Okay, so I am replacing my a-arms and I have the following removed:

sway bar
a-arm to spindle bolt
rear caster accentric (from car and a-arm)


so, the only thing holding the a-arm on is the front bolt that goes through the cross member. I have the nut off, but the bolt is somehow fused to the bushing. This means I can't get it out, and can't get the a-arm off. It also means I am 99% there and pissed off that even the simplest projects turn bad.

I have tried clampin it with a C-Clamp. I have tried hiting it with a hammer. It looks too cramped to drill out.

What is it going to take to get this thing off. Heat? On the a-arm next to the bushing? Maybe I will try that next.

Any suggestions are very welcome.

 

Tabor,
Given the cramped space under there it is possible that you just haven't been able to hit the bolt hard enough. I would suggest enlisting some help, then get a 3-4 ft piece of rod or a good long pry bar. Have your helper hold the rod/bar on the tip of the bolt while you hit the other end with a 'dead blow' hammer or a 2-3 pound ball peen.

If that doesn't work...I would very carefully use a die grinder to cut the bolt in two places so I could remove the A-arm. I have never heard of this particular bolt bonding itself to the A-arm bushing before now.

Good luck Tabor. Make sure you use the smallest wheel you can find with that die grinder. It should be thin enough and small enough diamter to do what I have suggested. It not then a dremel with a small cutting wheel works very well also.

Regards,
Max

 

Tabor, if you heat anything, heat the bolt.

I would spray the hell out of it with penetrant, then put the nut back on the bolt to protect the threads and wail on it a few times with a 2 lb. hammer.

 

Get some PB Blaster, if it is rusted in there this will get it out. The bolt should not be that difficult to remove. BTW replace the rear caster eccentric so that the arm hangs level when you try to remove the front bolt.

HTH,

 

Also - once it gets inside, hit it with a piece of brass or something soft to get it all the way out.

 

If you put a socket and breaker bar/ratchet on the head of the bolt, can you turn it? If you can not, then start using penetrating fluid.

Also, if you can not turn it try getting a pry bar, floor jack handle works nicely, and try moving the bolt before you start cutting on it.

If that does not work try putting the jack underneath of the bolt and relieving the tension and then work on it some more.

Keep at it, it will come apart. I did this procedure a couple of months ago, and it was not fun, but you can make it through.

I would use heating and penetrating fluid as last resorts. Because if you go that route, you will have to replace the bushing inside of there.

 

Jason, I can turn the bolt relatively easily, but half of the bushing turns with it. I don't mind ruining the bushing. It was aleady cracked and I am replacing my control arms with NEW ones.

 

Tabor; For future reference, any time you come up against a bolt which passes through a bushing, shocks, spring shackles, control arms etc. start off by tightening the bolt and nut as tight as you can. By doing this you'll compress and swell the bushing and break loose whatever bonds have formed between it and the bolt. It's a trick I learned from an old spring builder, and it's helped me out a few times. If the threads aren't too bad on the bolt you're dealing with now, you might give it a shot. Good luck anyway.

 

thanks, very good to know.

 

So, let me get this straight, it will spin in place, but you can not knock it out?

If that is true, then somewhere inside it has mushroomed out, and you could have some real headaches.

<img src="confused.gif" border="0">

 

[quote]Originally posted by Mark Parker:
<strong>Tabor; For future reference, any time you come up against a bolt which passes through a bushing, shocks, spring shackles, control arms etc. start off by tightening the bolt and nut as tight as you can. By doing this you'll compress and swell the bushing and break loose whatever bonds have formed between it and the bolt. It's a trick I learned from an old spring builder, and it's helped me out a few times. If the threads aren't too bad on the bolt you're dealing with now, you might give it a shot. Good luck anyway. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Please do_not over-tighten the arm bolt to the crossmember - this has a specific torque value that should_not be exceeded. You stand a slight chance of bending or fracturing the crossmember mounting.

Use a dead-blow or lead hammer on the threaded end to get it started - a friend with a pry bar wedged against the chassis to hold the arm tight would really help.

Good Luck!

 

I just use a 3/8" extension (about 8" long) and whack it with a hammer. When in doubt, use more force...

 

86Jason944,

The bolt is fused to the front half of the metal part of the bushing. The bushing AND the bolt spin freely. The bolt does not spin freely from the bushing.

Danno,

That is exactly what I have been doing.

I purchased a pnumatic cut off tool today, I will see if I can cut through the bushing and the bolt to get the a-arm off.

 

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.........I understand now. Unfortunately it sounds like you have no other choice but to cut it off. Unless of course you want to keep banging on it.

 

Got one half cut off. The other half won't be hard but I have to go to my welding class now.