Hahah, cheap oil and filters -->
06-05-2002, 11:56 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
[quote]Originally posted by Jax951:
<strong>Most non-synthetic oils contain parrafin wax. Modern oils have all sorts of additives that normally would not "bond" together - this is where the parrafin comes in. Non-synthetic oils all begin to break down around 3000 miles - DON'T PUSH IT!!! When running with non-synthetic oils, ALWAYS change regularly. Otherwise the oil breaks down, and leaves gunky wax everywhere it shouldn't be.
Use synthetic oil only! I personally know an AMSOIL dealer who claims Amsoil 100% synthetic NEVER breaks down under normal conditions. All you need to do is change the filter on a regular basis. He has 170,000 miles on his dodge truck - never changed the oil, only the filter. Something broke one time (I forget what - non bearing related) and decided to pull the engine apart and check for damage - the mechanic told him it his bearings were in fantastic condition.
I'm not saying don't change the oil, just telling his story. I change my oil and filter regularly.
Believe what you want, but go synthetic - Amsoil or Mobil One are the best two. Amsoil was originally recommended to me by a Porsche mechanic in Tampa by the way.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why my baby gets Amsoil full synthetic!!
Except that mine gets it every 3k miles
<strong>Most non-synthetic oils contain parrafin wax. Modern oils have all sorts of additives that normally would not "bond" together - this is where the parrafin comes in. Non-synthetic oils all begin to break down around 3000 miles - DON'T PUSH IT!!! When running with non-synthetic oils, ALWAYS change regularly. Otherwise the oil breaks down, and leaves gunky wax everywhere it shouldn't be.
Use synthetic oil only! I personally know an AMSOIL dealer who claims Amsoil 100% synthetic NEVER breaks down under normal conditions. All you need to do is change the filter on a regular basis. He has 170,000 miles on his dodge truck - never changed the oil, only the filter. Something broke one time (I forget what - non bearing related) and decided to pull the engine apart and check for damage - the mechanic told him it his bearings were in fantastic condition.
I'm not saying don't change the oil, just telling his story. I change my oil and filter regularly.
Believe what you want, but go synthetic - Amsoil or Mobil One are the best two. Amsoil was originally recommended to me by a Porsche mechanic in Tampa by the way.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why my baby gets Amsoil full synthetic!!
Except that mine gets it every 3k miles
06-06-2002, 12:06 AM
#17
Drifting
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Isn't Amsoil the $8/qt stuff? That is at least $50 per oil change. I can see that if you are doing it once a year, but every 3,000 miles? That is like $200/year for me + filters!
Where do you buy this stuff?
Where do you buy this stuff?
06-06-2002, 12:08 AM
#18
Jane Bond 007
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Ooooh! I bet my engine'd spring enough leaks I could use it for a colander 
That's a scary thought. With this many miles I think I'll wait for the rebuild before changing. Thanx for the info.
That's a scary thought. With this many miles I think I'll wait for the rebuild before changing. Thanx for the info.
06-06-2002, 12:11 AM
#19
Nordschleife Master
I buy it from <a href="http://www.amsoil.com" target="_blank">www.amsoil.com</a> in bulk.
(Well, in 4 quart jugs)
Yeap its around $8/quart if you include shipping.
I average 10k miles a year in the 951..so thats a little more than 3 oil changes each year.
(Well, in 4 quart jugs)
Yeap its around $8/quart if you include shipping.
I average 10k miles a year in the 951..so thats a little more than 3 oil changes each year.
06-06-2002, 01:48 PM
#22
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[quote]Originally posted by Tabor Kelly:
<strong>Where do you buy this stuff?</strong><hr></blockquote>
From a great, reputable, honest, stand-up type of guy... like me!!
<a href="http://www.JGriff.com" target="_blank">JGriff.com - AMSOIL</a>
Click on the Tech info and FAQ pages for some good reading about synthetic oils.
BTW, I'm running their Series 2000 20w50 in my S2.
I've been using AMSOIL for 13 years. After being impressed for so long, I finally chose (a couple of years ago) to become a dealer. Click on My Story on the site for more about all that.
Also, if you'd like to buy their products at wholesale (i.e. dealer) cost, click on the Preferred Customer link on the site.
