What is the true cost of those $1500 944s?
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On CL, Ebay, classified I routinely run across $1500 944s. Many are 1st gen 2.5L.
My question. What is the true cost of some of these 1st gen 944s? Are we talking $2500 or more to get really road worthy or more.
Please assume that body and interior are "decent" and would not require reconditioning.
Also, related to the first question, how many special tools are required? Just the timing belt tool? Anything which does not require a special tool I am willing to do myself so please keep that in mind.
I know it is hard to say, "well all 1984 944s require $3000 but 1986s require only $2645", I am just looking for what owners have typically put into these cars.
My guess is that a $4500 944 would be cheaper than a $1500 944, would like to hear the forums response.
My question. What is the true cost of some of these 1st gen 944s? Are we talking $2500 or more to get really road worthy or more.
Please assume that body and interior are "decent" and would not require reconditioning.
Also, related to the first question, how many special tools are required? Just the timing belt tool? Anything which does not require a special tool I am willing to do myself so please keep that in mind.
I know it is hard to say, "well all 1984 944s require $3000 but 1986s require only $2645", I am just looking for what owners have typically put into these cars.
My guess is that a $4500 944 would be cheaper than a $1500 944, would like to hear the forums response.
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depends on what needs to be done.
if there's engine internal work or clutch work, then it's gonna be a good chunk of change. if you figure that you have to do at the very least:
1) timing belt
2) water pump
3) front end seal set
4) clutch
5) rear main seal
6) suspension bushings, possibly new control arms
then with a future possibility of oil pan gasket, oil pickup tube, rod bearings
it's not a matter of how much. it's just a matter of when you're going to spend it.
if there's engine internal work or clutch work, then it's gonna be a good chunk of change. if you figure that you have to do at the very least:
1) timing belt
2) water pump
3) front end seal set
4) clutch
5) rear main seal
6) suspension bushings, possibly new control arms
then with a future possibility of oil pan gasket, oil pickup tube, rod bearings
it's not a matter of how much. it's just a matter of when you're going to spend it.
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It also depends on what level of repair you want to achieve. To fully restore one of these cars to almost "as new" condition (or even better) costs a fortune if the car has not already been heavily invested in over the years by previous owners. OTOH, if you just want it to sort of go until something expensive breaks, don't care what the neighbours think about the oil stains in your driveway, etc. then you can drive for cheap -- at least for a while.
Not with much class, though.
If you want class, it's probably cheaper to buy class up front. In any case, it's always wise to get a thorough PPI by someone who knows what to look for in these cars -- in any price range, variations in actual mechanical condition can be huge.
Not with much class, though.
If you want class, it's probably cheaper to buy class up front. In any case, it's always wise to get a thorough PPI by someone who knows what to look for in these cars -- in any price range, variations in actual mechanical condition can be huge.
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well let's see, mine was $1250 and at the time I had no idea how to work on cars (that changed).
there was getting someone to do the timing belt/water pump...$1200 right there
it went through I dunno like 8 ball joints in 2 months, that was about $1000 by the time I eventually bought the brass bushing version
then there was the transmission destruction which ended up being about 2k when all was said and done
then the head gasket went that was about 1k
so yeah you might as well jump right into one of those 15k mint condition 944 turbos or not bother getting one at all.
there was getting someone to do the timing belt/water pump...$1200 right there
it went through I dunno like 8 ball joints in 2 months, that was about $1000 by the time I eventually bought the brass bushing version
then there was the transmission destruction which ended up being about 2k when all was said and done
then the head gasket went that was about 1k
so yeah you might as well jump right into one of those 15k mint condition 944 turbos or not bother getting one at all.
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Please assume that body and interior are "decent" and would not require reconditioning.
If those things are ok go with $1500 car. I think that you cannot get $1500 car with body and interior that would not need reconditioning.
Early 944 suspension parts are cheaper, no aluminium A arms.
If those things are ok go with $1500 car. I think that you cannot get $1500 car with body and interior that would not need reconditioning.
Early 944 suspension parts are cheaper, no aluminium A arms.
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I've always joked that EVERY 944 is a $6,000 car to the buyer and always will be. Anything less in the purchase price is going to be made up in repairs.
It's not too far from the truth. The starting point is the timing belt and the clutch. Those are two big ticket issues that are beyond the capabilities of most DIY'ers.
It helps to be somewhat mechanically inclined. Little stuff like brakes and fluids can cost a ton if you pay a pro to do it.
It's not too far from the truth. The starting point is the timing belt and the clutch. Those are two big ticket issues that are beyond the capabilities of most DIY'ers.
It helps to be somewhat mechanically inclined. Little stuff like brakes and fluids can cost a ton if you pay a pro to do it.
