DanG

I'm looking for either a fix or a used shift lever. The pin on mine that fits into the end of the shaft is worn to the point that I can barely get it into 1st and 2nd.



Pelican Parts wants $43 for a new one. I think I can do with a used one or a suggestion of how to fix mine.

ram_one

I've got one that's only about a year old. Just swapped it out for a short shift kit.
How's $20 with free shipping?

Der Cupmeister

I used a bench grinder to grind off the weld on the back of the lever to get the old worn pin out then took a 10mm bolt and ran it through the shift rod and then through the hole in the shift lever. I have a thin nut on either side of the lever and a wavy washer between the inside nut and the shift rod. Should last forever, and there is no more sloppy shifter either

hth,
Jim Cooper
'84 944
Der Cupmeister

AndyK

Slightly off-topic, but:

How do you remove the OEM shift ****/boot? On my previous cars, I unscrewed the ****, and the boot came off after that. ON our P-cars, looks like the **** and boot are one piece of leather...

??

Robby

AndyK- unfortunately, the turbo's have a one-piece boot/****, which is one reason why people install short shifters (like SFR's), so they can use Momo ***** and boots. But, you list a 944NA in your signature... Anyway, if you look at the pic of the lever you can get an idea of what's what- the right side is the end the **** sits on. You see how it has a squared end? A normal shift **** like a Momo has a round end- however, I think what you're asking is if the leather, from boot to ****, can be separated(?)- if so, then the answer is no, assuming it's a turbo, and/or like the lever in the pic. I HAVE heard of other NA's that were supposed to allow aftermarket ***** on them, but have never really checked one out- it could have to do w/specific years possibly(?) Anyone?

DanG- It may just be me, but I'm not sure what you are referring to- I THOUGHT I did, but you say it only prevents you from getting into 1st & 2nd(?). Is there a way you could circle the piece you're talking about in the pic? I'm not sure how to do this, but I've seen other people do it on here- a type of photo shop trick or something- ANYONE? I'd like to know how to do that myself....

BTW, you may know this, but you're missing the rubber pieces that wrap around the lever- these really do help prevent vibrations & road noise from getting through the ****, etc- again, you may already be aware, but, JUST IN CASE... I bought a short shifter from Dave Harrington awhile back, so I could use a Momo ****, and it's a great piece, very well machined, etc- the ONLY prob is the vibration that gets through- that's why I mention the rubber pieces. And, since I've seen these parts up close, it's bugging me that I dont understand what you're referring too...

DanG

ram_one, you've got email.

Also, how are the short shift kits constructed? The only/easiest way I can think of without changing the shaft or any of the linkage on the transmission would be to move the pin further up the lever from the pivot at the bottom. But I'd imagine the shaft would start hitting the tunnel/opening after just a small change. Are the short shift kits out there really that or are they just choking the shift **** lower down on the lever?

DanG

Oh yeah, the rubber boot that goes under the leather one on my car is ripped and allows a LOT of hot air through (the hole in the leather doesn't help much, but you can't see it so I'm not concerned). Does anyone have one of these in good shape or know where I can find one? My duct tape fix lasted about 20 minutes.

Thanks again,
Dan

Robby

...to move the pin further up the lever from the pivot at the bottom...

THIS IS EXACTLY HOW IT'S DONE- THE ONE I HAVE, HAS A HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT (ALLOWS **** TO BE RAISED & LOWERED) WHICH HELPS A TINY BIT, AND, IT'S ADJ AT THE BASE TOO- THE FURTHER AWAY FROM THE CUP AT THE BOTTOM, THE SHORTER THE THROW...

But I'd imagine the shaft would start hitting the tunnel/opening after just a small change.

BINGO! I ONLY ADJUSTED MINE ABOUT HALF-WAY (OF THE TOTAL POSSIBLE ADJUSTMENT) AND IT STARTED MAKING A CLUNKING TYPE OF NOISE WHEN MOVED SIDE TO SIDE THROUGH NEUTRAL- I HAD TO ADJ IT WAY ON BACK BEFORE THE NOISES FINALLY SUBSIDED & IT PROBABLY ISN'T MUCH SHORTER THAN STOCK NOW (MAYBE 10%). BUT I DO HAVE A MOMO ****, FOR WHAT THAT'S WORTH- AS SOON AS I FIGURE OUT A WAY TO GET RID OF THE FU**ING NOISE (VIBRATIONS, BUZZING, ETC) THEN I'LL BE HAPPY W/IT. I ALSO NEED TO BUY A MOMO BOOT (I KIND OF WANT A NEW MOMO **** TOO- I THINK IT'S THE F-16 THAT i'M LOOKING AT, BUT AM NOT 100% SURE)- THE BOOT I BOUGHT FOR MINE (STOCK 944NA) GOT TORN UP A LITTLE WHILE TRYING TO GET EVERYTHING IN CORRECTLY- WISH I'D KNOWN MOMO MADE A SCREW ON (TO THE BOTTOM) TYPE BOOT- WOULD HAVE SAVED ME SOME $ IN THE END, AND LOOKED A LOT BETTER TOO...


Are the short shift kits out there really that or are they just choking the shift **** lower down on the lever?

SEE ABOVE. THE ONLY SHORT SHIFTER I'M AWARE OF THAT ISN'T THIS WAY IS THE AUTOTHORITY ONE, WHICH ACTUALLY CONNECTS AT THE TRANNY....

Oh yeah, the rubber boot that goes under the leather one on my car is ripped.... My duct tape fix lasted about 20 minutes....

SAME HERE- I TRIED THE SAME THING- DUCT TAPE REALLY JUST DOES NOT WANT TO STICK TO THAT RUBBER DOES IT? I WASN'T EVEN SURE THAT THE HOLES WEREN'T SUPPOSED TO BE THERE UNTIL SOMEONE TOLD ME- I HAVE FOUR OF THEM, AND THEY'RE ALL IN LINE IN SUCH A WAY AS TO MAKE THEM LOOK ALMOST INTENTIONAL (FROM THE FACTORY)

BTW, I AM NOT YELLING AT YOU- I AM EXPERIMENTING W/A NEW WAY TO QUOTE THESE POSTS (CUT & PASTE, COPY, WHATEVER) AND AM NOT SURE HOW IT WILL COME UP- I WANTED TO MAKE SURE THE QUESTIONS COULD BE DIFFERENTIATED FROM THE ANSWERS. I GUESS I'M ABOUT TO FIND OUT <img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" />

DanG

seems the lower rubber boot is a common problem. I'm going to try stitching some duct tape in place. If I can't stop the leak, at least I can slow it down.

jjs

thanks for the inspiration cupmeister, I'm going to use your idea this weekend. I've been putting off replacing mine because I've been wrapping a piece of duct tape around the pin for three months now to make it thick enough. It lasts about two weeks then starts to squeak like hell.