944 for trade
03-23-2009, 12:50 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
944 for trade
I dont have pics right now, but will on monday. I have a 1985.5 944 N/A. It
has just over 100k. As pictured the car does need paint work.
The car does have a couple dents:
Has just had the waterpump, t-belt/Balance belt and all the front seals replaced. It does leak a little oil from the lower balence shaft housing. It has an A/c Delete kit, with the alternator relocated. And is running "Naked" with no belt covers, The lower belly pan isnt pictured but i do have it. The battery has been relocated to the rear spare tire well, but is actually wired to be in the passenger rear wheel cubby, the current battery is too large. It was wired to be fused in the rear for both the feed wire for the starter and the feed wires but i havent installed fuses, as well as it needs a distribution block to attach the 2 6 gauge wires to the 6(i think) feed wires for the relay panel, In both locations I used solder on eyelets and also crimped and heatshrunk them. Currently I just put a bolt through the eyelets and covered with tape, Not a permanent solution. I used Excelene wire for all 3 feed wires, this is the same wire used for the origonal IceShark Battery kits, I will include the wire, solder on lugs to make the lead to the alternator, and mil spec battery terminals.
CONTINUED BELOW
See Below for more details:
has just over 100k. As pictured the car does need paint work.
The car does have a couple dents:
Has just had the waterpump, t-belt/Balance belt and all the front seals replaced. It does leak a little oil from the lower balence shaft housing. It has an A/c Delete kit, with the alternator relocated. And is running "Naked" with no belt covers, The lower belly pan isnt pictured but i do have it. The battery has been relocated to the rear spare tire well, but is actually wired to be in the passenger rear wheel cubby, the current battery is too large. It was wired to be fused in the rear for both the feed wire for the starter and the feed wires but i havent installed fuses, as well as it needs a distribution block to attach the 2 6 gauge wires to the 6(i think) feed wires for the relay panel, In both locations I used solder on eyelets and also crimped and heatshrunk them. Currently I just put a bolt through the eyelets and covered with tape, Not a permanent solution. I used Excelene wire for all 3 feed wires, this is the same wire used for the origonal IceShark Battery kits, I will include the wire, solder on lugs to make the lead to the alternator, and mil spec battery terminals.
CONTINUED BELOW
See Below for more details:
Last edited by marky522; 03-23-2009 at 02:55 PM.
03-23-2009, 01:59 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
LOL!!! Sorry, that is actually an E-mail i sent to somone local, I dont have access to e-mail at work so i ran home on lunch just to post the info real quick i'll edit it and fix it.
Mark
Mark
03-23-2009, 02:05 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
Trending Topics
03-23-2009, 03:15 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
It has turbo brakes all around with PBR ultimate pads up
front, Stainless lines on all 4 corners, and really good used rotors.
The car rides firm but not excessive, VERY flat no body roll.
It has a manual Rack, camber plates. koni single adjustable "hacksaw" shocks on the front with an adjustable ride height kit from paragon with 250 lb front springs and a 26.8mm front swaybar.
It has coilover rear shocks on the rear with 525lb springs in the rear and the
t-bars deleted. It has been dropped an inch all around and I performed an
alignment about 3 weeks ago, its running 2.5 degrees negative camber in the
rear, 2 degrees neg camber in the front. Zero toe in the front and slightly
toed-in in the rear. I have a 18mm rear sway bar with the paragon aluminum
mounts/with delrin bushings and solid drop links that havent been installed.
The clutch master and slave have been replaced with Porsche parts, and
the entire brake/clutch system has been flushed and filled with Porsche Brake
fluid. Brake pedal is HIGH and the car STOPS.
The interior is clean, the carpet is like new, seats are clean with the typical wear on the DS bolster.
Dash has the usual cracks nothing excessive, its black. The interior rear
quarter panels are not installed because they warped while being stored but can
be included, i was going to replace them. the hatch carpet is thin but there, i
was going to get a seamstress to make me one that deleted the spare tire hump. It also has a short throw shifter.
Current wheels are off a Boxster, and yes they are the wrong offset, they have brand new (less than 1000 miles) Hankook Ventus tires. They need spacers to be properly set in the wheel well. I also have a set of 15" phone dials proper offset getting powdercoated black right now, but just have some crappy tires for those.
