Can't remove intake Manifold...
06-09-2002, 01:04 AM
#1
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Can't remove intake Manifold...
It's late and I'm really tired, so maybe I'm overlooking something obvious.
I removed the 8 allen head bolts on the intake manifold, the one on the front of the manifold, and on the dipstick tube. I can't get the manifold to budge! Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?
Also what kind of tool do you use for the allen head bolts? I fabricated something to get them off, but I can't torque them back up the same way. Also what is the torque rating for those bolts?
Thanks!
I removed the 8 allen head bolts on the intake manifold, the one on the front of the manifold, and on the dipstick tube. I can't get the manifold to budge! Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?
Also what kind of tool do you use for the allen head bolts? I fabricated something to get them off, but I can't torque them back up the same way. Also what is the torque rating for those bolts?
Thanks!
06-09-2002, 01:29 AM
#2
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There is also two allen heads at the back of the intake by the oil filler cap. As for tools, I just bought a set of metric allen wrench sockets. They work great.
Good luck,
Rob
Good luck,
Rob
06-09-2002, 10:06 AM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Torque for the intake manif. bolts is 14 lb ft.
Even after all the bolts were removed, I had to hit mine with a full size sledge hammer (although gentle) to get it to budge.
Also don't forget to unbolt and remove the fuel rail! There's 4 bolts holding that on, all 10mm hex. And there's 4 little clips on each of the injectors, pull those off as well. Then yank on the fuel rail while the intake manifold is still on because it will take quite a bit of force.
Even after all the bolts were removed, I had to hit mine with a full size sledge hammer (although gentle) to get it to budge.
Also don't forget to unbolt and remove the fuel rail! There's 4 bolts holding that on, all 10mm hex. And there's 4 little clips on each of the injectors, pull those off as well. Then yank on the fuel rail while the intake manifold is still on because it will take quite a bit of force.
06-09-2002, 10:28 AM
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I took this from Clark's Porsche 944 Garage site before it went down. I just tried the new site <a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">www.clarks-garage.com</a> but it's still not functional. So, with credit to the author:
FUEL-09, Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
Tools
· 10 mm socket/ratchet
· 12 mm socket
· 10 mm open end wrench
· Long 6 mm allen head socket / Long 6 mm hex key
· Flat tip screwdriver
Other Procedures Needed
· FUEL-02, Fuel Injector and Fuel Rail Removal and Installation
· BOLT-01, Allen Head and Cheesehead Bolt Removal
Intake Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs and move out of the way.
3. Using FUEL-02, remove the fuel rail and injectors.
4. On normally aspirated cars, remove the air intake hose from between the air flow sensor and the throttle body.
5. On turbocharged cars, remove the pipe between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body and throttle position switch electrical connector.
7. Remove the oil dipstick tube to intake manifold mounting bolt.
8. On turbocharged cars, remove the oil air separator bracket to intake manifold bolts (near oil filler tube)(2 - M6 Allen head bolts).
9. Disconnect all hoses from the intake manifold.
NOTE
On normally aspirated cars, there are hoses underneath the intake manifold which can not be disconnected from the intake until it is lifted.
10. At the back of the intake manifold, disconnect the speed and reference sensor electrical connector mounting bracket from the intake manifold by loosing the retaining bolt and sliding the bracket off.
11. Loosen the intake manifold brace bolt. On normally aspirated cars the bolt needs to be removed. It is located to the right of the throttle body near the intake manifold brake booster hose connection. On turbocharged cars, the bolt only needs to be loosened and is located to the left of the throttle body under the front edge of the intake manifold.
12. Disconnect the throttle cable.
13. If equipped, disconnect the cruise control cable from the servo unit (mounted on firewall near battery tray).
14. Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts (8 - M8 Allen head bolts) using a 6 mm Allen head socket or 6 mm hex key. A long (6") 6 mm Allen head socket works well for this application.
