K26 Turbo Charger Variations....
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Luke you spurred on my curiosity and now I would like to see the different types of K26 Turbochargers that are out there. Everyone feel free to add, but this is what limited info I got.
All of these are audi but they are the only part numbers I could find
5326-970-6403
5326-970-6413
5326-970-6416
6326-970-6415
6326-970-6411
So we have 5 differnt part numbers I won't what we can get this up to
All of these are audi but they are the only part numbers I could find
5326-970-6403
5326-970-6413
5326-970-6416
6326-970-6415
6326-970-6411
So we have 5 differnt part numbers I won't what we can get this up to
#3
Race Director
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Wait... I thought it was 16?
Let's see, you've got two possible turbine and compressor housings each, so that's 2*2. And then there's two combinations of turbine and compressor wheels each, so that's another 2*2. So the final result would be 2*2*2*2 = 16 possible combinations, so 16 different part#?
Let's see, you've got two possible turbine and compressor housings each, so that's 2*2. And then there's two combinations of turbine and compressor wheels each, so that's another 2*2. So the final result would be 2*2*2*2 = 16 possible combinations, so 16 different part#?
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#5
Nordschleife Master
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Danno,
I dont have much left to do on my car, but I still have to connect the PS rack. Is it even possile with the turbo in? I sure am having a tough time
I dont have much left to do on my car, but I still have to connect the PS rack. Is it even possile with the turbo in? I sure am having a tough time
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#6
Addict
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Luke, are you talking about getting the knuckle joint back on the spline? If so do you have the caps tight on the rack,,if so loosen them up just a bit and spray the rubbers down with some silicone. This should give you a small amount of movement with the rack; this couple with a good prybar and long flat blade screwdriver. Mine was a bitch last week too. It finally popped in when we loosened the caps just a bit.
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#8
Race Director
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I take it the rack's not attached to the cross-member? It goes in but you have to have it high enough because the clamp on the end of the steering arm moves back as it moves down, throwing the whole alignment with the rack out of whack. Also the rack has to be tight up against the crossmember as you're raising it.
#9
Nordschleife Master
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SO, you raise the rack into the steering knuckle? and I'll be able to supply enough force like that? wow. I better try prying open this knuckle alittle more.
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#10
Race Director
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Yup, you raise the rack into the clamp. Before I took my rack off, I just hammered a big screwdrier into the clamp to spread it out. Then I just left it in there while did the rest of the work. Then I lifted the rack back up into the clamp and everything went back together. Make sure you have the rack centered with the centering tool and the steering wheel straight. I had to take the rack on and a off three times before I could line up the splines just right to center the steering.
#11
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Wish we would have done this thread last week..it would have saved blood. I ended up with the pry bar slipping and busted knuckles; but that's when it popped in. Raise the rack into the knuckle; did you have a second set of hands or use a tie wrap to hang it off, the steering knuckle Danno?
#12
Race Director
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Nah, I just used a floor jack to slowly raise it. Then I had both hands free to wiggle it into the clamp. Actually, the last nudge was provided by the jack because I had it too low and it was only in halfway. When I jacked it up the final 1", it went in all the way with no problems (no force needed if all the pieces are in alignment).