So I'm gonna tackle a basic tuneup (wires/plugs/distrib).
12-24-2008, 02:18 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Suburban DC
Posts: 2,641
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I'm gonna tackle a basic tuneup (wires/plugs/distrib).
I hate to be so profoundly naive, but I was wondering if anyone had some highly detailed wisdom on doing this. I have the Clarks-Garage.com piece and that covers a lot.
My questions are pretty basic.
What sequence do you use to remove / replace stuff (distrib cap, rotor, wires)?
Is the original wire routing going to work with somewhat fatter aftermarket wires?
Any other tricks or common snags?
My questions are pretty basic.
What sequence do you use to remove / replace stuff (distrib cap, rotor, wires)?
Is the original wire routing going to work with somewhat fatter aftermarket wires?
Any other tricks or common snags?
12-24-2008, 03:42 PM
#2
Odd Posts
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I am assuming that you have never done so before. Clark's is really good.
The distributor cap is a PITA to remove due to the locking screws. Be patient, I used his method and not the 90 degree bent screwdriver - IIRC the forse required to depress the springs is significant. Make sure you have a new gasket and dust cap.
The rotor can be even more of a PITA to remove and will likely self destruct in the process. The heat cycles tend to cause it to bond to the shaft, almost like a weld. I have used a little PB Blaster, careful use of a dead blow hammer and large screw driver to loosen (or shatter the Bakelite) and vice-grips to twist off.
Original routing should work, but you will need larger wire clips Make sure you label the wires to the right location on the distributor to prevent making wrong connection.
Before removing the plug wires, I always blow off the area with compressed air to make sure that there is as little debris to potentially fall into the open plug hole. Then I remove the wires and vacuum the area to suck up anything that might be around the plug, then I remove the plugs. Be careful when reinstalling not to cross thread them.
The distributor cap is a PITA to remove due to the locking screws. Be patient, I used his method and not the 90 degree bent screwdriver - IIRC the forse required to depress the springs is significant. Make sure you have a new gasket and dust cap.
The rotor can be even more of a PITA to remove and will likely self destruct in the process. The heat cycles tend to cause it to bond to the shaft, almost like a weld. I have used a little PB Blaster, careful use of a dead blow hammer and large screw driver to loosen (or shatter the Bakelite) and vice-grips to twist off.
Original routing should work, but you will need larger wire clips Make sure you label the wires to the right location on the distributor to prevent making wrong connection.
Before removing the plug wires, I always blow off the area with compressed air to make sure that there is as little debris to potentially fall into the open plug hole. Then I remove the wires and vacuum the area to suck up anything that might be around the plug, then I remove the plugs. Be careful when reinstalling not to cross thread them.
12-25-2008, 12:40 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
when taking the distributor cap off, the two screws need alot of force to remove. remember lefty-loosey, righty-tighty?? WRONG its vice-wersa to remove.
the rotor is a pain in the *** to remove as well. its literally stuck on and it takes ALOT of force to remove it. according to haynes manual, it says to "tap" it off. i actually used a flathead screwdriver and the rotor itself as leverage to remove it slowly but before that, you must take off the little allen head screw or screw that holds the rotor in place. if the screw is facing the bottom, or facing a direction that is a pain in the ***, put the cap back on and turn the car on and turn it off and hopefully itll be in the right place again.
as for order of operation, i did plugs, one at a time, then the wire, then the cap and rotor then i started and test drove and let idle. try to follow them to the original way the 944 originally had it in order, under the intake manifold. its the best way imo. good luck !!
the rotor is a pain in the *** to remove as well. its literally stuck on and it takes ALOT of force to remove it. according to haynes manual, it says to "tap" it off. i actually used a flathead screwdriver and the rotor itself as leverage to remove it slowly but before that, you must take off the little allen head screw or screw that holds the rotor in place. if the screw is facing the bottom, or facing a direction that is a pain in the ***, put the cap back on and turn the car on and turn it off and hopefully itll be in the right place again.
as for order of operation, i did plugs, one at a time, then the wire, then the cap and rotor then i started and test drove and let idle. try to follow them to the original way the 944 originally had it in order, under the intake manifold. its the best way imo. good luck !!
12-25-2008, 02:10 AM
#5
Drifting
I can get the distributer cap off in a couple seconds. It's actually easy once you know how it works..... clarks is good for that.
the rotor breaks easily and you have to be careful not to strip that tiny bolt that holds it on. Also use loctite to put that bolt on as I was told it has a tendency to back out.
the rotor breaks easily and you have to be careful not to strip that tiny bolt that holds it on. Also use loctite to put that bolt on as I was told it has a tendency to back out.
12-25-2008, 09:57 AM
#6
Also when you reinsert the rotor, make sure it is tight. I had the screw come off on me and the car wouldnt turn over. I believe there is some loctite on the screw..can anyone confirm?
12-25-2008, 03:21 PM
#7
Herr Unmöglich
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
As these guys have said, it's a small challenge but not HARD.
Just take your time and don't force it. Once you get the hang of the dist. cap screws you'll be fine. I just use a flathead stubby screwdriver when I do mine. Just be gentle but firm, and you'll be fine.
Just take your time and don't force it. Once you get the hang of the dist. cap screws you'll be fine. I just use a flathead stubby screwdriver when I do mine. Just be gentle but firm, and you'll be fine.
Trending Topics
12-25-2008, 04:06 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
The rotor on our 86 consists of two pieces that are glued together. One piece is machined metal
I bought the whole replacement unit, cost over $100. It is possible to buy the plastic piece only.
Am not sure if this will be your situation or not, just check and be sure if your's is similar and if so, decide how to approach it.
I bought the whole replacement unit, cost over $100. It is possible to buy the plastic piece only.
Am not sure if this will be your situation or not, just check and be sure if your's is similar and if so, decide how to approach it.
12-25-2008, 10:53 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
ohh and another thing that i am not sure of is reguarding the plastic dust cap. does that stay in place when you put the distributor cap on?? because on mine, the dust cap doesnt like clip on, is it suppose to or does the dist cap hold it in place??
03-29-2009, 10:30 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia (Formerly: Sunnyvale, CA)
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
No. Ordinary screwdriver is fine for S2. Ignore Clark's instructions for the earlier models -- none of it applies. Very straightforward!
