Clutch Slave Cylinder Install
#1
Burning Brakes
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Clutch Slave Cylinder Install
Getting closer to finishing this clutch job.. But how do I get the slave clyinder bloted back up to the housing? I can seem to compress the piston back in to get it to bolt up?? All the manuals just say reinstall slave cylinder.
#3
Nordschleife Master
You should be able to push the rod back in and force fluid back up into the reservoir. You can try and gingerly compress with a C-Clamp. Or crack open the slave bleeder screw a bit and let the fluid out.
That rod can slip out of its hole if you went and stepped on the clutch when the slave was out so maybe it is misaligned and you need to pull the rubber boot off and get it back in the cylinder square.
That rod can slip out of its hole if you went and stepped on the clutch when the slave was out so maybe it is misaligned and you need to pull the rubber boot off and get it back in the cylinder square.
#4
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by IceShark:
<strong>That rod can slip out of its hole if you went and stepped on the clutch when the slave was out so maybe it is misaligned and you need to pull the rubber boot off and get it back in the cylinder square.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I would second this.
Its a little difficult rebuilding it underneath the car. I would just pull it off.... and pull the clip holding the rubber boot in place (don't rip the rubber!) and you should be able to put it back together. The only downside is you have to bleed the clutch. Augggghh..
On second thought pull the clip off from underneath.
<strong>That rod can slip out of its hole if you went and stepped on the clutch when the slave was out so maybe it is misaligned and you need to pull the rubber boot off and get it back in the cylinder square.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I would second this.
Its a little difficult rebuilding it underneath the car. I would just pull it off.... and pull the clip holding the rubber boot in place (don't rip the rubber!) and you should be able to put it back together. The only downside is you have to bleed the clutch. Augggghh..
On second thought pull the clip off from underneath.
#6
Burning Brakes
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Well I got it on, but I had to open the bleed screw to get it to relieve the pressure on the piston. Now I have a clutch pedal that goes to the floor. Is this caused by cracking the bleed screw and forcing the piston back in? Or could it be becuase I have no vacumn left in the motor? Can't start it right now.
#7
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If you closed the bleed screw immediately after letting some fluid out and depressing the rod, it should pump back up with a stroke or two of the clutch pedal. Make sure you have plenty of fluid in the resevoir.
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#9
Now... is the car level? It must be level or ideally with its butt up in the air. The blue hose attached to the front of the reservoir feeds the clutch.
The fluid can be at the max line and not be feeding the clutch side of the reservoir, especially if the front end is up of the ground. And guess what better way to introduce air than sucking from an empty reservoir!!
The fluid can be at the max line and not be feeding the clutch side of the reservoir, especially if the front end is up of the ground. And guess what better way to introduce air than sucking from an empty reservoir!!
#10
Burning Brakes
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It on stands all around, probably basically level. Fluid will come out if I crack the screw. I tried the putting a hose on the screw and in two inchs of oil, and pumpinng the brakes and cracking. But that didn't work to well, perhaps it time for a mechanical bleeder, since I don't have helper for this..
#11
Nordschleife Master
The problem is that that darn slave bleeder screw is not at the top so the air gets trapped in the cylinder when air gets in. That is why we all curse that clutch bleed. And, if you don't use a pressure bleeder air can get in around the bleeder screw threads if you are doing this alone and without a pressure bleeder.
Believe me, you are not alone down this problem filled road.
Since you are probably getting quite good at pulling the slave off the bellhousing, keep the line connected, carefully pull the cylinder off and tilt the back upright. Crack open the bleeder screw and let the air escape. Close it up and bolt the slave back in.
Good luck. This usually works OK short of having a crane and holding the car upright nose down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Believe me, you are not alone down this problem filled road.
Since you are probably getting quite good at pulling the slave off the bellhousing, keep the line connected, carefully pull the cylinder off and tilt the back upright. Crack open the bleeder screw and let the air escape. Close it up and bolt the slave back in.
Good luck. This usually works OK short of having a crane and holding the car upright nose down. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
#12
Burning Brakes
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I kind of almost like the crane idea better. I was really cursing getting the slave cylinder on, damn threads on the bolts just didn't want to catch.. Was having a hard time compresing the piston, pushing the cylinder far enough agianst the clutch for the bolt to reach, and then lining up the holes.
#13
Nordschleife Master
Just say Porsche 944 clutch replace or bleed in a room of mechanics at a party.
The guys that run out of the room or hide under tables are the ones that know what you are actually talking about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
The guys that run out of the room or hide under tables are the ones that know what you are actually talking about. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
#14
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I can see that.. I started the clutch job last Tuesday, it's been fun. But it sure made putting hood shocks on childs play. After getting aggravated with the clutch, I moved to the hood shocks, and they went on in under 5 minutes.. Next up, power steering rack..
#15
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Ok, I a now the owner of a cheap vacuum bleeder. I started the bleeding process, and with probably 15psi left on the vacuum, I closed the bleed screw as tight as I could, but I could still see a slow flow of oil. I'm guessing here that my bleed screw is shot? Anbody second this? Pedal is slight harder now, but still goes to the floor..