Replacing Belts dealer or normal mechanic?
07-12-2003, 05:03 PM
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Replacing Belts dealer or normal mechanic?
Alright I tried to search for this but still need some more. 83 944 has 89 thousand on it. Want to replace all the belts, and possibly the rollers, and look at the front seals. The Porsche dealership wants around $2,000 just to change the belts, and a local place that has worked on porsches wants around $1,000 for just the belts, and $1,500 for belts and rollers. I know some of you guys have got the belts, and more done for around 5 to 600 hundred. Can I take this to a compitent mechanic and have them do this job and not worry, or should I stick with someone who has worked on our porsches and get charged quite a bit more??? Also what are all the belts, and chains if any should be done?? I'm hoping a normal good mechanic can do this job. Thanks.
07-12-2003, 05:13 PM
#2
I wouldn't risk it. To tension these belts properly requires a $400 special tool, although there are other ways. But if the tension is wrong, the belt can either snap or slip and cost you another $1500 for a rebuilt head.
That said, those prices are really, really high. And there's no way adding the rollers should cost anotehr $500. I paid $1100 for belts, rollers, waterpump, and some seals. This was at a place that only works on Porsches, and does plenty of 944's.
If you don't know the history of the car, you really, really, REALLY should get this done ASAP and also have the waterpump replaced. If that goes bad you can either A) overheat the engine or B) possibly snap the timing belt. I'd say get the front seals done while it's apart, that shouldn't add hardly anything since it'd all be apart at that point.
That said, those prices are really, really high. And there's no way adding the rollers should cost anotehr $500. I paid $1100 for belts, rollers, waterpump, and some seals. This was at a place that only works on Porsches, and does plenty of 944's.
If you don't know the history of the car, you really, really, REALLY should get this done ASAP and also have the waterpump replaced. If that goes bad you can either A) overheat the engine or B) possibly snap the timing belt. I'd say get the front seals done while it's apart, that shouldn't add hardly anything since it'd all be apart at that point.
07-12-2003, 07:11 PM
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Those prices are waaaay too high, I paid $562 to get all belts, rollers, water pump and front main seals done. There are enough listers in Mich. to probably help.
Hell, I paid $1420 to get a clutch job done with a new starter and towing charges.
Find an independant Porsche mech.
Hell, I paid $1420 to get a clutch job done with a new starter and towing charges.
Find an independant Porsche mech.
07-12-2003, 07:17 PM
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yea I dont know what to do, the price is nuts, does anyone know anyone in michigan that can handle our porsches, I live near mt. pleasant michgian. If I had the work done by a normal mechanic, and the belt snaps later, wouldn't they have to fix everything? Yea I know probably not they will just blame it on me or something. Crap.
07-12-2003, 07:46 PM
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I have been shopping here in Los Angeles (the land of low prices... NOT!) I have been quoted from $300 to $1800 and that includes two dealers. I need to do another round of calls and see what parts were included in each quote, the $300 was JUST belts and I know that is a fantasy but I was trying to get "just belts" price so I could do a price comparison. However some shops would not give me that quote. The $1800 came from a reasonable private shop, I presume he was telling me if he was going to do it I had to take the whole enchilada (belts, rollers, seals, water pump) Right now I am deliberating between a local dealer that quoted me $1000 for belts, rollers, seals or a shop about twenty miles away that got great reviews form other 944 owners.
My don't I ramble on! All that to say the estimates you got seem way high.
And yes I understand once you open up a 944 engine you will find other things that need to be fixed. No doubt that is why the one shop will only do the full job because if you try to save a few bucks by skipping a few parts then a little way down the road you blow a seal/WP/roller they have a irate customer in their face saying they did a $hitty job.
My don't I ramble on! All that to say the estimates you got seem way high.
And yes I understand once you open up a 944 engine you will find other things that need to be fixed. No doubt that is why the one shop will only do the full job because if you try to save a few bucks by skipping a few parts then a little way down the road you blow a seal/WP/roller they have a irate customer in their face saying they did a $hitty job.