#7
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My $1200 944 is now very close to having $6k in it over the course of the last 3 years (and, it's almost "done", yay!). I believe there is a lot of truth in the $6k rule.
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Thanks guys, that was my thought as well.
A running, "decent" body/interior for $1500 sounds like a reasonable "deal" considering I would do all work myself. I'd probably even buy a timing belt tool for $500 considering it costs $1200 to have someone do it for you.
High probability that the car will be tracked as well, so my idea of a "decent" body interior is probably quite a bit lower than what others might call decent (no rust, no major dents, no tears, but tired is okay).
I think that $6000 for a weekend toy is pretty reasonable.
A running, "decent" body/interior for $1500 sounds like a reasonable "deal" considering I would do all work myself. I'd probably even buy a timing belt tool for $500 considering it costs $1200 to have someone do it for you.
High probability that the car will be tracked as well, so my idea of a "decent" body interior is probably quite a bit lower than what others might call decent (no rust, no major dents, no tears, but tired is okay).
I think that $6000 for a weekend toy is pretty reasonable.
#10
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well i bought my car as a $800 piece of junk with a blown headgasket and rotted interior + $300 tow truck.
as it sits, it's got gutted interior, new timing belt, lifters, valves, valve stem seals, headgasket, other top end gaskets, radiator, oprv, oil cooler, oil pickup tube, rod bearings, el cheapo clutch, control arms, ... i think that's about it. i think i'm about additional 4000 in. so kind of on the mark.
as it sits, it's got gutted interior, new timing belt, lifters, valves, valve stem seals, headgasket, other top end gaskets, radiator, oprv, oil cooler, oil pickup tube, rod bearings, el cheapo clutch, control arms, ... i think that's about it. i think i'm about additional 4000 in. so kind of on the mark.
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My $1200 924s has been pretty good, i took a chance and it has been worth it. So far im about 3k into the 6k rule, i did the brakes and konis/suspension. The nickel and dime factor is pretty high but thats my compulsive need for little parts making me poor lol.
Its worth every cent if the cars body and interior are decent and if you do most of the work yourself.
Its worth every cent if the cars body and interior are decent and if you do most of the work yourself.
#12
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I bought my last n/a (red 84 with nice interior/paint) for $650 and a snapped t-belt. If the car is in good shape and had a "major" failure (t-belt/trans/etc) it could be a steal if you can do your own work.
FWIW, I put just under 60K miles on it and had less than $1400 in the entire car. I sold it for $2500. Cheapest car I've ever owned!
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_PORSCHE014.jpg)
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_PORSCHE012.jpg)
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_newinterior.jpg)
FWIW, I put just under 60K miles on it and had less than $1400 in the entire car. I sold it for $2500. Cheapest car I've ever owned!
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_PORSCHE014.jpg)
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_PORSCHE012.jpg)
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_newinterior.jpg)
![](http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g143/mikemarkota/Guards%2084%20album/th_porsche002.jpg)
#13
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Pure luck. My car was a steal. After a week the experience added $6000 to the price. Rad, belts, waterpump, shocks, and a bunch of small stuff that needed done.
#14
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In any case I have a complete 2.5 engine if needed.
#15
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The best deals are often cars that someone bought for $2000 and put $5000 into it, making it a $3500 car when they are bored with it or need to sell it in 2-3 years. However one issue with the 944 is that bad/indifferent wrenching and care leads to very expensive problems. If you read this forum for a while you see that some people seem to have loads of preventable problems that are brought on by assumptions, lies or poor/incomplete work done by the previous owner (PO) driving around with problems such as leaks, noises, overheating, etc. Stuff like:
"The timing belt was just done so I assumed it was good for a couple years."
The timing belt, and the rollers, and the water pump? Done right? Retensioned properly and not overtensioned? No oil leaks in the belt area? Balance shafts properly aligned? Balancer torqued on properly?
Anyway if you give a $3500 car a good once over and do not ignore noises, leaks, overheating and check/retension the belts you will be miles ahead of the average owner who buys an unloved car and drives it into the ground, then complains that the engineering was bad or the PO was liar.
Good luck,
-Joel.
"The timing belt was just done so I assumed it was good for a couple years."
The timing belt, and the rollers, and the water pump? Done right? Retensioned properly and not overtensioned? No oil leaks in the belt area? Balance shafts properly aligned? Balancer torqued on properly?
Anyway if you give a $3500 car a good once over and do not ignore noises, leaks, overheating and check/retension the belts you will be miles ahead of the average owner who buys an unloved car and drives it into the ground, then complains that the engineering was bad or the PO was liar.
Good luck,
-Joel.