Hey guys, I was just wondering about how long it's going to take me to pull the head off my 85.5 944 n/a and what tools exactly I'm going to need? I really want to get started on this because my car has been sitting there for almost a year now due to lack of time to work on it... so I'm pretty anxious to get started.

So what tools do I need... how difficult is the job? I don't have a manual (couldn't find a haynes 944 manual anywhere, and I don't have the pdf format of the factory manuals anymore) so if anyone could list what to do step by step that'd be great.

Hopefully I should start this Thursday. Also, what else should I look at while I have the head off. I'm a college student and don't have much money besides what my parents are willing to help with...

I'm pretty sure it's a valve, so I was thinking of maybe port and polishing the head, get a valve job done and replace whatever is causing the problem. Should I do head gasket? belts i was also thinking of doing cause I have no idea when they were done last.

Sorry for the long post but I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out. If anyone near SF (bay area) wanted to get together and help out maybe we could make a day of it?

 

When you take the head off you have to replace the head gasket with a new one and you are suppose to replace the head studs also. <a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com</a> is a very good place for procedures.

 

Joe,

I posted a lengthy how to on this on one of these boards a couple months ago...I'll try to fish it up.

As for the head studs..if they show corrosion, then definately replace them. If they have solid exterior, then I would re use them. I have done so many headgaskets that I could not count them, and only a few times have I been requested to change the studs by the customer. Infact, the ALL PORSCHE machine shop I use for block prep, will send me the old studs back with notes saying whether or not they are re usable, or need to be replaced, and most times, they say to re use them.

I have never had a problem as a result of using the existing studs.

Take Care, and I'll shop for that post of mine.

 

Joe, I found the topic. I notice you have a NA, this was for a turbo, but it should get you thru most of it. Please post any questions and I'll watch this thread to help in any way I can.

Here is a link to the original thread also.


<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?" target="_blank">http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?</a>

Good Luck!


" posted 06-29-2002 20:32
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I assume you have the intake manifold off, since you mentioned that you have stripped your motor to the block...if so, then...
remove the timing belt from the cam gear, if you have an auto tension car, then loosen the two 13mm nuts on the front of the autotensioner, and push downward on the part of the tensioner that holds the tension sprocket, this will collaps the tensioner, while holding the tension in the collapsed position, ( I use a big bar for this pushing and holding method) tighten the top 13mm nut you loosened. This will not keep the tensioner collaped, and allow you to slide the belt off the pully.

Remove the rotor and cap assembly, this is pretty tight work on the bottom screw that holds the cap on. The top screw is easy to get at, the bottom is tough, I used to use a shorty screw driver, then I just bought a cheap flat head, put a 90 degree bend in it, and that made the job a lot easier :-)

Once you have the cap off, you will need to pull the rotor off, this is attached to the cam with an 8mm bolt, remove the bolt (and sleep with it, you don't want to loose it) and the rotor can be worked off. If it gets sticky, then plan to replace it, and use pliers to work it back and forth while putting outword force on it.


Take the aluminum gear cover off the front of the cam housing, this is held by three 10mm bolts, one is outside on the top left of the cover, the other two are located inside and to the lower drivers side. Use a small slot head to pry it from the rear section of the cover, it will be a little stubborn, but it comes off. Slide the timing belt off the cam gear now.

Remove the two small 10mm bolts that hold the rear section of the cam gear housing to the back of the timing belt cover, these are located bottom drivers side, and to the back.

Pull the hose clamp off the power steering resevoir, and move the resevoir out of your way, you need this space for the removal of the cam house and head. I just move it slightly forward infront of the cam gear area.

Using vise grips, clamp the ends of the water lines feeding the hardpipe that runs the length of the cam housing over the headers. Remove the hose clamps on either side and slide the hoses off.

On the top/rear/drivers side of the head, you will see the fitting for the water heater. Its easier to just remove the hose that fits on the end of the fitting, some remove the fitting, but its a little tight for that.

Remove the water fitting for the bleed bolt on the front/drivers side of the head, its heald by a series of 6mm allen socket bolts. The hard pipe that is connected to that fitting will also need to be removed to clear the head. Its held it place at the bend by a 10mm bolt attatched to the engine lift bracket.

NOw, using an 8mm allen socket, take the cam housing plugs out, these are the big aluminum plugs on the top of the housing. You can toss the aluminum washers, you get new ones with your head gasget kit.

Using a long 6mm allen socket (snap on), pull the allen bolts that hold the cam housing to the head. I start in the middle and work my way oput slowly. I lossen them all at first, then lossen each one in order (your order, just do it evenly), repeat this untill there is no tension on any of the bolts. The cam hosing will pop up on its own when your getting close to the end of the process.

Gently lift the cam housing up and tilt it towards the passenger side at the same time, this will keep the lifters from falling out and rolling all over your floor. I try to use as swift a motion as possible for this operation. If you drop a few lifters don't panic, but try to keep them in the same order as they are set in the housing originally.

At this point you should have a head looking at you, with oil running down the side of your block (this oil will soak inot the header lining and will smoke like hell on start up when your done, don't worry, but start the car outside of your garage)

Take the bolts out of the header crossover flanges (collector), this allows you to pull the head and the headers at the same time, many hours of cussing are saved this way!@^$#^^*^*^%$!!!!!! If one or two bolts are stubborn and you cant free them from the flange due to tension at the junction, dont worry, leave them be, when you loosen the head, the tension will leave, and you can pluck themn out then.