07-12-2003, 09:38 PM
#6
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Um, as a gal, I just did it myself, with the help of a friend; I checked the rollers and waterpump, they were fine, so I didn't mess with them; she's not leaking on the floor either, so I am being careful.
I don't know why so many people take it all apart, we did it in like an hour, even the tensioner belt, and the a/c belt.
The instructions always say to take it all apart, um, but we just loosened them up, slipped them off, and put on the new ones, and retensioned it all.
I see no reason to yank the engine apart, unless you want to dig in it. Just made sure it was TDC on both the marks, and at the back of the engine, through the peek hole.
My car has 131K on it. If I had needed to replace the waterpump at this point, I would have taken it apart. But in the meantime, I decided to leave all alone, no leaks at the moment.
The pulleys spun without any wobble, so I left those.
The only thing I saw that could cause a problem was the shiny metal plate that has to be put in, without jamming the belt.
We did my car back in April, and so far, she's been a trooper. Just the cost of the belts; I do keep a sharp eye on her, since I am wanting to figure out what she can take.
Belts cost me like $50, or close to that.
She can't take my roommate, needs a new clutch now! Oh, it was going anyway, just a matter of time. With help, that's still going to be an all day job!
Oh, I also replaced the temp switch on the radiator, and put in a cooler one, so it never goes past halfway, and anyone driving in LA knows how important that is!
Now I have to redo the darned oil cooler! According to Porsche, something shifted, so it's leaking into the antifreeze again. I love my dealer, they even print out copies on how toos for the mechanic! Of course, the parts manager is also an enthusiast of 928s, so I have been trying to get him over here.
If you think I'm being foolish, the guy that helped me has 400k on his 951, so I think his advice is pretty solid!
If things do go wrong, well I plan on doing all the seals, headgasket, and redoing the valves in the future, since I think I just may make her into a stock racer!
I hope some of what I said helps, if at all.
- Julie
I don't know why so many people take it all apart, we did it in like an hour, even the tensioner belt, and the a/c belt.
The instructions always say to take it all apart, um, but we just loosened them up, slipped them off, and put on the new ones, and retensioned it all.
I see no reason to yank the engine apart, unless you want to dig in it. Just made sure it was TDC on both the marks, and at the back of the engine, through the peek hole.
My car has 131K on it. If I had needed to replace the waterpump at this point, I would have taken it apart. But in the meantime, I decided to leave all alone, no leaks at the moment.
The pulleys spun without any wobble, so I left those.
The only thing I saw that could cause a problem was the shiny metal plate that has to be put in, without jamming the belt.
We did my car back in April, and so far, she's been a trooper. Just the cost of the belts; I do keep a sharp eye on her, since I am wanting to figure out what she can take.
Belts cost me like $50, or close to that.
She can't take my roommate, needs a new clutch now! Oh, it was going anyway, just a matter of time. With help, that's still going to be an all day job!
Oh, I also replaced the temp switch on the radiator, and put in a cooler one, so it never goes past halfway, and anyone driving in LA knows how important that is!
Now I have to redo the darned oil cooler! According to Porsche, something shifted, so it's leaking into the antifreeze again. I love my dealer, they even print out copies on how toos for the mechanic! Of course, the parts manager is also an enthusiast of 928s, so I have been trying to get him over here.
If you think I'm being foolish, the guy that helped me has 400k on his 951, so I think his advice is pretty solid!
If things do go wrong, well I plan on doing all the seals, headgasket, and redoing the valves in the future, since I think I just may make her into a stock racer!
I hope some of what I said helps, if at all.
- Julie
07-12-2003, 10:50 PM
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yea thanks julie, I wish I could have the knowledge or ability to do that stuff, but yes, I cant lol. I will mention to them about not taking everything apart also. I have an overheating problem right now, so I told them to figure out what that is first before the timing and other belts, it sucks cause either way I will be forking out a ton of moola. Oh well, love my car, so I will do it 
, take care.
