SidViscous

Heres what I'm trying to do. All who have done it know what a pain in the **** draining the cooling system can be. There is a product used in home heating systems that continuously bleeds air out. It's a little valve like thingy, lets air out, but stops water.

So a few questions.

1. our operating system is below 240 degrees F right?

2. Anyone have a blleder valve system for our cars lying around? One with a stripped thread would be great, as I need to drill it out and re-tap it.

3. Any thoughts on the concept? Basically the system constantly bleeds air as anytime air passes the valve it is allowed out. It's small enough that hood clearance shouldn't be a problem. (Well the one I got anyways.

Mike S

There's only one problem there. Your coolant is under pressure, not sure how much but i'm guessing 8-10psi. I would think that the valve would just leak all the pressure out and cause overheating.

JimV8

Sid, i'm inclined to agree with Mike, The big Q is how do stop the fluid from coming out instead of air.

SidViscous

Valve is rated to 150 psi



It is designed specifically to let air out and not water.

zakk

Sid: <a href="http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/watertemp.htm" target="_blank">http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/watertemp.htm</a> looks like the upper end of the gauge is around 240-250 F. And guys, home heating stuff is under pressure also, how do you think the water moves around?

SidViscous

Zakk

Thanks on that bit. Little bit close for comfort, but you could think of it as an emergency warning. The things are only like $4 apiece, so keeping an extra handy for emergencies shouldn't be a problem.

zakk

How does it fail when you exceed the rated temperature? I would assume if this stuff is used in home heating it basically stops working and won't bleed air anymore, since I can't imagine anyone selling something that would fail by spewing the coolant out.

SidViscous

Problem being some of the internals are plastic so it is possible that they fail by leaking.

Bri Bro

It not only will see pressure, it will also see a vacuum. When the radiator cools off, it pulls fluid out of the reservoir under vacuum.

Toolmaster

Sid -

I'm a bit wary on this one.

We're looking at the normal operating bits for the car - but let's follow a slightly different path for a sec.

Let's assume that you have a blockage sometime down the line, and the car overheats a bit. In that situation, if the valve leaks, once the upper end of the temp spectrum is hit, you'll be spewing coolant out that's needed to keep the engine from going BANG. Also - if you take the car on the track some day, the temps may run a bit higher than the standard meaning there's a potential that you'll spew coolant out there too - or even on a really hot day with the AC on.

The system is designed to be a closed one, for normal operation and abnormal operation.

Instead invest in a cooling system pressure tester kit. Pressureize the coolant system and then bleeding it becomes a 5 minute operation.

HTH!

SidViscous

Beab

Vacum should be fine on this.

Toolmaster.

It's not neccessary that, that wold kill the project for a road car, The expell valve can be closed off. Therefore a failure will not leak coolant. Run for a week to get the air out, then close the valve. Next time you need to bleed the system, head over to home depot and for $3.97 get a replacement.

As for me, the AC don't work, for now it's a road car, I wouldn't even consider this on a race car.

As for the pressure system, haven't seen or heard. Does it require a compressor, remember I'm in an apartment at the moment.

My plan was to install (takes minumum work) and see how it goes on local trips. Reverting back also easy enough.

ahofam123

If it works well in the HVAC industry then it should be able to work in the 944. If you get it to work, I'd be interested in the plans so I can make one.

SidViscous

Will do.

Run it through the summer which should be the toughest test.