My next step was to get some better matched front springs, it isnt obvious that the springs are mismatched when you drive, but the front will bounce a litte more than the rear, i was going to get a set of 450lb springs.
The rear swaybar, mounts, and droplinks all need to be installed, as well as the battery relocation needs to be finished. I have been driving the car for the last 2 months on and off and it really does run well, when you start it it runs a little rough for about the first 30 seconds, then smooths out nice.
Parking brake needs new hardware/pads. There currently isnt any installed. When i did the turbo brake conversion i left it out with the intention of replacing it all, just havent ordered any of it.
I am a Porsche tech at a dealer outside of Raleigh, North Carolina I built this car with the intention of doing an LS swap, but decided that i would like to get a street bike, and put the project off for a while. I would like to trade for a 600cc street bike, like a r6 or GSXR600 Or maybe a turbo that needs work. Or would sell outright for $3000.
Thanks,
Mark
front, Stainless lines on all 4 corners, and really good used rotors.
The car rides firm but not excessive, VERY flat no body roll.
It has a manual Rack, camber plates. koni single adjustable "hacksaw" shocks on the front with an adjustable ride height kit from paragon with 250 lb front springs and a 26.8mm front swaybar.
It has coilover rear shocks on the rear with 525lb springs in the rear and the
t-bars deleted. It has been dropped an inch all around and I performed an
alignment about 3 weeks ago, its running 2.5 degrees negative camber in the
rear, 2 degrees neg camber in the front. Zero toe in the front and slightly
toed-in in the rear. I have a 18mm rear sway bar with the paragon aluminum
mounts/with delrin bushings and solid drop links that havent been installed.
The clutch master and slave have been replaced with Porsche parts, and
the entire brake/clutch system has been flushed and filled with Porsche Brake
fluid. Brake pedal is HIGH and the car STOPS.
The interior is clean, the carpet is like new, seats are clean with the typical wear on the DS bolster.
Dash has the usual cracks nothing excessive, its black. The interior rear
quarter panels are not installed because they warped while being stored but can
be included, i was going to replace them. the hatch carpet is thin but there, i
was going to get a seamstress to make me one that deleted the spare tire hump. It also has a short throw shifter.
Current wheels are off a Boxster, and yes they are the wrong offset, they have brand new (less than 1000 miles) Hankook Ventus tires. They need spacers to be properly set in the wheel well. I also have a set of 15" phone dials proper offset getting powdercoated black right now, but just have some crappy tires for those.
My next step was to get some better matched front springs, it isnt obvious that the springs are mismatched when you drive, but the front will bounce a litte more than the rear, i was going to get a set of 450lb springs.
The rear swaybar, mounts, and droplinks all need to be installed, as well as the battery relocation needs to be finished. I have been driving the car for the last 2 months on and off and it really does run well, when you start it it runs a little rough for about the first 30 seconds, then smooths out nice.
Parking brake needs new hardware/pads. There currently isnt any installed. When i did the turbo brake conversion i left it out with the intention of replacing it all, just havent ordered any of it.
I am a Porsche tech at a dealer outside of Raleigh, North Carolina I built this car with the intention of doing an LS swap, but decided that i would like to get a street bike, and put the project off for a while. I would like to trade for a 600cc street bike, like a r6 or GSXR600 Or maybe a turbo that needs work. Or would sell outright for $3000.
Thanks,
Mark
03-23-2009, 07:22 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
Limited travel too much with the car being lowered so i mounted them up top, cut the hat off the old strut mount and mounted that on the bottom to reinforce the body area. They have worked great this way, I have racked the car probably 2-4 times a week since i have been driving it and make sure to check for any signs of bending and it looks good. when i lowered the car and had them mounted on the bottom, i seriously only had about 2inches of travel left in the strut.
Mark
Mark
03-23-2009, 07:23 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
03-23-2009, 07:27 PM
#13
Race Car
I am sure my camber plates allow more than 2 inches of travel as with all spec racers with ground control plates. The only reason I pointed it out is that there is much more likelyhood that the aluminum will break off from the bolt points if you bounced going off track. The forces are distributed much more evenly if its installed underneath and safer imo.