gratian

Now i understand you guys, but i try to disconnect 1, 2 even all injectors but no change for sparks ,that the reason that i suppose is a DME failure.And thanks Lorenf for the tip.Gra

gratian

Monday i will disassemble all injectors line to see if injectors are actually spray fuel.I want to ask if the temperature sensor could be a problem?If its stuck the DME can understand that the engine is overheated?I read somewhere that when you move the butterfly, the fuel pump must run,but on my car, the pump run only when the starter is running.I also read on the net that ML 3.1 can shows some failure codes. I try the combination(5 times push and release gas pedal) but there is no lamp that makes flashes.I can identify only the idle switch,the other for max opening of the admission is not present or what?Thanks .GRA

gratian

Loren,I see your web site and maybe you can help with some values for the next electronic parts?RBDT 93,RBDT 65A,OF 622,ON588,ON946.Some of these transistor are in the exit stage for spark impulses and maybe 1 is bad.If you have a diagram for 0 261 200 077 DME it will be wonderful.Thanks.GRA

gratian

And,Loren you say that what is happening with my DME is a common failure.So on another Dme that you repair what was the problem?Is true that after i start the car I hear some vibration from the exhaust system and after that the engine shuts down.Maybe vibrations cause an improper solder in DME?

gratian

If my normal email wont work, try this one grainginer@myporsche.zzn.com

gratian

There is 7 hours delay between our countries and the waiting is killing me...

Tom Carson

frwilk.com has a lot of information on this...

check:

<a href="http://www.frwilk.com/944dme/" target="_blank">http://www.frwilk.com/944dme/</a>

to download a schematic (2 pdf files)

Tom Carson

also read this from an old post...

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by JLeake:
<strong>the transistor that fires the coil is located on the DME. Over time the solder joints can crack and give you an intermittant stalling problem. The car will run fine and then all of a sudden behave as if you turned the ignition off. Good news is it's an easy, cheap fix. You take apart the DME and look for the largest transistor. If the solder joints have little cracks, you've found your problem. Heat the solder joints with a low wattage iron (~25 watt) and use a solder bulb to suck out the old solder. Re-solder..</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">

gratian

Yes, Tom that what I am thinking about now,in waiting for the coil to try to solder all major parts in DME.Today,I measure again that large connector that enter the Dme, and I found that grounds are 2,5,16,17,19 and 28, but no. 4 pin has a resistance of 2 ohms??? the 12 V are 1,14,15,18,20,33,34,35(using 19 as ground for measurements) but on 21 pin I read 5,15V, this is normal? all 12 v remain when i put the key in start position, only 18 and 35 goes to 0.I also clean those 2 engine grounds(AGAIN)and change the places between B and D sensor to see if one is bad, but no change.I remove also all injection line, and all 4 injectors spray fuel.If the coil is the problem I swear to put this one to rails.About Frwilk,I read his website 2 days ago, and explain him my problem and ask some questions.His answer Was:"The DME relay is always a problem".Thanks but no thanks...So what else I have to do to figure out what is the problem?Thanks.GRA

Tom Carson

hmm...does your car have an alarm?

did you try to connect a wire directly from + 12v of battery terminal to small black ignition coil wire (to by-pass the ignition key)

gratian

Yes, Tom, I do have an alarm,but I buy it and put in the car and it has no connection with the Dme or other parts that can make influence in starting.I also put a direct wire to the coil and nothing(of coarse all bulbs are lightening on dash...)And since now I was thinking that I am in trouble but now I am in deep ****...Today,when I try to put back the ignition line i touch someway an injector noosle and now drops appears on every 20 seconds and I don't know if I can repair this.But,you now, life keep going and if I do not have this bad luck, who else?I am hoping that the coil is the problem, if no, I don't know really what to do...Tomorrow I will disassemble the DME and try to solder big parts so pry for me.Some other guy on list has the same problem and he truly say that is a gremlins problem.Thanks.Gra