Front Wheel Bearing/Brake bleeding
03-21-2009, 10:10 AM
#1
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Location: Fayetville, NC
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Front Wheel Bearing/Brake bleeding
Pulled rotors to get machined and replace pads. Noticed both hubs weren't spinning as freely as I thought they should. Got everything cleaned up, new bearings, putting back together now. Clarks write up says to pack the bearings with grease. Do i need to grease the spindle, race, everything else in there? Is too much bearing grease bad? Also, I've seen a few post sayin that the Driver rear caliper needs to be bled first because it's actually the longest line. Is this true?
Last edited by tony4x4nc; 03-21-2009 at 10:27 AM.
03-21-2009, 10:43 AM
#2
Yes it's a good idea to grease everything in there but don't completely fill up the cavity between inner & outer wheel bearing. The grease needs room to expand when hot. As for bleeding, if all you did was change pads, you really don't have to bleed them (I'm assuming you didn't remove the brake hose from the calipers). If you haven't opened up the hydraulics, just bleed the fronts to get any black fluid out of them.
03-21-2009, 11:03 AM
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I removed all 4 rotors, well 3, I have to drill out the stripped screws that hold the rear rotor on this morning. I removed the hose on the rear caliper, so i didn't bend it. The pads were in great shape, but the rotors were bad. Plus the fluid looks like coffee with cream. I was getting pulsating at the pedal. The wheel bearings werent adjusted correctly either, so some of that was probabaly hub runout? But i already bought the new pads, bearings, etc, so i'm going to change em out.
03-21-2009, 11:09 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Yes, its true. Look at your brake lines. The rears go from the MC to the right side of the car across the hood, then down the right side, then the left rear crosses back over across the back of the car.
03-21-2009, 11:51 AM
#5
Race Car
It doesn't matter which order you bleed the brakes. Just start with one wheel and go clockwise(or counterclockwise). Porsche recommends opening the front and rear bleeder on the same side of the car at the same time, then doing the other side the same way. Won't hurt to do the clutch at the same time. If its as bad as you say it is, the clutch will probably go to the floor after warming up.
03-21-2009, 12:04 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
While you'll get them bled in just about any order, it does make full fluid changes a lot easier if you go in order of longest to shortest line. You'll waste less fluid doing it that way.
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03-21-2009, 08:41 PM
#9
The way to do it properly is to heat up the hubs to 250 - 300 F and the races fall out (aluminum expands more than steel). Same thing for install but the FSM says to load it with a press while it cools so race doesn't back out a bit. I know a lot of people just knock them out and press new one in at room temp but there is some risk of buggering the aluminum hub due to the interference fit.
