Clutch Trouble(More updates, more problems...)
#16
Burning Brakes
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remove the cross member that the trans and fuel filter bolt to. Loosen the exhaust hangers where they clamp to the tube, move the tube approx 4in back and rotate it 180 degrees. You can then move it far enoughback to remove the bell housing. A second alternative exists where you do not remove the bell housing at all. Unbolt the press plate and move it and the disk into the bell housing, then unbolt and remove the flywheel, this gives enough room to remove the clutch assy. Good luck Mark T.
#17
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I don't see HOW to remove that crossmember. It looks like it's part of the frame or something. Where are the bolts/ studs that hold it on? How big is it? Where does it come apart?
I hate cars more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
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I hate cars more <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
#20
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Sorry you have an early car the trans mount that everyone has been talking about is 85.5 and later. If you flip the torque tube 180 deg it should come back far enough to remove the bell housing.
#21
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Another thought, you have removed the shift lever from inside the car and disconnected the shift rod. Pull the shift rod out from the rear, remove it completely. You will need to do this before you turn the torque tube upside down.
Good luck Mark T.
Good luck Mark T.
#22
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I got the shift lever out, the tube rotates fine. I wasn't home today that much, but I did look at the car for a few minutes.
Turns out I forgot to disconnect the one ground on the bellhousing (doh!). I'll try again tommorow and see if that helps.
Stupid Audi transmissions having giant bellhousing for no reason...
Turns out I forgot to disconnect the one ground on the bellhousing (doh!). I'll try again tommorow and see if that helps.
Stupid Audi transmissions having giant bellhousing for no reason...
#23
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Still can't get the bellhousing off. The torque tube is definately out enough, everything's disconnected, but it still won't come off. Something is holding it on the top, and I think it's a coolant hose that goes into the heater core (or at least the firewall). It's wedging up against it, and I don't want to pop the hose.
I did get it off enough to slide the release fork out...and one of the arms broke clean off! That must have been the loud pop I heard... Anyway, looks like I'll need a new one of those too. Who sells them and for how much?
Also, what would cause it to just snap like that? It's a clean break, and that's pretty thick metal. It happened when we were bleeding the clutch system--could I have had the clutch free play adjusted wrong and that broke it? Did I put the slave cylinder in wrong? Well, I gotta go to work now, and I'm not looking forward to getting back to work on the car. <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
I did get it off enough to slide the release fork out...and one of the arms broke clean off! That must have been the loud pop I heard... Anyway, looks like I'll need a new one of those too. Who sells them and for how much?
Also, what would cause it to just snap like that? It's a clean break, and that's pretty thick metal. It happened when we were bleeding the clutch system--could I have had the clutch free play adjusted wrong and that broke it? Did I put the slave cylinder in wrong? Well, I gotta go to work now, and I'm not looking forward to getting back to work on the car. <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
#25
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I got the reference and speed sensors, I'm positive everything is disconnected. It's just that this stupid hose is in the EXACT wrong place (like everything else on this car!), so I'll just need ot people, one to hold the hose out of the way and one to pull off the housing.
Anyone know where I can find the release fork? I checked paragon, pelican, and parts bin and none of them had it.
And I'm still very curious as to what could snap thick metal like that. It happened when the clutch pedal was at the bottom of it's travel. I forgot the master cylinder lock nut, so maybe it was WAY out of adjustment and just put too much pressure on it?
I'll take a pic with my crappy webcam tommorow. It's too cold to go out in the garage now.
Anyone know where I can find the release fork? I checked paragon, pelican, and parts bin and none of them had it.
And I'm still very curious as to what could snap thick metal like that. It happened when the clutch pedal was at the bottom of it's travel. I forgot the master cylinder lock nut, so maybe it was WAY out of adjustment and just put too much pressure on it?
I'll take a pic with my crappy webcam tommorow. It's too cold to go out in the garage now.
#27
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Thanks, I'll give them a call tommorow. Anyone know what I should expect to pay for this?
From the looks of things, I need every rubber cap these cars ever had, plus the belly pan (if my car had one), and the interior panel that goes above your feet near all the fuses. Stupid PO's.
From the looks of things, I need every rubber cap these cars ever had, plus the belly pan (if my car had one), and the interior panel that goes above your feet near all the fuses. Stupid PO's.
#28
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva"> Anyone know what I should expect to pay for this?
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">About $300 +or- a few bucks
Tell Jason and Chuck at Paragon I said hey, great place to do business
You could go used... but I don't think I would risk that, you know first hand how hard it is to replace.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">About $300 +or- a few bucks
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You could go used... but I don't think I would risk that, you know first hand how hard it is to replace.
#30
Burning Brakes
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Your local Porsche dealer will be able to get the clutch fork for you, it's a part that many other sources will not carry. It probably broke as a result of metal fatigue, it's almost 20 years old after all. I would suggest disconnecting the coolant hose at the fitting at the rear of the block, behind the oil filler. The fitting is fairly high and you will lose only a small amount of coolant. Once you have removed the hose you should be able to raise it up enough to get it out of your way. Good luck Mark T.