thekidd

I have a no start problem, as do some of us. I have check the starter, alternater, and battery all at a parts store, all tested good. Checked the ignion switch, good- got.2 ohms I think. Tried to jiggle the refernce sensers, and that didnt help, cant even get them to disconnect to check resitance. But today I was checking for spark. Took the ignition coil wire out of the D-cap, put a screwdriver in, placed it near the engine manifold, brother tried to start to engine and I got no spark. Replaced the wire to D-cap, Took out a spark plag (closest to the windsheild) connected plug to wire to the spark plug, put a metal peice of the plug onto the manifold, brother tried to start the car, and no spark. OK, the test I have done wasd checking the ignition coil. I got 12 DCVs with ignition on and off, with the positive wire (black) and the ground wire (green) connected to the leads. I did the primary test (Haynes Manuel) with an ohm meter from the (+) lead and ground lead and I got .6 ohms. I tested evry terminal, to every other terminal and got 0 ohms on all of them. The other test they say to put my meter to a high resistance and check from terminal 1 lead? to 4 (under the rubber cap) and got 0L on my meter, 0 ohms, but dont have a high resitance switch on mine, just Amps, ohms, ACVs and DCVs. Any help? My inital though was that my coil was bad because I wasnt getting spark, but when I checked for voltage (12DCVs) I though that I was good because I got voltage. To cunfusing? Ask questions please.
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DarylJ

Is the tach bouncing when you crank it?

thekidd

No. I tried to take the reference sensors out, but I can see where they go into the bellhousing. And most importantly, I cant even get them them unpluged. Tach bounces a little when I shut her down, after the ignitionn position, thats the only time it moves at all.

thekidd

Well, I tested the reference/speed sensers and got nothing. Tested them with a ohm/volt meter by means of Clarks geerajh and I got no Ohm and no voltage. Clarks didnt say anything about voltage, just wanted to check it out. They were a bugger to get off, but I got them ogg, but broke the hell out of them. Peices of the sensers (part that goes to the enging) are stuck in the female peice. They fit back in place, but not snuggly. If you get no Ohms, does that mean that they are bad? Or do you need a osciliscope to test to see if they are bad?

Ben951S

If the sensor is in pieces, it's probably toast. They go bad.

The BMW ones are the same part, and cost a lot less. Hopefully some one can link you/show you where to buy (Pelican Parts?)

=)