, take care.
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07-13-2003, 01:27 AM
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Julie,
It's refreshing to see a post that includes a low-cost solution to a (typically expensive) problem on these cars!
Did you use a krikit tool, or do it by hand?
Gonna have my car down rebuilding the power steering rack, so might just go for it...
Thanks
It's refreshing to see a post that includes a low-cost solution to a (typically expensive) problem on these cars!
Did you use a krikit tool, or do it by hand?
Gonna have my car down rebuilding the power steering rack, so might just go for it...
Thanks
07-13-2003, 01:29 AM
#9
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Napoleon
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Interceptor.
It's not that hard. Harder than it should be. Just print out clark's garage's instructions and go for it.
While Julies solution is valid. If you don't know the car and can afford it I would go further.
It's not that hard. Harder than it should be. Just print out clark's garage's instructions and go for it.
While Julies solution is valid. If you don't know the car and can afford it I would go further.
07-13-2003, 10:44 AM
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I have to vote for doing it yourself. It is not that hard, and quite honestly it is not astro physics. I had no zip zero nada experience working on cars (Beyond an oil change) before I did my clutch myself.
With this list, and the resources we can point you towards you can do the belts yourself. We are here to help. For what it is worth, I used the optibelt tool to tension the belts. All you need to do this job is the optibelt tool, a spanner for the balance shaft sprockets and a good set of socket and open end wrenches. I just bet that if you posted for some help, listers would respond. I turned my first belt job into a party and three listers from Houston (100 miles away) came and helped. I just returned the favor for a local lister here in Beaumont.
There is no need to pay more than parts for the belt job.
With this list, and the resources we can point you towards you can do the belts yourself. We are here to help. For what it is worth, I used the optibelt tool to tension the belts. All you need to do this job is the optibelt tool, a spanner for the balance shaft sprockets and a good set of socket and open end wrenches. I just bet that if you posted for some help, listers would respond. I turned my first belt job into a party and three listers from Houston (100 miles away) came and helped. I just returned the favor for a local lister here in Beaumont.
There is no need to pay more than parts for the belt job.
07-13-2003, 02:00 PM
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hmmmmmmm that is a good idea, I'll throw a party and anyone that will do it or help can drink free, lol . Well on another thought I visited a couple of certified mechs that are experienced with our interface, or however you say it design. They looked it up, and said it should only take about 2 1/2 hours of labor to replace the timing belt, though they never worked on a porsche before, I mentioned the special tool they might need, and told them of the high prices I was quoted, they just laughed and said no way should it cost that much, thanks for all the replys by the way, but as far as this stuff goes I just dont have the tools or the time really 
. Wish I did. Still not sure about taking it to a reg cert mechanic. Hmmmmmm a paradox.
. Well on another thought I visited a couple of certified mechs that are experienced with our interface, or however you say it design. They looked it up, and said it should only take about 2 1/2 hours of labor to replace the timing belt, though they never worked on a porsche before, I mentioned the special tool they might need, and told them of the high prices I was quoted, they just laughed and said no way should it cost that much, thanks for all the replys by the way, but as far as this stuff goes I just dont have the tools or the time really . Wish I did. Still not sure about taking it to a reg cert mechanic. Hmmmmmm a paradox.
07-13-2003, 11:18 PM
#12
Nordschleife Master
Some of the clubs will have a day locally where they help you do it!
I didn't use any tools you can't buy from Craftsman or Harbor freight; There was breaker bar and 24mm rachet that was used, that was unusual for me to see.
Basically set the tension as before. Now the balance belt also has to be done right, and you don't want that flexing too much!
You also want to double check them in 2000 miles, like everyone says.
