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removing flywheel bolts

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Old 10-14-2008, 09:42 PM
  #16  
John_AZ
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krystar,
Now that you have all the flywheel bolts out you need to consider gotting new bolts. www.Clarks-Garage.com recommends new bolts. The bolts do stretch. Some members reuse the old, your choice.
There is a 2 step sequence for tightening. The 90Nm equals 65 FtPounds.

The rear seal DOES NOT sit flush with the block. It has to be seated at the bottom of the block rear seal groove. Depends on brand of seal as to the depth below surface. If you leave it at the surface it will drip.

You should also balance the flywheel and PP. The machine shop can do this when you have the flywheel surfaced. If you decide not to balance, you probably will have drive train vibration at certain rpm's.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S
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Old 10-15-2008, 01:12 AM
  #17  
krystar
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thanks for info. i was gonna get ARP bolts to try to fit a new clutch (see other thread "Why is a Clutch So Expensive?") but I just inspected the crank....and it's scored....so yea.....i'm unshure what to do now.
Old 10-15-2008, 02:11 AM
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You might look at a block on EBay or a Rennlist member.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts...=p4506.c0.m245

GL
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Old 10-15-2008, 02:18 AM
  #19  
krystar
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bare block wouldn't do me any good though. i'm just hoping at when i remove the crank tomm, the main bearings aren't toast. cause i'm in the poorhouse already replacing the rod bearings, oil pan gasket and getting a new pickup tube. and I still have to get the replacement clutch figured out.
Old 10-15-2008, 02:31 AM
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Sorry,
I should have read the entire EBay description. George at www.944ecology.com (and others) have helped many menbers.

GL
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