NOTE
The intake manifold bolts tend to bond themselves to the cylinder head making it very easy to strip the heads on the bolts. To avoid stripping the heads refer to BOLT-01 for "waking up" the bolts.
15. If the intake manifold does not lift off the head easily, strike the intake with a rubber mallet to break it free.
16. On normally aspirated cars, lift up the intake manifold and disconnect the vacuum lines on the bottom of the manifold.
17. Remove the intake manifold from the car.
Intake Installation
1. Remove the old intake manifold gaskets from the cylinder head and intake manifold using a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder head or intake manifold mating surface.
2. Apply a small amount of grease to the intake manifold gaskets to hold them in place and install the gaskets on to the cylinder head.
NOTE
Pay close attention to the orientation of the intake manifold gaskets when installing. On some cars, the gaskets are shaped identically but, must be oriented differently during installation. For example, on turbocharged cars, the #1 cylinder gasket orientation is not the same as the #2, #3, and #4 cylinders. While the gasket can be installed in the same orientation as the other cylinders and still fit, if done so, the gasket will partially block the injector flow path affecting the injector spray pattern.
3. Set the manifold into position on the cylinder head. On normally aspirated cars, attach the vacuum hoses to the bottom of the intake manifold as it is lowered into place.
4. Ensure the intake manifold lines up with the intake manifold brace. On turbocharged cars, the intake manifold is installed with the bolt already on the intake manifold. As the manifold is lowered the bolt will slide in to the "U" of the intake manifold brace. Torque the brace bolt (M8) to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
5. Install the intake manifold retaining bolts (8 - M8 Allen head) and torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
6. Connect the fuel supply and return lines.
7. Connect the vacuum line connections to the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator.
8. If equipped, connect the cruise control cable to the cruise control servo.
9. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body.
10. Connect the vacuum line to the throttle body and the electrical connector to the throttle position switch.
11. Connect the speed and reference sensor mounting bracket to the back of the intake manifold.
12. Connect all vacuum hoses to the intake manifold.
13. Install the oil dipstick tube to intake manifold mounting bolt.
14. On turbocharged cars, install the pipe between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body.
15. On normally aspirated cars, install the air intake hose between the air flow sensor and the throttle body.
16. Using FUEL-02, install the fuel rail and injectors. Route and connect the spark plug wires as the fuel rail is being installed. Check for leaks as described in FUEL-02.
FUEL-09, Intake Manifold Removal and Installation
Tools
· 10 mm socket/ratchet
· 12 mm socket
· 10 mm open end wrench
· Long 6 mm allen head socket / Long 6 mm hex key
· Flat tip screwdriver
Other Procedures Needed
· FUEL-02, Fuel Injector and Fuel Rail Removal and Installation
· BOLT-01, Allen Head and Cheesehead Bolt Removal
Intake Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs and move out of the way.
3. Using FUEL-02, remove the fuel rail and injectors.
4. On normally aspirated cars, remove the air intake hose from between the air flow sensor and the throttle body.
5. On turbocharged cars, remove the pipe between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body.
6. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body and throttle position switch electrical connector.
7. Remove the oil dipstick tube to intake manifold mounting bolt.
8. On turbocharged cars, remove the oil air separator bracket to intake manifold bolts (near oil filler tube)(2 - M6 Allen head bolts).
9. Disconnect all hoses from the intake manifold.
NOTE
On normally aspirated cars, there are hoses underneath the intake manifold which can not be disconnected from the intake until it is lifted.
10. At the back of the intake manifold, disconnect the speed and reference sensor electrical connector mounting bracket from the intake manifold by loosing the retaining bolt and sliding the bracket off.
11. Loosen the intake manifold brace bolt. On normally aspirated cars the bolt needs to be removed. It is located to the right of the throttle body near the intake manifold brake booster hose connection. On turbocharged cars, the bolt only needs to be loosened and is located to the left of the throttle body under the front edge of the intake manifold.