I hope this doesn't offend anyone here... I know to some this may seem like blatant advertising. My reply was only to answer "where", and to offer some good reading material on the subject of synthetics. I have never been a hard-sell type of guy... I like to present the information and the products to educate the consumer, and then let him/her make the decision.
Hope that helps.
Jim
<strong>Where do you buy this stuff?</strong><hr></blockquote>
From a great, reputable, honest, stand-up type of guy... like me!!
<a href="http://www.JGriff.com" target="_blank">JGriff.com - AMSOIL</a>
Click on the Tech info and FAQ pages for some good reading about synthetic oils.
BTW, I'm running their Series 2000 20w50 in my S2.
I've been using AMSOIL for 13 years. After being impressed for so long, I finally chose (a couple of years ago) to become a dealer. Click on My Story on the site for more about all that.
Also, if you'd like to buy their products at wholesale (i.e. dealer) cost, click on the Preferred Customer link on the site.
I hope this doesn't offend anyone here... I know to some this may seem like blatant advertising. My reply was only to answer "where", and to offer some good reading material on the subject of synthetics. I have never been a hard-sell type of guy... I like to present the information and the products to educate the consumer, and then let him/her make the decision.
Hope that helps.
Jim
06-06-2002, 02:07 PM
#23
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My PO ran Penz in mine, and the filth that was in there made me sick. Tons of yellow film. I also saw the same on another car I did a few years back. To top it off, my brother is the Chief Mechanic for Rhonda Hartman and John Smith (FRAM Top Fuel Dragsters) and they run various oils (mostly Valvoline) and Fram Filters. Since they pull the motors apart after every run, things stay pretty clean. The internals are always nice and shiny, and no tint at all. Now, walk down 3 pits to the guys who run Penz, and srangely, all their internals are tinted yellow.If it deposits that much after a 5 second 1/4 mile blast, think of what it looks like after 100,000 miles.
Fram has been in my family from day 1. We have never had a filter fail, and after shredding a bearing in my Turbo Z, it cought all of the contaminants. We could not find 1 flake of babbit or a sliver of aluminum anywhere in the top half of the motor.
Having said that, I do run OEM on the 951.
Fram has been in my family from day 1. We have never had a filter fail, and after shredding a bearing in my Turbo Z, it cought all of the contaminants. We could not find 1 flake of babbit or a sliver of aluminum anywhere in the top half of the motor.
Having said that, I do run OEM on the 951.
06-06-2002, 06:06 PM
#24
Racer
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Here is an interesting study done on oil filters... It just shows the facts of what is actually inside the filters. Its good reading, but takes awhile to load.
<a href="http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html" target="_blank">http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html</a>
<a href="http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html" target="_blank">http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html</a>
06-06-2002, 06:28 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
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A L-O-N-G time ago when I was a senior in college (1977!!) I did a term paper on engine oils and SAE certification. I was an Industrial Arts major back when that was not synonamous with "put the trouble makers in those classes". Anyway, Penzoil (however spelled) as was stated earlier was parafin based and subject to leaving behnd residues. I think Quaker State was the same way. In those days Castrol wasn't as big as it is today. I used and am now again considering Valvoline Racing oil.
I use Castrol and Mahle filters on the Porsche now, but honestly? I've used Frams and Purolators on plenty of cars - admittedly not high performacne vehicles, we're talking pushrod Amercian V8's - and never had a problem. I think it is the regularity of oil changes rather than specific mfg that is the key. A WHOLE lot of what you read about lubrication products and filters is Bull. Oils have to meet SAE standards and in many ways they are all EXACTLY alike. Flame on.
I use Castrol and Mahle filters on the Porsche now, but honestly? I've used Frams and Purolators on plenty of cars - admittedly not high performacne vehicles, we're talking pushrod Amercian V8's - and never had a problem. I think it is the regularity of oil changes rather than specific mfg that is the key. A WHOLE lot of what you read about lubrication products and filters is Bull. Oils have to meet SAE standards and in many ways they are all EXACTLY alike. Flame on.
06-06-2002, 06:36 PM
#26
Deer Slayer
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Dan, what you say about oil may be true in California. It is NOT true here in Minnesota, where temps go sub-zero daily for 2 months out of the year. Synthetics allow my cars to start far more readily when it's 10 below, and I'm sure it's a lot easier on the engine. Cold weather is the main reason I use Mobil-1 in all my vehicles, period.
cheers
Thaddeus
cheers
Thaddeus
