All of a sudden it's become extremely difficult to shift gears in the S2 cab. Pedal feels the same, albeit a bit "dry" but otherwise I can't notice any difference.

I believe the clutch was replaced on this car at around 110K. It now has 138K.

Going to bleed the hydraulics and go from there. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

 

could be your transmission fluid,but i might be wrong.

 

I'd change your transmission fluid first, before digging into it, or the clutch; I'd suggest Redline transmission fluid, the best prevention I know!

- Julie

 

Luis
How is the linkage feeling: still free play in there while shifting with switched off engine?
(Linkage not frozen?)
If no, problem is most probably clutch or inside tranny (both expensive).
If yes, inspect the linkage starting under the lever working your way to the in-going shaft of the tranny. Check every bolt/joint/...
If low on oil, check the cooler, you will lose oil while driving only, so it will go unnoticed.
The cooler tube is thin wall aluminum, suspect any irregular change in shape here.
The connections to the tranny housing can easily be damaged.
If leaking there, it just leaves an dirty mark on the housing, nothing on the floor of the garage.
TakeCare

 

Hans, I'm going to double check this, but as I recall from driving it this AM the shifter doesn't feel sloppy and I can shift into all gears sitting still with the engine off.

Ever since I bought this car in '99, the second gear has made a grinding noise occasionally when shifting very quickly. So perhaps a synchro is causing the problem?

I'm suspecting the clutch myself, but it's strange that it should go out so soon, as I have not abused it. I guess the PO replaced it with a POS rubber-centered one. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

 

I have seen cases where the disk gets stuck on the input shaft and remains in contact with the flywheel even when the clutch is disengaged. This condition feels like a 951 with a broken damper spring, sticky shift and difficulty shifting into first or reverse with the car running. It usually happens when the installer either doesn't lube the shaft or uses something that solidifies over time.

 

Something else that is simple is the shifter bushing could be binding also. I always try to check the easiest and cheapest thing first. With these cars you can always spend the money later....take the upper pc of the console out and check everything under there first; maybe you'll get lucky.

 

Luis, I had this happen without warning to my 88 TS. Everyone on Rennlist and the local Porsche dealer seemed to conclude I must have thrown one of the clutch disk springs and it jammed. I drove the car some more, double clutching it, and the problem seems to be going away.

So, I'm not sure if I ground up a thrown spring. But someone mentioned dripping coolant down the damn bellhousing inspection hole and having that freeze up the bearing surfaces. This may have happened to me because I did remove the heater hose and am sure some fluid went down the inspection hole. The car then sat in the garage for a month and when I finally went to move it - near impossible shifting.

So if you got water in around the inspection hole from cleaning the engine, etc., this is another possible cause.

 

Come to think of it I have washed the engine at least 2 times in the past 6 months. It was with a pressure hose and I failed to cover the GD inspection hole... Aaaargh!

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Luis de Prat:
<strong>Hans, I'm going to double check this, but as I recall from driving it this AM the shifter doesn't feel sloppy and I can shift into all gears sitting still with the engine off.

Ever since I bought this car in '99, the second gear has made a grinding noise occasionally when shifting very quickly. So perhaps a synchro is causing the problem?

I'm suspecting the clutch myself, but it's strange that it should go out so soon, as I have not abused it. I guess the PO replaced it with a POS rubber-centered one. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">OK, that may eliminate the shifter linkage.
To check clutch, while at standstill on a level surface, no brake applied AND no throttle, step on the clutch and engage first gear. Does the car "jump" forward or is RPM dropping, then clutch may be suspect.
Note that the PO might have had the disc replaced only and re-used the pressure plate, fork, bearings etc. One of those gone and you are heading toward some time under the car..*).
The bad synchro on 2th should not give hard shifting in all the gears, you either cant get it in 2th (but you should be able to get it out to neutral) or you cant shift at all (tranny locked in 2th and will not permit to engage another gear).
If something is wrong inside I would suspect the shifter forks first.
Lets try the cheap solutions frist, check for oil in the tranny.
You need SAE 75, GL-4 hypoid oil, just less than 3 liter.
GL-5 seems to do nasty things to the (brass) synchro's)
Tool: 17 mm alan key (socket preferred)to remove the plug.
TakeCare

 

If it were the clutch, you'd hear grinding or clacking gears. I'd guess it's something else.

 

Agree with ski ;check the clutch fork .If you change fluid in the trans, Remember the GOLDEN RULE. Remove fill plug first before draining as these sob's occastionally are frozen in and tough to get out.Now you have an empty trans.

 

Thanks guys. I'm going to poke around in the car during the weekend and see what I find. By clutch fork are you referring to the pedal assembly, or by something related to the shifter itself?