Now for your overheating problems, lets quickly run through those:
1) is there any antifreeze leaking anywhere? If not, go to #2
2) Does your fan come on, between halfway and 3/4s on your temp gauge? If not, check your temp sensor; when you face your car, it's upper right, behind on the radiator; make sure the fuse isn't blown first. I replaced mine with a cooler switch, for the hell of it, just so it never creeps past halfway.
3) Here's one that I have now encountered on two cars, and don't see it come up very often: remove your resevoir completely, and check the return coupling! On mine, it was corroded, almost clogging it like an aorta with plaque! Just took a really big screwdriver, and routed it out, then put it back.
4) I suggest replacing the thermostat, just on being pragmatic.
5) Radiator flush! That can get rid of deposits accumulated at the bottom!
6) Then of course, the waterpump: take a look at the top of that with a flashlight, and take a look inside the weephole - if there's water, it needs to be replaced. But as in the case of my Celica last year, it ceased violently, and blew the radiator fluid out the front! Very dramatic, and gave me a little show.
If you replace the waterpump, I suggest using the turbo one, more updated.
7) Then lastly, of course, replace all the belts!
8) Suggestion only - upgrade your cooling fan to the turbo model! Much, much more airflow, due to more louvers. I have one, just haven't spent the time putting it in yet.
I have saved replacing all the seals for when I need to replace the waterpump, and/or the headgasket. I do have a pinhole leak in the camshaft rear, but not enough to yank the engine apart. My compression is pretty equal in all the pistons, at 160 psi, with only small variances on #1, being 157-160, and #4, being 160-163. Why I don't want to open the engine up, very good stats!
Look, if you need help, please get it! I'd go for the mechanic that is familiar with it, and watch!!! Learn as much as you can!
The more you know, even if you can't do it yourself, the more of an informed decision you can make.
- Julie
I didn't use any tools you can't buy from Craftsman or Harbor freight; There was breaker bar and 24mm rachet that was used, that was unusual for me to see.
Basically set the tension as before. Now the balance belt also has to be done right, and you don't want that flexing too much!
You also want to double check them in 2000 miles, like everyone says.
Now for your overheating problems, lets quickly run through those:
1) is there any antifreeze leaking anywhere? If not, go to #2
2) Does your fan come on, between halfway and 3/4s on your temp gauge? If not, check your temp sensor; when you face your car, it's upper right, behind on the radiator; make sure the fuse isn't blown first. I replaced mine with a cooler switch, for the hell of it, just so it never creeps past halfway.
3) Here's one that I have now encountered on two cars, and don't see it come up very often: remove your resevoir completely, and check the return coupling! On mine, it was corroded, almost clogging it like an aorta with plaque! Just took a really big screwdriver, and routed it out, then put it back.
4) I suggest replacing the thermostat, just on being pragmatic.
5) Radiator flush! That can get rid of deposits accumulated at the bottom!
6) Then of course, the waterpump: take a look at the top of that with a flashlight, and take a look inside the weephole - if there's water, it needs to be replaced. But as in the case of my Celica last year, it ceased violently, and blew the radiator fluid out the front! Very dramatic, and gave me a little show.
If you replace the waterpump, I suggest using the turbo one, more updated.
7) Then lastly, of course, replace all the belts!
8) Suggestion only - upgrade your cooling fan to the turbo model! Much, much more airflow, due to more louvers. I have one, just haven't spent the time putting it in yet.
I have saved replacing all the seals for when I need to replace the waterpump, and/or the headgasket. I do have a pinhole leak in the camshaft rear, but not enough to yank the engine apart. My compression is pretty equal in all the pistons, at 160 psi, with only small variances on #1, being 157-160, and #4, being 160-163. Why I don't want to open the engine up, very good stats!
Look, if you need help, please get it! I'd go for the mechanic that is familiar with it, and watch!!! Learn as much as you can!
The more you know, even if you can't do it yourself, the more of an informed decision you can make.
- Julie