x0panda0x

I like to take on these big jobs myself since they are so expensive, lol. I was just wondering if anyone knows what I would want to change out with the clutch. I plan on getting the clutch kit and a new flywheel. Anything else recommended? Also, if anyone has any tips or knows of a similar thread (i couldn't find one) with any info on a clutch replacement, it would help a lot! I'll make sure to keep everyone posted on how it goes. Thanks for any info :-)

Kevin R.
1984 Porsche 944 NA

KuHL 951

Items not in the clutch kit are the rear main seal, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, throw-out bearing guide, and clutch fork bearings. Clarks Garage was probably the best write-up IMO when I did my 83. The rest of it work is just frustrating tight space issues like the reference sensors and getting the rusty parts off.

Mike C.

The Clark's write up is good. There is also plenty of information here on Rennlist. I just recently did a clutch on my (early) 85 and decided to use the Vertex reman spring centered disc. So far I'm happy with it. Smooth engagement. They sell a kit using this disc with a Sachs pressure plate & T.O. bearing for a competitve price. Definitely do the rear main seal, inspect the clutch fork for obvious wear at the points where the fork contacts the T.O. bearing. It is a good idea to replace the fork bearings and pivot shaft and TOB guide tube and pilot bearing as mentioned above. I have never had problems re-using the flywheel bolt and pp bolts except in a couple instances where a pp bolt head rounded out.
Getting the ref sensors out can be a real SOB since you have so little room to work (with intake manifold installed). You may want to consider removing intake and doing a few WYIT jobs too. I would also recommend notching the bellhousing for the ref sensors. This makes putting things back together easier and allows you to visually check sensor gaps before bellhousing goes on. Good Luck.

JohnKoaWood

Exhaust Gaskets, Rear Main Seal, Trans Fluid (Check your mounts, is a great time to change them), Also a good time to change the Axle Bolts (the ones that attach the axles to the transmission and the hubs).

Make sure you get NEW pressure plate bolts, and NEW flywheel hardware in addition to the items shown above.

Have fun and good luck, it takes a lot to get this done, but it is so rewardign to stnad back and say "look what I gone and did"...

FRporscheman

Usually you don't need to replace the flywheel, you can just have the old one resurfaced for $30 or something.

apierce918

i just cleaned mine and slapped it back on, felt fine, i did install new everything that kuhl mentioned

FRporscheman

Sometimes when I'm in a hurry and feeling really cheap, I will use a disc sander to scuff up the flywheel instead of having it machined. That works too.

x0panda0x

thanks for all of the great info guys. i'll have to look at the clark's right up. lol, i guess i'll decide what to do with the flywheel when i get there. i just figured for my mind's sake, that since mostly everything else will be new for the most part, that if the flywheel was new, it would definitely be something not to worry about and i could keep the old one back as a spare in case, god forbid, something catostrophic happened to the new one. I guess it'll probably depend on finances at that point, ha. Thanks again guys :-)

Kevin R.
1984 Porsche 944 NA

Mike C.

A stock flywheel won't fly apart or anything like that. It's if the surface where the clutch disc contacts isn't flat and uniform, you can get clutch chatter. I had put a new FW in when I did my previous clutch. After 90K miles, it still looked fine and I just sanded the contact surface with 320 grit emery paper (I did the same on the pressure plate). It has been smooth as silk so far.

John_AZ

In addition to the www.Clarks-Garage.com write up on clutch replacement, I suggest you read the procedure from a great mechanic-Jim Pasha:
http://www.924.org/techsection/ClutchReplacement.htm

This is a clutch replacement procedure from Michael Kehr:
http://www.connact.com/~kgross/FAQ/944faqcu.html

This is one of many Rennlist posts:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...lutch-job.html

MY suggestions:
Get quality hex set and hex sockets. Throw away the cheap, rounded out set you have because you will strip the hex pan head bolts you find on the sensor bracket and TT shaft coupler and others.
Get many extensions for your sockets. to get to the sensor bracket you need at least 2 feet of extensions and a universal.
Get a set of triple square/cheesehead ???? hex for the CV jount and flywheel.

This is a good time to repair your sloppy shift lever----search for many repairs of post a new Q.
Be careful of the foam under the shift lever and top of the TT. Gentle is best or get new.

Your silver body heat sheild is torn and the fabric falls on your face. Get a mask or be prepared to cough and gag a lot.

Get Redline or Swepco trans fluid and replace.

Clutch alignment tool and other stuff from Paragon Parts:
http://www.paragon-products.com/category_s/407.htm

FLYWHEEL SEAL-The seal sits deeper than flush with the block!!! If you do not seat the seal deep enough it will leak. Be careful of removal of old seal. Do not scratch the block. The seal can be set with a similiar size of PVC pipe from Home depot or Loews.

Flywheel bolts-I suggest replacement. They stretch.

If you have the flywheel surfaced by a machine shop, have them balance the new PP and flywheel together. If you do not you may experience a vibration------why take the gamble?

Expected time for first clutch job? 5 to 7 days allowing for shop time and numerous trips to store and ordering more parts.

Good Luck
John_AZ
1988 924S 59K + 1987 924S 112.8K DD
1979 924 + 1977.5 924 + 1970 914 1.7 + MG Midget +++===gone, past tutors

krystar

and if u feel even cheaper than that and are feeling adventurous, then check out our cheap clutch thread hehe.

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ensive-12.html

x0panda0x

ok, so if i buy a new flywheel would i need to have the pressure plate and flywheel balanced together?

mike c: which of the clutch kits on vertex has the remanned spring center disc?

I have to buy some tools too, hmmm.

FRporscheman

Need, no. But if you can afford the extra expense, it would be nice. Theoretically, new FWs are already balanced perfectly, and I think the same is true for PPs.

John_AZ

You will be spending a week on your back and maybe longer to replace the clutch unless you have a access to a lift, experience or willing helpers and maybe "superpowers" not mentioned. You will be spending $700 or more on parts and tools.

Balance the PP and flywheel. You need to match the set or you MAY have to live with an irritating vibration at 60 to 90+ mph.

But then again, if you have a motormount idle vibration already or your balance belt is off a tooth you may never notice it.

GL
John_AZ

Mike C.

I've never done the FW/PP balance in the clutches I've installed and never noticed any thing unusual. How much does it cost to get this done? Opanda, just look at the Vertex site and it's very clear which kit uses the factory disc and which one uses the Vertex rmfg disc (the price difference is another clue). It took me a full weekend to do my first clutch replacement. Don't rush it.