Where Do Fuel Rails Fail?
#1
Burning Brakes
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I have seen comments around the 944 Cup and Spec world about fuel rail failure or leakage. Lindsey makes a beautiful biller set-up, but it's $589.
So, what I'm wondering is if there is a common failure poitn and if a stock rail can be reenforced or braced to eliminate the potential problem. The fittinjg are brazed on, but have a professional welder do the work should be a viable options.
Anyone?
So, what I'm wondering is if there is a common failure poitn and if a stock rail can be reenforced or braced to eliminate the potential problem. The fittinjg are brazed on, but have a professional welder do the work should be a viable options.
Anyone?
Last edited by North Coast Cab; 12-29-2013 at 08:08 AM.
#5
Hey Man
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I'm a firm believer the possible reason they fail there is because many people try to use the brackets and mounting bolts to seat the injectors rather than lubing the o-rings well first and pushing the rail down as far as it will go before bolting. The many times I've worked on the rail I've been able to get the brackets within about 1/32" before having to install the bolts. I would assume that bad motor mounts and improper balance shaft timing contribute also.
#6
Advanced
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The brazing on the mounting points become weak from many years of vibration and by the mounts getting torqued when trying to get the regulators and damper off.
jamie@944online.com
jamie@944online.com
#7
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Mine broke at the brazing spot on the rear mounting bracket, as Doug and Dan said. I also used my fuel rail to seat my injector o-rings like Steve is talking about, so that may be why it crapped out.
Though I don't like the metal much on that thing anyway, cause the tab that holds the dampener on pretty much cracked all the way through and is now pretty useless.
Though I don't like the metal much on that thing anyway, cause the tab that holds the dampener on pretty much cracked all the way through and is now pretty useless.
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#8
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I'm surprised to hear that this is so common. Did you guys catch it weeping (by smell, I assume?), or actually have a fire? I would think that at 35-45psi, you'd get a fire pretty quick!
#10
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If you don't get the hose kit, I'm pretty sure the Lindsey kit is less than $600. You'll need to buy/make your own hydraulic hoses, but that can be done for less than the Lindsey kit costs if you buy individual components and do the work yourself. FWIW though, depending on how much experience you have with them, hydraulic hoses can be a pain to assemble properly, and given the high risk nature of fuel lines (eg leak can cause fire/explosion/painful death), spending the extra $$ to have them built professionally by Lindsey or someone else might be worth it
And, last but not least, the Lindsey rail looks damn good under the hood
And, last but not least, the Lindsey rail looks damn good under the hood
#11
Race Director
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I noticed one with hairline cracks and dampness.
The other was pretty bad and caused a puddle of fuel under the car. The engine was cold so no fire.
#13
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No, I pressed that one in. I think I only did that with mine once back when I did the first head gasket job because I was sticking in my larger injectors (which I then removed and went back to stock before even using).
I figured out mine was leaking because it was quite literally spraying fuel all over my engine (large puddles on the intake and in the v between the block and balance shaft housing), but luckily my reference sensors aren't reading and I wasn't getting any spark so nothing caught on fire.
I figured out mine was leaking because it was quite literally spraying fuel all over my engine (large puddles on the intake and in the v between the block and balance shaft housing), but luckily my reference sensors aren't reading and I wasn't getting any spark so nothing caught on fire.