Any way to get rid of flat spots on tires?
#18
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Yeah, I don't want a $200 set of tires to end up being a $200 set of tires plus a $300 tranny and a $500 clutch, AND labor! I thought I should do donuts instead of a straight burn out, and to roll on the power gently, to be easy on the clutch and tranny.
I forgot about the tire shaving option. But I really don't think that's worth it, because I'll end up paying $$$ for low-tread tires, when I could just pay a little more $$$ and get brand new tires. The way I see it, a burnout is free and if I cook the tires, I needed new ones anyway. I've got nothing to lose (except my entire drivetrain)!
I don't have a camcorder but how about a bunch of pics?
I forgot about the tire shaving option. But I really don't think that's worth it, because I'll end up paying $$$ for low-tread tires, when I could just pay a little more $$$ and get brand new tires. The way I see it, a burnout is free and if I cook the tires, I needed new ones anyway. I've got nothing to lose (except my entire drivetrain)!
I don't have a camcorder but how about a bunch of pics?
#19
Just wet the ground first. It's the initial breaking of traction that's hard on parts. Keeping them spinning isn't all that hard on the running gear.
Hell, you could even use some of that tire shine crap on the tread surface to help break them loose initially.
Hell, you could even use some of that tire shine crap on the tread surface to help break them loose initially.
#21
so what makes you rocket scientists think the flat part isn't going wear out with the rest of it when you do a burn out and have the same issue at the end , but with more risk of damaging more components.
shaving puts a fixed blade on and leaves the flat spot alone until the depth has caught up.
Whan i did mine the entire drivers compartment filled with acrid smoke and scared the crap out of me. Brand new set of R71s at the time too ... oh well
If you can't aford to shave them just leve them. it seams particularly bad right after becasuse both flat spots are hitting the ground at the same time. eventually the flats will more away from each other and although you will have an overall vibration it will be lessened.
shaving puts a fixed blade on and leaves the flat spot alone until the depth has caught up.
Whan i did mine the entire drivers compartment filled with acrid smoke and scared the crap out of me. Brand new set of R71s at the time too ... oh well
If you can't aford to shave them just leve them. it seams particularly bad right after becasuse both flat spots are hitting the ground at the same time. eventually the flats will more away from each other and although you will have an overall vibration it will be lessened.
#22
Nothing to worry about, the same thing has happened to me and I resolved the issue the same way everyone was mentioning. There are many ways to burn rubber without destroying the transmission. Wetting the tires was mentioned already. You could always do doughnuts. Just drive in circle in first gear until you get to about 20mph, and shift to second quickly. 20 to 30 seconds should be more than enough to rectify the flat spot.
#23
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Of course the flat spot will wear down in a burnout too, just not as much and the edges of the spots will round out.
I drove 250 miles since it happened, and strangely it still sounds/feels like the two spots are in synch.
It rained a lot today so the roads are pretty wet....... And yes, it's an 84, hardly capable of losing traction at all, that's another reason I wanted to go in circles, and another reason to do it in the rain.
I drove 250 miles since it happened, and strangely it still sounds/feels like the two spots are in synch.
It rained a lot today so the roads are pretty wet....... And yes, it's an 84, hardly capable of losing traction at all, that's another reason I wanted to go in circles, and another reason to do it in the rain.
#24
When I lightly flat spot racing tires I just put them in the back. Risk of futher flat spoting and vibration in the rear is less. Then just wear them down.
For street tires you are pretty much hosed unless you put them in back. Most tire shavers won't shave used tires for fear of damaging the machine due to embeded rocks.
BTW... a 944 should out brake most cars however it is easy to lock up when you apply a light brake at first then go harder and harder on the pedal. The issue is you never put enough weight transfer up front right away and then thus allows the brakes to overcome the grip on the road.
For street tires you are pretty much hosed unless you put them in back. Most tire shavers won't shave used tires for fear of damaging the machine due to embeded rocks.
BTW... a 944 should out brake most cars however it is easy to lock up when you apply a light brake at first then go harder and harder on the pedal. The issue is you never put enough weight transfer up front right away and then thus allows the brakes to overcome the grip on the road.
#25
Different type of flat spot on the trailer tires. For the trailer tires over winter try overinflatting them while it sits over winter, it will help some. Or put it on jack stands with no weight on the tires.
#27
Of course the flat spot will wear down in a burnout too, just not as much and the edges of the spots will round out.
I drove 250 miles since it happened, and strangely it still sounds/feels like the two spots are in synch.
It rained a lot today so the roads are pretty wet....... And yes, it's an 84, hardly capable of losing traction at all, that's another reason I wanted to go in circles, and another reason to do it in the rain.
I drove 250 miles since it happened, and strangely it still sounds/feels like the two spots are in synch.
It rained a lot today so the roads are pretty wet....... And yes, it's an 84, hardly capable of losing traction at all, that's another reason I wanted to go in circles, and another reason to do it in the rain.
#28
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The front tires are low-end Michelin Pilots. They have at least half of their tread left so they should grip at least as well as the average tire on the road, I would think they'd grip better.
Joe, I think you're right on regarding why my wheels locked. I'm usually cool and controlled, but things just happened fast and I remember I blinked right before the SUV hit the brakes, so I reacted late and too quickly. The weight didn't transfer to the front in time, and the wheels locked. I tried to pump the brake, but I didn't let go all the way (mistake). By the time I tried a 2nd pump it was over.
It's supposed to rain on Wednesday here so I'll swap the tires front/back tomorrow evening.
Where can one buy tires at the best price? I don't want to buy house-brand crap, I want something on the level of ES100, Fuzion, Ecsta, etc.
Joe, I think you're right on regarding why my wheels locked. I'm usually cool and controlled, but things just happened fast and I remember I blinked right before the SUV hit the brakes, so I reacted late and too quickly. The weight didn't transfer to the front in time, and the wheels locked. I tried to pump the brake, but I didn't let go all the way (mistake). By the time I tried a 2nd pump it was over.
It's supposed to rain on Wednesday here so I'll swap the tires front/back tomorrow evening.
Where can one buy tires at the best price? I don't want to buy house-brand crap, I want something on the level of ES100, Fuzion, Ecsta, etc.
#29
I had the same thing happen to me in my 83'. Some nut decided to slam their brakes on a green light. I ended up leaving a rubber trail about half a block long. Panic stops happen, nobody's perfect..
Of course it was all remedied after a long spirited (safe) drive in the rain.
Of course it was all remedied after a long spirited (safe) drive in the rain.