rear hatch problems
#1
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rear hatch problems
Well after 138,000 miles, the rear hatch glass has decided to start pulling away from the frame. Only a little bit on one side, but just enough to allow a little bit of water in. Should I just fill the gap with some silicone or is there some other solution to prevent further separation? If I remember correctly, this is a fairly common problem on older 944s and 924s, right? Thanks in advance for any help
#2
Haven't done this before, but here are the best sources of info that I found:
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ass_repair2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ass_repair2.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-17.htm" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-17.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf</a>
Perhaps getting a used hatch on Ebay be an option?
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ass_repair2.htm" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...ass_repair2.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-17.htm" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/body-17.htm</a>
<a href="http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf</a>
Perhaps getting a used hatch on Ebay be an option?
#4
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There are solutions involving the correct 3m sealant and a lot of time, some should be in the history.
Last year mine started getting a little noisy, so I masked it off and ran a fine bead of silicone seal around the outside top, forcing it into the gap between the glass and metal with my finger. It's been quiet ever since and you can't see the silicone seal unless you look really close. Make sure you remove the masking tape right away.
Last year mine started getting a little noisy, so I masked it off and ran a fine bead of silicone seal around the outside top, forcing it into the gap between the glass and metal with my finger. It's been quiet ever since and you can't see the silicone seal unless you look really close. Make sure you remove the masking tape right away.
#6
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by beab951:
<strong>I had mine cut out of the frame and resealed at my local auto glass shop.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Was that expensive?
<strong>I had mine cut out of the frame and resealed at my local auto glass shop.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Was that expensive?
#7
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I found a local glass shop that pulled the glass out of the frame and reglued it together. I think I paid $190. That was two years ago and still holding.
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#8
Total was a little over $100. They had to use a special saw to cut out the glue between the frame and the window. It required some time and skill to do this. Results are great because they replaced the old adhesive with new (stronger) adhesive.
#10
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I took mine to a glass shop for an estimate, when the guy looked at it he got the silicone gun and sealed it right there, and said that if I need to get it fixed to come back, the sealing was free and to hand out his cards. You have to look for it to see it.
#11
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I bought an inexpensive kit off eBay (the one described in the 9xauto link cited by ACG above). It was easy to do, very effective and has held up for 2 years so far. YMMV