adrial

OK...

nevermind ima dumb ***

crazandy

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>OK...

nevermind ima dumb ***</strong><hr></blockquote>

We know

RJP 951

Hey, I really wanted to know what the answer was!

adrial

I was trying to scribe the bolts themself...

There are 2 vertical bolts that go through the A-arm mount and hold up the A-arm...You just wanna scribe around the mount itself...

you'll be scribing into the frame when you do this...

Now that I have the A-arms off I can see that the dirt is probably a good enough scribe. I would scribe it anyway though.

Dan Gallagher

i have my own motor mount question and i was too lazy to start a new thread...

i know that the solid mounts make the ride less comfortable and there is vibrations etc. (i dont really care about the ride quality anymore now that the car isnt daily driven) but are there any other negatives like being bad for the car because of the added vibrations? also lindsey has shortened solid mounts that are supposedto "lower the center of gravity" my 5mm which doesnt seem like much, are the shorter mounts worth getting and also do they have any negative side effects?

<a href="http://www.lindseyracing.com/944eng3.htm" target="_blank">http://www.lindseyracing.com/944eng3.htm</a>

adrial

A tip for those that will be doing motor mounts:

Remove the sway!

After you get the A-arms unbolted the sway will be hanging down and just be in the way. It took 5 mins to remove it. (I've been following the tech-session's directions. <a href="http://www.tech-session.com" target="_blank">http://www.tech-session.com</a> )

I'm ready to support the engine and drop the cross member

SoCal Driver

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>I was trying to scribe the bolts themself...

There are 2 vertical bolts that go through the A-arm mount and hold up the A-arm...You just wanna scribe around the mount itself...

you'll be scribing into the frame when you do this...

Now that I have the A-arms off I can see that the dirt is probably a good enough scribe. I would scribe it anyway though.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Well you got that half right. Also note where the position of the little arms are between the two bolt U shaped rear support and the aluminum a-arm itself. These are what really sets the castor on the aluminum a-arms.

Then there is the elliptically mounted washer on the upper spindle bolt. This is what sets the camber.

Legoland951

I don't think the castor adjustor moves after the control arm is detached from the frame. I wouldn't mess with that at all during the control arm removal or you will end up with extra work.

Legoland951

Also, don't mess with the camber adjustment on the strut and spindle.... just remove control arm from the ball joint where it attaches to the bottom of the spindle.

adrial

I dont need to completely remove the control arm, just unbolt the half that is bolted to the frame/cross member.

I wasn't ready to unbolt the crossmember btw...I have too unbolt the engine mounts from the engine first.

I think the reason for doing this before unbolting the cross member is that you dont want to be putting big lateral forces on the engine when its being held up by 2 jacks. I could be wrong though.

adrial

OK...

The mount on the passenger side is totally shot and is the new style. The mount on the driver side is the old style and looks ok.

I have the frontmost nut/bolt off on the driver side and the rearmost bolt off on the passanger side.

I'm having some problems with the frontmost bolt on the passanger side. I can get a wrench on it, but it doesn't wanna go anywhere. There's no room for an extension of any length as far as I can see. The crossmember is still up there, holding up the engine as usual.

Any hot tips?

thanks,
Adrial

sm

Yes, that frontmost-passenger side was a tough one. I had a helper, luckily.

What I did was put a stubby wrench on that bolt. Then I put the open end of a combo wrench onto the other end of the stubby and let said combo wrench dangle straight down. To gain leverage, I put a 12" extension through the box end of the wrench that's dangling and twist the sucka. Just remember to make sure you're loosening the nut, not tightening it, as the extensions will throw you off.

HTH

adrial

[quote]Originally posted by sm:
<strong>Yes, that frontmost-passenger side was a tough one. I had a helper, luckily.

What I did was put a stubby wrench on that bolt. Then I put the open end of a combo wrench onto the other end of the stubby and let said combo wrench dangle straight down. To gain leverage, I put a 12" extension through the box end of the wrench that's dangling and twist the sucka. Just remember to make sure you're loosening the nut, not tightening it, as the extensions will throw you off.

HTH</strong><hr></blockquote>

I have a helper too thankfully...

I'm not quite sure I understand how that'll work...I don't see how the twisting force is transmitted to the stubby...I get it all the way up to there.

what kind of ends are on the stubby wrench? open? closed?

This is the last bolt I have to get off before I start unbolting the cross member...so close...and yet so far!

Thanks,
Adrial

yarin

YAY!!! Almost half way done... good thing there is 12" of snow on the ground so we can take our time.

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>

I have a helper too thankfully...

I'm not quite sure I understand how that'll work...I don't see how the twisting force is transmitted to the stubby...I get it all the way up to there.

what kind of ends are on the stubby wrench? open? closed?

This is the last bolt I have to get off before I start unbolting the cross member...so close...and yet so far!

Thanks,
Adrial</strong><hr></blockquote>

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

sm

Maybe this will help: