would cutting out spare tire area allow me to remove the torque tube?
#76
lol. that's why if I get the trans out I may just have the car towed to a shop and have them repalce the clutch and tq tube or I may just replace the tq tube and keep the clutch kit aroudn for when the clutch does actually go.
I have replaced the timing belt / water pump myself so I know how to do that. fairly easy job you just need to get the tension checked by a shop that has the prosche tool.
I have replaced the timing belt / water pump myself so I know how to do that. fairly easy job you just need to get the tension checked by a shop that has the prosche tool.
besides, I want to se how the TT comes out in case mine was bent after all and blows. What days/times are you working on it next week?
there is a guy with a Turbo parts car on craigslist now with a TT, he wanted $300 for it I never called him back since mine seemed to work.
EDIT: oh sorry, u already have the kit. even better!
#77
man I'm confident if I keep cutting with my sawzall it will cut through ti. I can definatelly see the cut itnothe metal and i only cut for a couple of minutes today. it just cuts really slow.
i'm guessing it will need an hour of cutting to get through ti cut it will happen lol.
right now there is no other choice. I broke off both flanges so you can't even pry it.
2 options now are
1) keep on cutting for hours
2.) try to crack the coupler by wedgin a big screwdriver in it and spack the **** out of it.
my reciprocal saw is pretty low powered also only 5 amps compact recip saw.
I thought hardened steel has a hard outer shell. I have already cut about a 1mm or so into the coupler. I can stick my finger nail in the cut
i'm guessing it will need an hour of cutting to get through ti cut it will happen lol.
right now there is no other choice. I broke off both flanges so you can't even pry it.
2 options now are
1) keep on cutting for hours
2.) try to crack the coupler by wedgin a big screwdriver in it and spack the **** out of it.
my reciprocal saw is pretty low powered also only 5 amps compact recip saw.
I thought hardened steel has a hard outer shell. I have already cut about a 1mm or so into the coupler. I can stick my finger nail in the cut
#78
haha, yes, I have already forgotten, even though my fingernails still look as though I dug a burrow for my family's winter hibernation.
The clutch install replacement is easy, especially if you get that cursed TT out of the way. Some people, myself included, cannot get the bellhousing to clear the shaft and have to unbolt the PP by rotating the flywheel manually approx. 20000 times so that they can unscrew each bolt one quarter turn at a time in a diagonal pattern. And some other people MAY have been known to put the little splined washer on the PP the wrong way, then realise afterwards, so they have to screw the PP back out again avec he-man strength flywheel turning and then fiddle with the snap ring for three hours before remounting the throw-out bearing correctly and doing the he-man thing again to the pressure plate for the fourth time.
actually, come to think of it, the clutch thing is by no means self explanatorily easy.
Another thing: you may need to apply some serious leverage or hammering to get the clutch fork shaft out. i have a little trick with a claw hammer, piece of wood, and a Home depot 5/16ths bolt I can show you if you need it... I go to school in richmond.
Maybe I will pop round and give u a hand/encouragement in return for shock/balancing/timing belt replacement/anything else you know about advice.
The clutch install replacement is easy, especially if you get that cursed TT out of the way. Some people, myself included, cannot get the bellhousing to clear the shaft and have to unbolt the PP by rotating the flywheel manually approx. 20000 times so that they can unscrew each bolt one quarter turn at a time in a diagonal pattern. And some other people MAY have been known to put the little splined washer on the PP the wrong way, then realise afterwards, so they have to screw the PP back out again avec he-man strength flywheel turning and then fiddle with the snap ring for three hours before remounting the throw-out bearing correctly and doing the he-man thing again to the pressure plate for the fourth time.
actually, come to think of it, the clutch thing is by no means self explanatorily easy.
Another thing: you may need to apply some serious leverage or hammering to get the clutch fork shaft out. i have a little trick with a claw hammer, piece of wood, and a Home depot 5/16ths bolt I can show you if you need it... I go to school in richmond.
Maybe I will pop round and give u a hand/encouragement in return for shock/balancing/timing belt replacement/anything else you know about advice.
well the car has already been down for 3 weeks. I also go to school full time and work so I only have couple hours a week to work on it at most.
i'm not going to sell the car though. I have replaced a ton of things on the car and it was running great.
replacing the clutch shouldn't really take 60 hours. A professional mechanic shop (Weissach) quoted me 8.5 hours to do the clutch
doing everything the first time seems hard. When I first replaced my oil pan gasket and motor mounts I thought it was such a complicated job that I'd never finish and now that I look back it wasn't really too hard just time consuming.
#79
once the trans comes out (hopefully) to replace the clutch don't y ou just have to remove the 4 bolts to teh bellhousing and pull the tq tube back?
at least this is a good learning experience. before I bought my 944 I didn't know much about cars and now I have learned so much.
anyways will update later to let you gusy know if I could cut through that coupler with my sawzall. i'm not going to give up.
at least this is a good learning experience. before I bought my 944 I didn't know much about cars and now I have learned so much.
anyways will update later to let you gusy know if I could cut through that coupler with my sawzall. i'm not going to give up.
