BRB_85.5_NA

I got the typical clack-clack-clack, consistent with vehicle speed, louder under acceleration, coming from the rear, CV joint failure sounds last night. Question: is there a way to diagnosis for certain which axle is bad so I know I'm replacing the right one? I sounds like it's coming from the driver's side, but I want to be sure. Will there be play if I grab and turn it?

Thanks <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" />
B

JLeake

You might want to try swapping the axles from one side to the other before you spend the $ on new CV joints. I just noticed the clack-clack yesterday and am swapping mine this weekend. Remember to use new bolts!

BRB_85.5_NA

And the swapping kills the problem because the "forward" force is now reversed? Please explain. I'm not sure it would work for me because I'm getting noise on decelleration with engine braking too, though none in reverse.

Source for new bolts? Sizes? Any tricks for removal and install (no Paragon Tech session)?

BTW it got really loud driving it today, so I know it's the driver's side. Back in the Landcruiser again...

Thanks

iloveporsches

I had to take my CV joints off for my clutch job. They weren't hard, but finding that damned cheesehead tool was. I just set the cheesehead in there, tapped it in with a hammer, and turned. One stripped, but that was my own fault.

Good luck!

BRB_85.5_NA

What are the specs for the cheesehead tool?

Joe944

cv's are really easy. jack the *** end up and remove the bolts, tada off comes the cv.

Hans

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by BRB944:
<strong>What are the specs for the cheesehead tool?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">8 mm
You want the "long" one, app 2 inch extended toolbit in 1/2" socket.
This makes the socket stay clear from the rubber boot preventing damage.
Replace all 4 in one go, don't bother with rebuilt shafts (there is nothing to be re-built on either the shaft or the joint itself, re-assembly of new joints to shaft is easy).
Get replacement CV kits, they should include boots, clamps, grease AND BOLTS. Not all kits contain everything so checking is required.

Testing while under the car: jack up till wheels are free, crawl under.
Wiggle/move/rotate shaft and estimate the ease. easy lateral movement indicates worn out CV.
Then: have a helper rotate the wheel slowly and listen to each CV, there is a "crunching" sound if the ***** / race is damaged.
Suspect the inner one on the left side, closest to exhaust, grease dries out fastest.
TakeCare

JLeake

Yes, swapping sides changes the load bearing surfaces and therefore gives you many more miles on the same set of CV joints. Mine are popping on decel too. I've never swapped the axles before, but I am doing so this weekend. If swapping them doesn't fix it, then it's easy enough to locate the faulty joint and replace just that one (or however many are bad). I intend to clean the joints and repack with grease, so I'll get a good look to assess their condition.

The tool is 8mm, 12 point, and has external splines. Snap-On makes the best tool from what I've read...$23 w/ a lifetime warranty. The snap on guy called the tool a 'quadrangle.' Call 877-762-7661 and ask for the cell # of the local rep in your area. Make sure he has the tool in stock and then find out where he's going to be. I met my guy at a Jeep dealer. BTW, VW used the same bolts on some cars. This may clue him in to what you are looking for. I've never heard it called a 'cheesehead'...thought that referred to a wide-slotted, cylindrical head on a bolt. At least that's what the Machinery's Handbook says.

Make sure you use new bolts and loc-tite. Also clean the heads of the old bolts well and make sure you have the tool fully engaged (to avoid stripping).

Yes, you are probably best off buying the kit with all requried items. (x4, of course)