Door "trigger" kinda hard to squeeze...normal?
#1
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Door "trigger" kinda hard to squeeze...normal?
Not sure if this is normal, but after trying my Bro-in-law's '97 996 (vrooom), his door trigger handles open with a smooth motion and little effort. Mine needs a good squeeze...as if the cables are first being stretched, and THEN catching the door release. Both sides. Know what I mean?
Cures?
Cures?
#3
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sorta off topic, but yesterday morning both door locks on my S2 were locked, frozen shut, and the key wouldn't budge either one. The result of a poorly timed wash at near freezing temps. With no time to spare, I resorted to entering through the trunk, climbing over the rear seat(split folding thankfully) and sitting in the driver seat w/o stepping on it. I'm 6'2" so it was not easy, I'm just glad no one was looking
when not frozen, I would say my handles are harder to operate than other cars, but not overly difficult
when not frozen, I would say my handles are harder to operate than other cars, but not overly difficult
#4
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The "pressure" required to operate the door pull is adjustable, but it's a bit of a hassle. There is a black plastic piece that can be adusted up or down on the actuator arm. On early cars it's fairly easy to get to - you just need to pull the door panel to get to the parts. For later model cars with the anti-theft panel you will need to remove the door handle. There are detail instructions in the 968 Door Handle Upgrade link in my sig. Have fun!
#6
This is normal maintenance for 944s.
Open the door, remove the Phillips head screw that holds the door handle on. Get some spray lube (we use Wurth HHS2000) and spray inside the hole, aiming for the handle linkage. Refit the screw. Get the spray lube and aim the tube inside the handle (on the outside of the door) where the lever is and spray. Operate the lever a few times. Fixed. Repeat every 6 months. Clean off the residue.
Open the door, remove the Phillips head screw that holds the door handle on. Get some spray lube (we use Wurth HHS2000) and spray inside the hole, aiming for the handle linkage. Refit the screw. Get the spray lube and aim the tube inside the handle (on the outside of the door) where the lever is and spray. Operate the lever a few times. Fixed. Repeat every 6 months. Clean off the residue.
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#8
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GMS, lubing isn't going to fix the problem andy is talking about. His handle doesn't open the door with enough leverage because the black adjustable peice connecting the handle to the opening mechanism of the door isn't tight enough. Andy you can fix this without taking the door panels off, but it's a real pain. Actually, it's a real pain any way you do it. Mine is the same way, I have to use two hands to open it sometimes.
#9
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My passenger door is the same,I can open it using my thumb,drivers side is much easier!Thanks for all the tips,Im gonna replace my door panels and speakers,ill just add this to the neve ending list!! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#10
My driver's side is the same way. Actually, it was once much WORSE - the mechanism had failed completely. Fortunately, my girlfriend's father has a knack for fixing this sort of thing. We got it 95% right.
Removing the outer door handle is very easy. You might do so just to visually inspect the mechanisms and see if all appears to be intact. If nothing is broken, then an adjustment is what you need.
The actual repair/adjustment of the piece itself is a bitch. You will need to remove the door panel and all that jazz.
Unfortunately, most mechanics would have no clue where to begin fixing the door handle, so it's a DIY job (as are most 944 tasks!). Just be prepared for a lot of cussing before the thing is finally fixed. It can be done, it just takes a while. In addition to a Phillips Head screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and flashlight, you should probably have a cold beer handy. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
Removing the outer door handle is very easy. You might do so just to visually inspect the mechanisms and see if all appears to be intact. If nothing is broken, then an adjustment is what you need.
The actual repair/adjustment of the piece itself is a bitch. You will need to remove the door panel and all that jazz.
Unfortunately, most mechanics would have no clue where to begin fixing the door handle, so it's a DIY job (as are most 944 tasks!). Just be prepared for a lot of cussing before the thing is finally fixed. It can be done, it just takes a while. In addition to a Phillips Head screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and flashlight, you should probably have a cold beer handy. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />
#11
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my passenger door is difficult to open (um, "sticky"). but if i open the door with my right hand and with my left, gently push on the frame of the window near the side/top, it opens.
one thing: i broke my only key a while ago and had to get new ones made (early 944). the locksmith told me that there is a code stamped on the barrel and if I were to remove the door handle and give him acces to the handle, he could then make copies (@$25.00) from the code. so i removed the passenger door handle and got that solved. i put it back together and noticed that this particular mechanism functions a lot smoother than the driver's side. so after re-installation, i firmly believe it's not the handle, but the door lock itself, which may need to be re-aligned ("sticky") - because it still sucks!
check it:
opening the haynes manual (924 edition) on pg. 283:
the text says, "5. There is little that can be done to a faulty lock. The mechanism is mostly made of pressed parts which can neither be repaired nor renewed. The lock can be moved to the limits of the screws to engage the striker bolt more easily. The striker bolt may be rotated a little if worn."
(also there is figure 18.3 "Adjusting the door lock and aligning the striker")
one thing: i broke my only key a while ago and had to get new ones made (early 944). the locksmith told me that there is a code stamped on the barrel and if I were to remove the door handle and give him acces to the handle, he could then make copies (@$25.00) from the code. so i removed the passenger door handle and got that solved. i put it back together and noticed that this particular mechanism functions a lot smoother than the driver's side. so after re-installation, i firmly believe it's not the handle, but the door lock itself, which may need to be re-aligned ("sticky") - because it still sucks!
check it:
opening the haynes manual (924 edition) on pg. 283:
the text says, "5. There is little that can be done to a faulty lock. The mechanism is mostly made of pressed parts which can neither be repaired nor renewed. The lock can be moved to the limits of the screws to engage the striker bolt more easily. The striker bolt may be rotated a little if worn."
(also there is figure 18.3 "Adjusting the door lock and aligning the striker")
#13
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That's not andy's problem. His problem is in the part connecting the door opening latch. There is a black plastic peice that pops onto a nub that is threaded onto the metal bar hanging down from the handle. When you pull on the handle to open the door, it pulls on this part which opens the door. If the black peice isn't threaded onto the bar enough, then it will be too loose and when you pull on the handle it won't immediately start to open the latch, and when it does finally start you have less leverage to pull it open, so it is harder to open.
#14
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[quote]Originally posted by AndyK:
<strong>Screw that! Removing the door handle looks like a total pain!
Love the way your 968 door handles look though!</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks - the 968 door handles were worth the effort. This is one of those jobs that becomes very easy once you've done it. The inital effort though takes quite a bit of time. The first 968 handle took about eight hours to install, the second took less than two hours and that included taking all the photos for the web site. My rough estimate is that it takes about 30 minutes once you know how to do it - including putting the tools back up!
<strong>Screw that! Removing the door handle looks like a total pain!
Love the way your 968 door handles look though!</strong><hr></blockquote>
Thanks - the 968 door handles were worth the effort. This is one of those jobs that becomes very easy once you've done it. The inital effort though takes quite a bit of time. The first 968 handle took about eight hours to install, the second took less than two hours and that included taking all the photos for the web site. My rough estimate is that it takes about 30 minutes once you know how to do it - including putting the tools back up!
#15
Race Director
"If the black peice isn't threaded onto the bar enough, then it will be too loose and when you pull on the handle it won't immediately start to open the latch, and when it does finally start you have less leverage to pull it open, so it is harder to open."
I've also seen this the other way around where it's threaded on too far and the angle of the pull isn't quite right. Some people have welded a bolt to the end of the rod to extend the threaded section so they can unscrew it further.
I've also seen this the other way around where it's threaded on too far and the angle of the pull isn't quite right. Some people have welded a bolt to the end of the rod to extend the threaded section so they can unscrew it further.