NOw, loosen the head nuts, I don't know how to do a diagram here, so I'll trust someon will, or that you might already know the pattern :-)

Lift the head out, it might need a bit of prying at the pry points, then gently work it with the headers attatched, until it comes out, its not that tough.

I hope that I did not miss much here, but I'm sure the cllective on this list will fill in the blanks for you if needed :-)

Take Care!"

 

If you havn't done it before you may want to have someone to help you out with it. Definitely have a manual because you sound like you are new to replacing heads in general. Have all the nuts and bolts in small bags in a bigger box with labels since you are new to this and will save you time when you are reinstalling and not get mixed up. I have done head gaskets (doing one right now on a 88 turbo s) and if all goes right should take one afternoon. I just replaced the timing belt and then blew a head gasket so I am replacing the head gasket without taking any belts off (just have to retention the timing belt). N/A heads are much easier and if you need valves I think the cheapest way is to get a good used head for $100 or so on ebay and $60 on a head gasket set with timing belt, balance shaft belt, and rollers (around $119 for the belt and tensioner set). If you have extra money then have the old head ported and valve job and maybe even shaved for higher compression, but will cost you more than a good used head. Its really an economic and personal preference decision. Good luck and when in doubt post on the list and there are plenty of nice people who can help you with specifically what to do.

 

Cool, thanks for the help guys. Yeah I'm going to get started tomorrow, working in the driveway sucks heheh but at least I have a driveway.

Oh also I'll have my dad working on it with me. He's more of a v8 guy but I'm sure the two of us will be able to manage.

 

Oh also, on shaving the head, what would you recommend having done?

 

[quote]Originally posted by Joe944:
<strong>Oh also, on shaving the head, what would you recommend having done?</strong><hr></blockquote>

There is an interesting thread in the off-topic forum answering that question.. (Very OT)

 

Hah, very funny =D

 

You will need a long 6mm Allen tool to get the bolts out of the cam tower, but that's really the only "special" tool involved (besides maybe the cam belt tensioning tools...). I cut down a spare allen key and stuck it in a 6mm socket for torquing purposes.

What head work you will want done depends on your budget and whatever might be wrong with it. Valve guides are cheap (~US$3), valves are not (~US$60). Springs are outlandish (~US$75).

Here is a trustworthy guide to head nut <a href="http://pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.asp?id={DA8667D9-7C0E-4CA9-805E-DB8C2A15E511}" target="_blank">torque.</a>

One thing that will make your life easier: Hit every exposed bolt and nut (especially exhaust) with WD40 or similar penetrating oil a day before you start!

 

As far as head stud torqing, I read George's specs...I don't know about that, sounds like he used a torque wrench to measure the 20/90/90 spec. I would stay with the updated specs and go 20lbs, then 90 degrees then another 90 degrees.

Shaving the head will raise the compression, but unless you go maybe .05 or more I doubt its noticeable. I'd spend the money on a stock rebuild first, that will pay dividends down the road. Infact, on our race car, I'm finding a compression loss thru the head and valve assembly. we read 280psi on #1,3,4 and 250psi on the number 2, after tracking the issue down, its going thru the valve seat. Get your head freshened up :-)

Take Care

 

Yeah I would rebuild the motor before I did anything like that. For performance though I was thinking about dropping in one of your motors once I get the cash (probably summer). It'd be a learning experience too. I've helped dropping in chevy v8's in friends cars but haven't done much with the 944 engine yet.

 

Ok well while I'm down there heres the stuff that I was planning on replacing as well. Is there anything else I should look into? My parents have agreed to help me out with getting it done. Everything here is from Paragon except for the water pump because I didn't see it on their website. I'll call and ask though before I order so I can get it all from the same place. This water pump was from pelican, but is there anywhere else that sells em for cheaper maybe?

Not going to order this until I get the head pulled anyways. I figure that I'm going to have to bring the head to a shop to get a valve job done (how much does that usually run?) anyways. I do know a guy who owns a speed shop (Bob Anderson in the Bay Area) who I'm friends with and might be able to get me a good deal on that.

Front Engine Reseal Kit $67.16
Head Gasket Set $71.05
Balance Shaft Tensioner $24.23
Balance Shaft Roller $30.80
Balance Shaft Belt $43.77
Timing Belt Roller $19.11
Timing Belt Tensioner $24.51
Timing Belt $32.24
Water Pump (Rebuilt) $129.95

Thanks for all your help guys. Wish I knew more about 944 engines.

 

Oh, one more thing, what's the compression supposed to be stock at premium efficiency levels? When I did a compression test a while back I got 150 on 3 holes and 120 on the other (forget which one cause it's been a while but I think it was hole #2).

Is 150 the right value? I've heard different numbers. Thanks.

 

When I redid my head (early 85) I also did the oil cooler seals. Having the exhaust gone gave me more room.

As far as compression --after the headgasket(replaced because of a pesky oil leak on the backside of the head) it was between 140 and 150 on all cylinders.

John --what kind of compression are you running? That's quite a squeeze ya got there!!