drive tube info is it a secret!!
05-13-2002, 12:57 PM
#1
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drive tube info is it a secret!!
I'm wondering does anyone know where i can get info on the drive tube assembly on 944s. I have both the haynes manual and porsche cd manual, but the subject is skipped in both publications
05-13-2002, 01:28 PM
#3
i believe that they are about the same from the 924, and they arent that hard to rebuild. Go to <a href="http://www.924.org" target="_blank">www.924.org</a> and post in there and they will tell you how to do it.
Mark
Mark
05-13-2002, 02:55 PM
#4
I read a write up on a rebuild once. Basically they marked the position on the bearings in the tube, beat out the bearing and took it to a bearing supplier to get a replacement. Then they beat the bearings back into position. Didn't sound like any fun to me.
There is a place in Chicago that does this repair but I noticed that you are in Spain and I doubt that a torque tube would be considered carry-on luggage.
There is a place in Chicago that does this repair but I noticed that you are in Spain and I doubt that a torque tube would be considered carry-on luggage.
05-14-2002, 01:14 AM
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Actually, they are very easy to rebuild. The hardest thing is getting the torque tube out of the car.
The bearings are held in with rubber surrounds and slide out with a bit of force. Basically, you knock the driveshaft out, fairily easily, and then you knock the bearings out.
You can get replacement bearings from a bearing supply place, just take one in so they can find a proper replacement.
You need to have a few proper tools do drive the shaft, and then bearings out of the tube. dowel with a slightly smaller diameter than the shaft can be used to drive it out. The bearings take a bit more work as you need to get them out one at a time. <a href="http://www.924.org" target="_blank">www.924.org</a> has details in their technical section.
Abdul
The bearings are held in with rubber surrounds and slide out with a bit of force. Basically, you knock the driveshaft out, fairily easily, and then you knock the bearings out.
You can get replacement bearings from a bearing supply place, just take one in so they can find a proper replacement.
You need to have a few proper tools do drive the shaft, and then bearings out of the tube. dowel with a slightly smaller diameter than the shaft can be used to drive it out. The bearings take a bit more work as you need to get them out one at a time. <a href="http://www.924.org" target="_blank">www.924.org</a> has details in their technical section.
Abdul
05-14-2002, 01:32 AM
#7
Race Director
Here's some info I had laying around:
"Order 4 of 6006ZB C4 Bearings, they are an odd size and can be hard to locate so get them first. Bearing cartridges come in different grades; get the highest available like grade-0 or grade-00. Avoid anything of lower quality than grade-10.
Remove the Torque tube from the car, this can be done without disconnecting the brake lines or cables, but it may be easier to do so (the transmission must be removed first).
Measure how far into the tube each of the end bearings are located from the end, mark the tube or write it down.
Get a piece of steel pipe that fits over the drive shaft, the thicker the pipe the better.
I added a flat piece to the end that pushed evenly on the bearing housing so as not to deform or twist it.
Remove the shaft by belting the hell out of it, I held the tube in a vice and had an assistant steady the end of the pipe while I hit it with a sledge hammer (this can be done with threaded rods as a puller but is not necessary)
After the shaft and bearings are out I put the end of the shaft against a block of wood and belted the bearings down the shaft with just the weight and impact of the steel pipe.
After the bearings are removed press the plastic sleeve out of the inside of the bearing (a socket and a hammer will do this) do not throw these away as they are reused.
Next drill the six rivets out of the bearing retainers (5mm drill bit) and separate the two halves, later cars do not have riveted bearing carriers (easier).
Throw the old bearings away and reassemble the new bearings in the housings with new rivets if necessary, I ground part of the rivets away so it would fit in thegroove (this is obvious when you can see it), I also used a small spacer between the rivet gun and the rivets so they would pull in evenly.
I then pushed the shaft in from the gearbox end with the bearing closest to that end fitted to the shaft, the shaft goes in until it is 49mm +/- 0.5mm from the edge of the gearbox end bellhousing (specs from factory manual).
Next I put the assembly hard up against a solid wall with a piece of wood jammed between the driveshaft and the wall, this stops the drive shaft sliding back out when fitting the other bearings.
Next I installed the bearings by pushing the housings down to their appropriate position with the steel pipe, I put marks on the pipe so I wouldn't push the bearings too far.
After installing all four check the shaft end is still 49mm +/- 0.5mm from the edge of the gearbox end bellhousing."
"Order 4 of 6006ZB C4 Bearings, they are an odd size and can be hard to locate so get them first. Bearing cartridges come in different grades; get the highest available like grade-0 or grade-00. Avoid anything of lower quality than grade-10.
Remove the Torque tube from the car, this can be done without disconnecting the brake lines or cables, but it may be easier to do so (the transmission must be removed first).
Measure how far into the tube each of the end bearings are located from the end, mark the tube or write it down.
Get a piece of steel pipe that fits over the drive shaft, the thicker the pipe the better.
I added a flat piece to the end that pushed evenly on the bearing housing so as not to deform or twist it.
Remove the shaft by belting the hell out of it, I held the tube in a vice and had an assistant steady the end of the pipe while I hit it with a sledge hammer (this can be done with threaded rods as a puller but is not necessary)
After the shaft and bearings are out I put the end of the shaft against a block of wood and belted the bearings down the shaft with just the weight and impact of the steel pipe.
After the bearings are removed press the plastic sleeve out of the inside of the bearing (a socket and a hammer will do this) do not throw these away as they are reused.
Next drill the six rivets out of the bearing retainers (5mm drill bit) and separate the two halves, later cars do not have riveted bearing carriers (easier).
Throw the old bearings away and reassemble the new bearings in the housings with new rivets if necessary, I ground part of the rivets away so it would fit in thegroove (this is obvious when you can see it), I also used a small spacer between the rivet gun and the rivets so they would pull in evenly.
I then pushed the shaft in from the gearbox end with the bearing closest to that end fitted to the shaft, the shaft goes in until it is 49mm +/- 0.5mm from the edge of the gearbox end bellhousing (specs from factory manual).
Next I put the assembly hard up against a solid wall with a piece of wood jammed between the driveshaft and the wall, this stops the drive shaft sliding back out when fitting the other bearings.
Next I installed the bearings by pushing the housings down to their appropriate position with the steel pipe, I put marks on the pipe so I wouldn't push the bearings too far.
After installing all four check the shaft end is still 49mm +/- 0.5mm from the edge of the gearbox end bellhousing."
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05-14-2002, 08:20 PM
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On checking mine while in the middle of a clutch job, Ive found the bearings dont feel as smooth as they should when i spin the shaft (free at both ends), but I ve spent enough this time round new clutch, slave cyl repair kit, rear main seal, full belt job, Im just thinking ahead to the next likely problem. Iwill probably replace the bearings myself sounds like an interesting challenge. thanks guys for all the replys
