving fine. I pulled it in the garage put it on jackstands cheanged rotors brakes. Bled the brake system (coffee like fluid) Moved to the clutch, got the hose attached started bleeding two person method. (clutch in, bleeder open, clutch out bleeder closed) was pushing out tons of brown fluid. Then my assistant said the clutch was on the floor and would not come up. Started pulling the clutch p by hand and still trying to bleed clutch is staying on the floor. There is no brake fluid around the slave on the interior carpet. The clutch spring looks as if it's missing a "cotter pin" type thing on the rear side of the spring. Does anyone have pics of the clutch spring? The clutch is also no longer engaging the fork looking thru the inspection hole. I couldnt find a search w similar situation. I have to have the car running today, anyone that is free to give me a call please do so. 720-296-8207
Anthony
Denver, Co
Anthony
Denver, Co
#2
According to Ian at 944 online. Looking at my spring on the pedal, everything is together on the spring side of the bracket. On the other side, there is nothing. So when the clutch pedal is depressed, the "rod" is moving around a lot. There is spring pressure on the clutch on the way down as well as up. Can someone look at there clutch pedal spring and see if there is a clip holding the rod that spring is on still? Or does it move?
#5
I got a vacuum bleeder and i now have clear fluid coming through the lines. However, I still can't manually bleed the system (2 PERSON) clutch still goes to the floor and will not return. Any more ideas? Or am i doing something wrong? The car is on jackstands in the garage.
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#8
How do you check to see if the slave is blown? I'm getting clear fluid at the bleeder valve. There is no fluid at the carpet or near on the floorboard at all. The clutch goes to the floor with spring pressure and comes up with spring pressure. But there is zero pressure.
#9
Take a look at the second post in This Thread, it has a pretty good description of what to look for. On mine the clutch was on the floor and I had fluid in the cabin.
#10
my apologies for being so naive.......but I have no fluid in the cabin. The rod is in the fork and there is aslo a "rod" going into the slave from the clutch pedal which is pretty loose but I can see it engage. I can put my finger on the fork and push it towards the rear of the car and hear the fluid.
#11
I think you mean a "rod going into the master cylinder from the clutch pedal". This rod should not be loose but it may need to be adjusted to get the pedal free play correct (the rod length can be changed - see diagram in http://clarks-garage.com/ look under garage shop manual, clutch, master cylinder replacement). To look for leaks at the master cylinder, pull back the rubber boot where the clutch pedal rod meets the master cylinder. Sometimes the boot will hold brake fluid for a while before it fills and spills over onto the carpet. On the slave cylinder a leak may not be as obvious but usually there will be some trace of brake fluid if you feel around through the clutch fork/slave cylinder rod access hole (on the driver's side of bellhousing). Also check the rubber part of the clutch line for signs of leakage. It is possible to bleed the clutch system with a vacuum bleeder (I've done it many times) but it isn't as good as a power bleeder and you still may want to do a few strokes the 2-person way after the vacuum bleeder. Also, it is better to have the rear of the car on ramps so the air floats up towards the bleeder screw.
#12
thnks, gonna check for leaks again, throw the vacuum bleeder on there again and pump away and pray that it just magically starts working, because i'm at my end. When vacuum bleeding i'm getting a ton of just air bubbles coming through the hose. It should flow all clear liquid through the hose correct? And ive got someone keeping the resovoir filled and the rear end is on jackstands. Does it make sense that the slave/master would just go out from bleeding?
#13
USE A POWER BLEEDER, make sure the bleeder has plenty of fluid in it. A vacuum or 2-person method will suck air into the system if the master runs dry, then you start over with the bleeding process. Same deal for the brakes. A power bleeder will put air in the system too, if there is not enough fluid in the bleeder. I tried the 2-person and the vaccum methods (both are a pain in the butt)........nothing like a power bleeder when used properly.