Anything tricky I should know about an S2 timing belt replacement?

I was going to buy the arnnworx tools for the job. The site doesn't mention S2s explictly -- anyone used these tools on an S2?

How much time should I schedule for the job? (Remember, it's the first time I've done this, so it'll probably take a bit longer.)

-Mark

 

I'm also interested.

 

Check Clarks-Garage.com
There is a detailed write up with needed tools, use this in inconjunction with the arnworx site.

Be sure to lock the flywheel after setting the timing.

 

I used the arnworx tools to do the belts on my S which is the same setup. It's pretty straightfoward. As far as how much time it depends on whether or not you're replacing the water pump as well, or rollers. Are you just doing the belts?

 

I'd say 40tkm (divide by 1,6 to get ml) for belts and 80tkm for rollers.

I've changed them couple of times, not hard task for a saturday-evening stuff ; just remember to have the right tools handy (esp.flywheel locking tool). Balance shaft belt tension is harder to get right as the timing belt itself tunes via the automatic tensioner.

-1. Open a can of beer
0. Remove starter
1. Remove covers & bellypan & alternator belt
2. Rotate engine until timing marks on flywheel and exhaust cam are in place
3. lock the flywheel
3.1. open another can of beer as you crawl from under the car
4. remove belts
5. remove rollers & timing belt tensioner
6. install new rollers
7. install timing new timing belt (working the belt around crankshaft pulley might be a bit tricky)
8. install tensioner and let it do the magic itself
9. lock the tensioner
9.1. open new can of your favourite beer
10. install balance shaft belts
10.1 open another can of beer
11. check the balance shaft tension with P9201 or P920x
12. open another can of beer
13. install remaining stuff found nearby your car

On 16V engines the belts are just 50% of the fun, read below:

14. Open the valve cover
15. Get a shot of JD as you broke at least one of the studs
15.1. get the remaining part out from the head (can be tricky)
16. Remove the old slider from chain tensioner
17. Install new slider
18. Ask your wife/gf/bf/neighbour/mom to put band-aid on your knuckles as you cut them while changing the slider piece
19. Open another can of beer
20. Close the valve cover
21. Open it again as one of the spark plug seals was not ok
22. Open another can of beer
23. Close the valve cover & put the studs to right lbs/ft (see WSM)

For the record ; I've never broke a single one of the studs :angel:

 

I haven't decided whether I will try to do the waterpump/front engine seals "while in there" yet. In part that's why I was trying to get some idea of how long it actually takes to do just the belts -- if it's a long job, then I'm more inclined to do the other things while in there, if it's not too much time, I might revisit at a later time.

Let me ask you this: How much _extra_ time to do the extra stuff, (i.e., seals and water pump) do you think?

From experience, I've learned that even if all the steps sound straightforward and logical in the wsm, actually _doing_ the job (particularly the first time) is always full of little "surprises" that makes things "interesting", and usually takes significantly longer than first imagined.

Or maybe it's just me!

 

Is this recommended? I know that in theory the auto-tensioner should get the tension right, but do people actually trust this in practice? Or is the lack of trust just (perhaps understandable) paranoia?

The reason I ask is that I haven't got a 9401/940X, and getting one adds a significant expense to the job, obviously -- I should probably find out if I can get by with a "krikit" for just the balance belt (if that's possible)...

Wow, I hadn't even realised any of this -- do you need to change the "slider" (I'll have to look this up -- any pointers? I couldn't see any reference to this at clarks-garage.com...)

Thanks,

-Mark

 

I used the kricket for both the balance and timing belts, no problems at all. Just check, check, and re-check your readings until you're confident.

If you're just doing the belts you have to remove the ac/alternator belt, lock the flywheel at TDC, removed front belt covers, and remove the belts. If you're doing the water pump/front engine seal, you have to continue on from here by removing the crank gear (which is torqued to 155ft-lbs, use a break bar+pipe), and then the auto-tensioner. Then removed the rear belt covers. The water pump will now be exposed, and 10 bolts hold it in place. But first drain the coolant from the radiator, and un-clamp the big hose from the water pump and get ready for another rush of coolant. Then you can change the pump. As far as the front main seal, if it was done last belt job and it's not leaking just leave it.

The auto-tensioners are usually pretty reliable. But it's real easy to check with the krikit. And you can push/pry the auto-tensioner if it's a little off.

As far as the cam chain pads: you should at least inspect them by removing the valve cover. The bolts shouldn't break if they were torqued properly the last time (7ft-lbs). If the pad shows some wear a new one is like 30 bucks, and isn't too bad to change.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=56758
^^read that about the chain tensioner.

 

It may be called the chain tensioner, Mark.

http://boerger.golden-tech.com/image...eplacement.htm

Here's TB info from the workshop manual:
http://boerger.golden-tech.com/tensioning.pdf

 

Only bit of additional information I will add is that it is worth it to remove the fans (4 bolts and a plug) before removing the belts. Gives you that much more room to move around.

 

+1, yes removed the fans! it will make a huge difference and it's easy.

 

Thanks for all the tips and info, guys.

One question about the kriket: On Bruce Arnn's site, it reads as if the kriket isn't suited to post 85.5 944s, yet you guys seem to be using it OK on the later models. So what's the issue? I know Bruce is in the business of selling his 920X tool, but he also sells the kriket, and more to the point, my previous discussions with him lead me to believe he's a very smart and straight-up guy, and I don't believe he would adopt this viewpoint without some basis. Any ideas?

-Mark

 

I use the Krikit tool on my S2. It does work, but it is not the most intuitive tool, there is a lot of check and re-check for peace of mind. I do not have the Arnworx tools, but in watching the development of them on Rennlist, they are quality. Bruce's stuff is well thought out and takes most (if not all) of the ambiguity out of the job. They still have to be used properly, but are easier to do so than the Kriket. I wish the tools had been around when I first started working on my car.

 

Thanks Riff, that makes sense.

Where do you stand on using the autotensioner? Have you tried setting the tension that way, and then checking the result with krikit or other tension meter?

To possibly save buying the more expensive tool, I was thinking about using the autotensioner and then using the krikit for verification...

 

Definitely. I'm not sure if you can even fit a torque wrench in there straight from the top to torque the crank pulley with the fans in. If I recall, you have to angle it in toward the motor, which isn't a great angle when trying to get 155 ft/lbs on there.