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Greasing manual steering rack?

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Old 01-19-2009, 11:48 AM
  #16  
PorscheDoc
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Originally Posted by Voith
what about free play in manual rack? is there any cure to that problem? I think mine has about an inch or so on the wheel.
Free play is usually due to worn intermediate shaft joints. The rack is a geared system, so there can't really be any play in it. The problem is that the manual steering intermediate shafts are no longer available, though there are some other options out there.
Old 01-19-2009, 07:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Spidey944
Arent you runing a power rack with no hoses??? LOL. That does not count Spencer....
My own car has a fluidless power rack, yes.

But about 2 weeks ago I had a manual rack that I wanted but sold to another RLer (needed money for school books) and prior to shipping I took it apart, cleaned it all and regreased it. Very easy job, much easier than rebuilding the power rack (and later finding out that it wasn't the rack that was leaking , then giving up because you don't really care about PS anyways )
Old 01-20-2009, 06:47 AM
  #18  
Voith
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Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
Free play is usually due to worn intermediate shaft joints. The rack is a geared system, so there can't really be any play in it. The problem is that the manual steering intermediate shafts are no longer available, though there are some other options out there.
thanks. I dissasembled the steering system and one joint on the shaft was allmost unmoveable. a lot of wd40 made it a little better but its still not good.

there is one company here in slovenia that remanufacture those shafts, so I'll probably send it there..

http://www.prekom.si/English/presentation_porsche.html
Old 01-21-2009, 02:04 PM
  #19  
alex
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Originally Posted by rosco
My manual steering rack has some "cuts" when turning. It started few days ago. Turning wheels isnt smooth anymore. Can new grease help or is this racks life over? We had temps like -20 celsius,now about zero degrees.
Most likely the intermediate shaft is not moving freely. I had the same problem, sprayed some wd40 on the 2 u joints and it is still fine about a year later. I had it off yesterday, as a matter of fact, straightening out my steering wheel, and was surprised at how well it was moving.
Old 01-22-2009, 09:16 AM
  #20  
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I found this company yesterday, and talked to the owner, he said he can change crossjoints on the intermediate shaft no problem. I'll send him the whole steering rack, since it must be set for later offset.. I'll post pictures when it'll be done.

and while I was there I bought a set of renewed front arms for my bmw I'll change them tomorrow

Old 01-22-2009, 10:31 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by PorscheDoc
You could probably drill, tap, and install a grease fitting in the body of the rack without a problem. the rack slides through a bushing on the passenger side, so there should be plenty of clearance to install a fitting without it bottoming out on internal shaft.
No need to drill or tap anything or risk getting swarf inside.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.

Most wear on the rack shaft will occur in the middle section, since that area is used frequently, with less at the ends. Pre load adjustment is via the small head bolt on the front plate, after loosening the lock nut. May take a little trial and error to achieve the best compromise between slacker center steering and tighter at more lock.
Old 01-22-2009, 12:23 PM
  #22  
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No need to drill or tap anything or risk getting swarf inside.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
Thats what I was thinking! Thanks.
Old 01-22-2009, 12:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by RC924
No need to drill or tap anything or risk getting swarf inside.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.

Most wear on the rack shaft will occur in the middle section, since that area is used frequently, with less at the ends. Pre load adjustment is via the small head bolt on the front plate, after loosening the lock nut. May take a little trial and error to achieve the best compromise between slacker center steering and tighter at more lock.
Yea, if you can find a grease fitting with those threads, that would work just fine. Didn't realize they came that big
Old 01-22-2009, 01:12 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by alex
Most likely the intermediate shaft is not moving freely. I had the same problem, sprayed some wd40 on the 2 u joints and it is still fine about a year later. I had it off yesterday, as a matter of fact, straightening out my steering wheel, and was surprised at how well it was moving.

Sorry for my stupidity,but what part i must touch with some lubricant?
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...+steering-9441

EDIT: Ok,understood. I have also free play,so i must change these U joints.

Last edited by rosco; 01-22-2009 at 06:56 PM.
Old 01-22-2009, 04:20 PM
  #25  
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Mcmaster Carr PN# 2250K18 $3.52 Stainless steel.



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