Greasing manual steering rack?
#16
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Free play is usually due to worn intermediate shaft joints. The rack is a geared system, so there can't really be any play in it. The problem is that the manual steering intermediate shafts are no longer available, though there are some other options out there.
#17
Rainman
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But about 2 weeks ago I had a manual rack that I wanted but sold to another RLer (needed money for school books) and prior to shipping I took it apart, cleaned it all and regreased it. Very easy job, much easier than rebuilding the power rack (and later finding out that it wasn't the rack that was leaking , then giving up because you don't really care about PS anyways )
#18
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there is one company here in slovenia that remanufacture those shafts, so I'll probably send it there..
http://www.prekom.si/English/presentation_porsche.html
#19
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Most likely the intermediate shaft is not moving freely. I had the same problem, sprayed some wd40 on the 2 u joints and it is still fine about a year later. I had it off yesterday, as a matter of fact, straightening out my steering wheel, and was surprised at how well it was moving.
#20
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I found this company yesterday, and talked to the owner, he said he can change crossjoints on the intermediate shaft no problem. I'll send him the whole steering rack, since it must be set for later offset.. I'll post pictures when it'll be done.
and while I was there I bought a set of renewed front arms for my bmw I'll change them tomorrow
and while I was there I bought a set of renewed front arms for my bmw I'll change them tomorrow
#21
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
Most wear on the rack shaft will occur in the middle section, since that area is used frequently, with less at the ends. Pre load adjustment is via the small head bolt on the front plate, after loosening the lock nut. May take a little trial and error to achieve the best compromise between slacker center steering and tighter at more lock.
#22
No need to drill or tap anything or risk getting swarf inside.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
#23
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No need to drill or tap anything or risk getting swarf inside.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
Most wear on the rack shaft will occur in the middle section, since that area is used frequently, with less at the ends. Pre load adjustment is via the small head bolt on the front plate, after loosening the lock nut. May take a little trial and error to achieve the best compromise between slacker center steering and tighter at more lock.
Remove the little cap, if its still there, that plugs the hole for the tapered centering bolt. The thread is M10x1 and zerk fittings in that size are available at bearing shops or FLAPS. In a pinch a 1/8 NPT will also fit, but dont overtighten. Pump in a thin grade or molly grease.
Most wear on the rack shaft will occur in the middle section, since that area is used frequently, with less at the ends. Pre load adjustment is via the small head bolt on the front plate, after loosening the lock nut. May take a little trial and error to achieve the best compromise between slacker center steering and tighter at more lock.
#24
Most likely the intermediate shaft is not moving freely. I had the same problem, sprayed some wd40 on the 2 u joints and it is still fine about a year later. I had it off yesterday, as a matter of fact, straightening out my steering wheel, and was surprised at how well it was moving.
Sorry for my stupidity,but what part i must touch with some lubricant?
http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...+steering-9441
EDIT: Ok,understood. I have also free play,so i must change these U joints.
Last edited by rosco; 01-22-2009 at 06:56 PM.