It's gotta come apart.

 

why am i not surprised. i have to do more research to figure out how i can confirm from 1400 miles away that the 70k example i am negotiating on is not going to grenade itself.

 

Tom, those bearings are more in the $150 range, not $10. You need to drop the tranny and take it apart and properly preload it to do this.
Depending on the location of the potential car, I could recommend some factory trained experts in the area to do a PPI.
Raj

 

Raj,
As soon as i get close to arranging a PPI I will PM you. the one i am 'waiting out' the seller (as in im the only buyer and he is 2k more than i want to spend on his non locking diff car) is further west of me.

 

Looking at your location, you are close to one of the best guys who works on these cars. I look forward to your PM.
Raj

 

I have driven both types of difflocks on racetrack and during winter, as well on normal boring dry weather. On trackuse torsen-type is better than normal, because it is faster. Also, when driving in winter the clutch difflock is slower and engages the lock every now and then in rather interesting situations. Or, should I say, when the clutch lock engages it does it in the middle of the curve and it might lead into those perviously mentioned situations when you find the morning coffee has dropped down into your pants. Regarding on my own personal experience torsen-type lock does not act that way.

If I do not remember totally wrong, torsen-type difflock was the only option for 968. Quaife torsen-type locks I know have been installed on various front engine Porsches with good experiences. GT, never heard about that one.

I drive my car usually app. 100km's a day all year around no matter what the weather is. I have also been a Porsche Club Finland race instructor for 2 seasons. I'm not bragging, but i do have some perspective on this issue. For the record I add the list of P-cars from past 11 years in chronological order. I just add them here because I dislike loooooooong sicknatures.

Bought for driving:
924 -84
924S -86
951 -88
944 -88
951 -91
911 SC -78
924 -79
924 -81
968CS -93

Bought for repair/sell/dismantling
944 -84 dismantled, sold away
944 -86 bought with busted engine, repaired and sold away
944 -87 dismantled, sold away
924 -77 dismantled, sold away, bodyshell left
951 -87 dismantled, sold away, bodyshell left

 

Hmm, I think maybe you are comparing Torsen to an E-diff or PSD some sort of electronic locker. Standard clutch type LSD just uses a clutch to make it harder to spin the axles at different speeds. If they are grabbing 'every now and then' maybe you had the wrong fluid in there and it was not slipping properly.

-Joel.

 

As far as I'm aware there's no electric difflocks in any 944/951 series cars in Finland. Ive had such things on my ATV's, though. All the cars I've had the clutch-type difflock have been acting the same way. I have mede my bread and butter from cars in general for all my life, so putting a right oil in difflock is more or less obvious for me.

Clutch type difflock just is just slower than torsen-type, that was my point. In my previous 951 I had 298Hp/495Nm and that difflock was slow when it was wet. Maybe it was worn out, maybe those friction pads just were'nt in proper working condition anymore. Who knows. When all is said and done, torsen-type is still better because it is simple and fast. If I had to replace the difflock on S2/951, I would go for Quaife or such without any hesitation. It might be a bit more expensive, but one gets ones moneys worth on that.