#80
well the car has already been down for 3 weeks. I also go to school full time and work so I only have couple hours a week to work on it at most.
i'm not going to sell the car though. I have replaced a ton of things on the car and it was running great.
replacing the clutch shouldn't really take 60 hours. A professional mechanic shop (Weissach) quoted me 8.5 hours to do the clutch
doing everything the first time seems hard. When I first replaced my oil pan gasket and motor mounts I thought it was such a complicated job that I'd never finish and now that I look back it wasn't really too hard just time consuming.
i'm not going to sell the car though. I have replaced a ton of things on the car and it was running great.
replacing the clutch shouldn't really take 60 hours. A professional mechanic shop (Weissach) quoted me 8.5 hours to do the clutch
doing everything the first time seems hard. When I first replaced my oil pan gasket and motor mounts I thought it was such a complicated job that I'd never finish and now that I look back it wasn't really too hard just time consuming.
i thought we had already gone over the not selling the car part??
#81
I thought u were replacing torque tube? In fact, you don't know what you are replacing yet because you still don't know what's damaged, right?
I sure would like to take a look at it. I had trouble getting my coupler back on because I bolted the TA back on the TT first, then had to unbolt and jiggle the TA to get it to align. It will seem totally stuck unless they are aligned straight end to end. I guess it's all too late for jiggling now since u broke the flanges (360 degrees broken???)
So, when are you working on it next week? as I say I will give u a hand. and relax dude, I'm not gonna try to convince u to sell it! It was a long but hopeful shot
#82
will work on it a bit this thursday, and sat I have a day off now so I will work on it on saturdays.
what is damaged on my car is the coupler stripped at the tq tube and the tq tube end is probably stripped too so I need to replace the tq tube and put a new coupler on.
clutch might also be original rubber centre not sure but the reason my car broke down was the stripped tq tube / coupler.
once I cut throught that coupler and trans is out I'll see if the tq tube is stripped.
what is damaged on my car is the coupler stripped at the tq tube and the tq tube end is probably stripped too so I need to replace the tq tube and put a new coupler on.
clutch might also be original rubber centre not sure but the reason my car broke down was the stripped tq tube / coupler.
once I cut throught that coupler and trans is out I'll see if the tq tube is stripped.
#83
will work on it a bit this thursday, and sat I have a day off now so I will work on it on saturdays.
what is damaged on my car is the coupler stripped at the tq tube and the tq tube end is probably stripped too so I need to replace the tq tube and put a new coupler on.
clutch might also be original rubber centre not sure but the reason my car broke down was the stripped tq tube / coupler.
once I cut throught that coupler and trans is out I'll see if the tq tube is stripped.
what is damaged on my car is the coupler stripped at the tq tube and the tq tube end is probably stripped too so I need to replace the tq tube and put a new coupler on.
clutch might also be original rubber centre not sure but the reason my car broke down was the stripped tq tube / coupler.
once I cut throught that coupler and trans is out I'll see if the tq tube is stripped.
So can I come around on thursday at three-ish if I have the time? depends on how you get on tomorrow I guess...
#84
yeah tom i'm busy. thursday I won't be home till around 5pm. you can come around then.
yes it could be a failing clutch also so I'll most likely get that done aswell if the tq tube has to come out anyways.
the clunk I was hearing was actually most likely the tq tube shaft jumping teeth inside the coupler, because the clunk came from the transmission and not the clutch area and whenever I heard the clunk you could see the whole trans shake side to side.
I have already ordered a clutch kit.
however before when the car ran the clutch engaged fine and the car shifted good only clunking sound from trans started a week before the coupler stripped out
yes it could be a failing clutch also so I'll most likely get that done aswell if the tq tube has to come out anyways.
the clunk I was hearing was actually most likely the tq tube shaft jumping teeth inside the coupler, because the clunk came from the transmission and not the clutch area and whenever I heard the clunk you could see the whole trans shake side to side.
I have already ordered a clutch kit.
however before when the car ran the clutch engaged fine and the car shifted good only clunking sound from trans started a week before the coupler stripped out
#86
yeah tom i'm busy. thursday I won't be home till around 5pm. you can come around then.
yes it could be a failing clutch also so I'll most likely get that done aswell if the tq tube has to come out anyways.
the clunk I was hearing was actually most likely the tq tube shaft jumping teeth inside the coupler, because the clunk came from the transmission and not the clutch area and whenever I heard the clunk you could see the whole trans shake side to side.
I have already ordered a clutch kit.
however before when the car ran the clutch engaged fine and the car shifted good only clunking sound from trans started a week before the coupler stripped out
yes it could be a failing clutch also so I'll most likely get that done aswell if the tq tube has to come out anyways.
the clunk I was hearing was actually most likely the tq tube shaft jumping teeth inside the coupler, because the clunk came from the transmission and not the clutch area and whenever I heard the clunk you could see the whole trans shake side to side.
I have already ordered a clutch kit.
however before when the car ran the clutch engaged fine and the car shifted good only clunking sound from trans started a week before the coupler stripped out
hey have you considered putting the TA to TT bolts back in, and revving the engine a bit to brutalize the rest of the teeth? you could leave the tranny in neutral to minimize the risk of damage to the tranny input shaft splines. if you strip them good you may be able to slide off the coupler?? or, with the cut you put into it with the sawzall you may be able to get the coupler to shear, save a bit of time.
i am sure someone will leap in to say what a bad idea this is...
damn. thursday at five I am back in work.