12. Disconnect the throttle cable.
13. If equipped, disconnect the cruise control cable from the servo unit (mounted on firewall near battery tray).
14. Remove the intake manifold retaining bolts (8 - M8 Allen head bolts) using a 6 mm Allen head socket or 6 mm hex key. A long (6") 6 mm Allen head socket works well for this application.
NOTE
The intake manifold bolts tend to bond themselves to the cylinder head making it very easy to strip the heads on the bolts. To avoid stripping the heads refer to BOLT-01 for "waking up" the bolts.
15. If the intake manifold does not lift off the head easily, strike the intake with a rubber mallet to break it free.
16. On normally aspirated cars, lift up the intake manifold and disconnect the vacuum lines on the bottom of the manifold.
17. Remove the intake manifold from the car.
Intake Installation
1. Remove the old intake manifold gaskets from the cylinder head and intake manifold using a scraper. Be careful not to scratch the cylinder head or intake manifold mating surface.
2. Apply a small amount of grease to the intake manifold gaskets to hold them in place and install the gaskets on to the cylinder head.
NOTE
Pay close attention to the orientation of the intake manifold gaskets when installing. On some cars, the gaskets are shaped identically but, must be oriented differently during installation. For example, on turbocharged cars, the #1 cylinder gasket orientation is not the same as the #2, #3, and #4 cylinders. While the gasket can be installed in the same orientation as the other cylinders and still fit, if done so, the gasket will partially block the injector flow path affecting the injector spray pattern.
3. Set the manifold into position on the cylinder head. On normally aspirated cars, attach the vacuum hoses to the bottom of the intake manifold as it is lowered into place.
4. Ensure the intake manifold lines up with the intake manifold brace. On turbocharged cars, the intake manifold is installed with the bolt already on the intake manifold. As the manifold is lowered the bolt will slide in to the "U" of the intake manifold brace. Torque the brace bolt (M8) to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
5. Install the intake manifold retaining bolts (8 - M8 Allen head) and torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
6. Connect the fuel supply and return lines.
7. Connect the vacuum line connections to the fuel damper and fuel pressure regulator.
8. If equipped, connect the cruise control cable to the cruise control servo.
9. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body.
10. Connect the vacuum line to the throttle body and the electrical connector to the throttle position switch.
11. Connect the speed and reference sensor mounting bracket to the back of the intake manifold.
12. Connect all vacuum hoses to the intake manifold.
13. Install the oil dipstick tube to intake manifold mounting bolt.
14. On turbocharged cars, install the pipe between the intercooler outlet and the throttle body.
15. On normally aspirated cars, install the air intake hose between the air flow sensor and the throttle body.
16. Using FUEL-02, install the fuel rail and injectors. Route and connect the spark plug wires as the fuel rail is being installed. Check for leaks as described in FUEL-02.
06-09-2002, 10:32 AM
#5
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Now, as for special tools. I took a long 6mm hex key and cut the handle off. This gave me about a 5" 6mm hex rod. I placed the cut end into 6mm socket and created a great tool for removing and installing the hex bolts.
Later,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Later,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
06-09-2002, 10:45 AM
#6
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Eeek, a sledge hammer??? I went with a rubber mallet. And it wouldn't budge until I too located the bolt at the back of the manifold. But once I found it, a slight tap with the mallet broke it lose from the gasket.
06-09-2002, 11:04 AM
#7
Nordschleife Master
[quote]Originally posted by TomH:
<strong>Eeek, a sledge hammer??? I went with a rubber mallet. And it wouldn't budge until I too located the bolt at the back of the manifold. But once I found it, a slight tap with the mallet broke it lose from the gasket.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yup...a sledge...
We could grab the intake manifold to try to remove it...and the entire engine/car would shake...It was ON there.
<strong>Eeek, a sledge hammer??? I went with a rubber mallet. And it wouldn't budge until I too located the bolt at the back of the manifold. But once I found it, a slight tap with the mallet broke it lose from the gasket.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Yup...a sledge...
