keith

I'm going to move my window switches to the blank and space for the fader control in my center console, unless someone else has BTDT and knows it won't work.

Anyone?

I'm going to use the clip-in cover for the blank to fill the holes in the window switch bezel afterward.

Opinions?
Comments?

Luke

don't hurt yourself

keith

not exactly what I was looking for there Luke, but I'll keep that in mind...

mideastmafia

are you running new wiring??

why go thru all that trouble?

and what will you do with the switches that are on the doors??

SHAUN

El Schön Toro

Keith,

I must say I am curious as to why you would do this also. Does it drive you crazy having the window switches on the door because your daily driver has them on the center-console...a Mercedes by chance .

I'll mirror Shaun and ask why go through the trouble?

Nonetheless, good luck with the project and I would love to see pics of the doors and center console when you are done.

Robby

I think it's a great idea! Hope ikt works! What about having extra window switches- BOTH places? Possible? Of course, then I'd only use the center console ones...

The stock location IS strange, and kind of tough to hit and the center console looks kind of silly w/hardly any switches there- I only have 3, since I removed my rear wiper, and if I had my way, I'd remove the power mirrors AND SR- it really is the stupidist sunroof design ever made, that I've seen- I mean electric to raise the back up 2"? Come on! Power mirrors? Well, I like the heated part- not really necessary, but still. I could still forgoe the electric parts entirely. Then, I'd only have the power door locks (wouldn't even mind deleting them). If THAT were the case, I'd rather move it (door lock switch), and just have the console piece made w/out holes at all- why have 6 blanks?

The door HANDLE would be the best place for the window controls (assuming you wanted power anyway), where you could push down on them, instead of against the side- the handle would have to be different though- that would be fine- I've always hated the fuct that Porsche makes us close our car doors w/the "Oh ****!" handle- why not a seperate handle to grab, a little further back in the door, like even 1st gen Integra's had? I know other Euro cars are this way too though- kind of like the Euro style sunroof- steel instead of glass (or better yet Lexan, to save a good 50% weight)- It's really a drag w/our cars, especially, since the sunroof is such a PITA to open- hence the reason why there are people out there willing to pay $1000 for Saratoga's on e-bay Oh well, one good thing- at least when you have one of our lids out, you KNOW it! It's almost like having a targa or something...

Let us know what happens Keith, and good luck...

Olli Snellman

It can be done.Most probaply you must use some extra wires.Are you going to use three switches (two for passanger door ?? If You just unplug passanger door switch, you are not able to use driver door switch either.They are in the same circuit.You can leave mirror adjustmet to its original place since it has own wireing.After all this is not bad idea.The original place of the switches is not so good.In my daily driver they are located in the armrest (VW), same thing with my better halfs Skoda Octavia.

Olli

2zeroes

Robby: the sunroof is suppose to tilt up more than 2". I haven't exactly measured mine, but I would have to guess it's about 5 inches. I happen to like the tilt feature, it helps cool the cabin and circulate the air.

keith

Robby - both my sunroofs are fiberglass or some sort of plastic.... not metal...

Anyway, my concern is whether or not there is enough physical SPACE under the console for those particular switches... I am thinking I will have to convert to the plug style that is used in the center console for clearance reasons.

Shaun - I will plug the holes in the window switch plate with blanks, like in the unused space in the center console and beside the fog light switch. I'll need three of them, of course...

Olli - I am just going to jumper the switch in the passenger door, and run the wiring from the connection in the harness before the driver's door. There will be 2 swirches in the console.

I want to do this after working on 928s and my experience driving a friend's E30 M3. Both have the window buttons in the center console and it is a much more practical, user friendly location, requiring only TWO switches instead of three.

I will keep you guys posted on this...

mideastmafia

honestly.. i doubt the switches will fit.. they are pretty big and the space under the center console is small.. also, it would be pretty hard to route all that wiring. the dash might not even go down all the way if the wires stick up too much..

try fitting one switch in there before anything

SHAUN

Bob S. 1984 Silver

I love the question: "Why bother?" I think this could be asked of any number of mods that have been described in this forum. My answer? Because it just might be neat to try something different. Isn't that why most of us have changed this, added that or removed something else? As for the holes in the door, how about a couple of piezo tweeters? They're small and might just look pretty good.

Go for it. I have a number of switches wired to my '84 console, and the wiring presents no problem. And, if the switches sit "too high", just get creative. As for the "extra" (pass. side) switch, leave it in the circuit and hide it somewhere. Saves on having to dope out all the wiring changes that might otherwise be required. BTW..Look at Audi/VW window switches from a later model. They are higher quality and smaller. Buy 'em with the sockets, though..makes the cut and paste a lot easier!!

Bob S.

Robby

*********Robby: the sunroof is suppose to tilt up more than 2". I haven't exactly measured mine, but I would have to guess it's about 5 inches. I happen to like the tilt feature, it helps cool the cabin and circulate the air******

Mine is DEFINATELY NOT 5"- maybe a little more than 2" though- the manual's do go up a little higher too- is your's electric or manual? Also, I didn't mean that the tilt feature itself wasn't cool (although I would definately rather the roof slide back rather than tilt up, IF I didn't have both options like some Mercedes, etc)- I just think it's utterly ridiculous to have to have a power motor (ESPECIALLY one so complicated) for just THAT purpose alone- I'd rather have the manual for the extra 1/2" or so, AND, the simplicity...

******Robby - both my sunroofs are fiberglass or some sort of plastic.... not metal...******

Not sure about the roof- maybe shouldn't have said metal, BUT, everyone and their uncle says the rest of the body panels are something different- I tend to agree w/those who say metal for things like the hood. Some say fiberglass, but then why would they be so damn heavy, AND, why would other fibreglass panels (like those from GT Racing) be SO much lighter? OH well, again, not sure about the lid, but it does weigh 19lbs, so whatever it is, it's pretty "solid!" Anyway, I understand what you mean about the switch size now- good luck...

BobS- I like your attitude- I COMPLETELY agree...

Bob S. 1984 Silver

Thanks, Robby...Innovation is fun....

keith

I guess you guys aren't tracking on the filling the holes with the factory covers for the blank extra slots that are already in the car...

I'm thinking all the rockers are the same size.
More later...

mideastmafia

the blank switches wont fit in the window holes... they are the same size but the fitting on the back is different.. you could GLUE them in..


SHAUN