Allen "plug"(?) on flywheel
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
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So after replacing everything in the engine bayI still have a problem. With the key on but the car off the tach bounces around and the injectors fire. I thought I had it fixed a while back after replacing the DME harness with a new used one and repairing every connection, but the problem came back. I have a new lindsey harness on its way (damn USPS "missent") that I will install to eliminate any possibiltiy of wiring.
While re-gapping the s\r sensor distance I noticed one of those allen "plugs" on the flywheel (what do you call them?) looks like its been wacked with a hammer - more likely a speed\ref sensor.
The tach and everything bounces when cranking and moving that part of the flywheel away from the sensors when putting the key in on the position doesn't change the tach bouncing\injector firing problem. Does anyone think that could be the source of all these problems? I don't know how I could replace it without taking the flywheel off - can't fit an allen head socket in it, would probably need heat and vise grips to remove it..
thanks
mike
While re-gapping the s\r sensor distance I noticed one of those allen "plugs" on the flywheel (what do you call them?) looks like its been wacked with a hammer - more likely a speed\ref sensor.
The tach and everything bounces when cranking and moving that part of the flywheel away from the sensors when putting the key in on the position doesn't change the tach bouncing\injector firing problem. Does anyone think that could be the source of all these problems? I don't know how I could replace it without taking the flywheel off - can't fit an allen head socket in it, would probably need heat and vise grips to remove it..
thanks
mike
#2
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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that thingy is the reference mark on the flywheel...thats what the reference sensor uses to count each rotation of the flywheel once, if the ref sensor cant see it it cant bounce on the tach.
#4
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yes it potentially could....check the voltage going to the DME while cranking..each sensor should be sending around 2.5V if I remember right...it's in the service manual, I suggest you read that and test connections at the DME before just replacing things and hoping that solves the problem