We could grab the intake manifold to try to remove it...and the entire engine/car would shake...It was ON there.
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06-09-2002, 01:04 PM
#8
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Sledge hammer huh. Kinda brings new meaning to the term "sheer force"! I soaked mine with penetrating oil over night and was able to remove all of them with out any trouble at all. 
06-09-2002, 01:07 PM
#9
Nordschleife Master
[quote]Originally posted by icat:
<strong>Sledge hammer huh. Kinda brings new meaning to the term "sheer force"! I soaked mine with penetrating oil over night and was able to remove all of them with out any trouble at all. </strong><hr></blockquote>
My bolts came out no problem...Just the intake manifold gaskets managed to glue the intake manifold to the cam tower...or whatever that is.
Well, we were gentle with the sledge hammer
Not all out bashing, little taps with it. 
<strong>Sledge hammer huh. Kinda brings new meaning to the term "sheer force"! I soaked mine with penetrating oil over night and was able to remove all of them with out any trouble at all.
</strong><hr></blockquote>My bolts came out no problem...Just the intake manifold gaskets managed to glue the intake manifold to the cam tower...or whatever that is.
Well, we were gentle with the sledge hammer
Not all out bashing, little taps with it.
06-09-2002, 01:23 PM
#10
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[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>
My bolts came out no problem...Just the intake manifold gaskets managed to glue the intake manifold to the cam tower...or whatever that is.
Well, we were gentle with the sledge hammer Not all out bashing, little taps with it. </strong><hr></blockquote>
Probably why I didn't have that much trouble, my gaskets were blown out already! Man, talk about your vaccuum leak - with a blown gasket I was reading ZERO!
<strong>
My bolts came out no problem...Just the intake manifold gaskets managed to glue the intake manifold to the cam tower...or whatever that is.
Well, we were gentle with the sledge hammer
Not all out bashing, little taps with it. </strong><hr></blockquote>Probably why I didn't have that much trouble, my gaskets were blown out already! Man, talk about your vaccuum leak - with a blown gasket I was reading ZERO!
06-09-2002, 08:09 PM
#11
Drifting
[quote] NOTE
Pay close attention to the orientation of the intake manifold gaskets when installing. On some cars, the gaskets are shaped identically but, must be oriented differently during installation. For example, on turbocharged cars, the #1 cylinder gasket orientation is not the same as the #2, #3, and #4 cylinders. While the gasket can be installed in the same orientation as the other cylinders and still fit, if done so, the gasket will partially block the injector flow path affecting the injector spray pattern.
<hr></blockquote>
Uh oh, did you guys orient the #1 gasket differently than the others? I don't remember doing so when I replaced the intake manifold
Pay close attention to the orientation of the intake manifold gaskets when installing. On some cars, the gaskets are shaped identically but, must be oriented differently during installation. For example, on turbocharged cars, the #1 cylinder gasket orientation is not the same as the #2, #3, and #4 cylinders. While the gasket can be installed in the same orientation as the other cylinders and still fit, if done so, the gasket will partially block the injector flow path affecting the injector spray pattern.
<hr></blockquote>
Uh oh, did you guys orient the #1 gasket differently than the others? I don't remember doing so when I replaced the intake manifold
06-09-2002, 09:30 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by sm:
<strong>
Uh oh, did you guys orient the #1 gasket differently than the others? I don't remember doing so when I replaced the intake manifold </strong><hr></blockquote>
I "test" fit mine and then lowered the manifold down onto the gaskets. I'm sure I would have noticed if there was a blockage.
<strong>
Uh oh, did you guys orient the #1 gasket differently than the others? I don't remember doing so when I replaced the intake manifold
</strong><hr></blockquote>I "test" fit mine and then lowered the manifold down onto the gaskets. I'm sure I would have noticed if there was a blockage.
