MyBlackCar

Does anyone have a link to a current DIY for the rod bearings? Paragon's and Pelican's pages no longer exist.

I found out that my oil pan gasket is developing a leak that is dripping on my exhaust. When I decide to spring for a new gasket (yes, I read of the horror of dropping the crossmember), I might order the rod bearings, too.

A lot of you have mentioned this job can be done completely from the bottom end. What I do not understand is how the top portion of the rod bearing comes out of the bottom? I am sure I need more info to understand this process.

Thanks.

FRporscheman

If the top part of the bearing stays on the crank, then you can either slide it down under, or you can turn the crank over so it's facing down.

If the top part of the bearing stays on the rod, then you can turn the crank over so it's out of the way, then (if needed) pull the rod down far enough to have access, then pluck it off the rod.

I've actually never done this with the engine in the car so maybe I missed a detail, but I watched a friend do it to his, and yes you can definitely do it with the engine in.

MyBlackCar

Here is another question about rod bearings. After talking to my mechanic, he says the engine needs to be out because it would be difficult to check for clearance on the bearings. Therefore, the engine must be out of the car to do it right. There is a plastic tool that is needed for this job.

What is checking for clearance and what is this plastic tool? Is it that strip like thing that Pelican sells? Can it be done with the crank and engine in the car?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg7.htm#item42

Spidey944

dont forget www.clarks-garage.com

Mike C.

I've done this job 'in the car'. At TDC, the number 1 and 4 pistons are all the way up, while number 2 and 3 are at BDC. So set engine at TDC, remove oil pan and do 2 and 3 first. Once you unbolt the bearing cap, you will be able to (carefully) push the rod/piston up, away from the crank. Then you slip out the upper bearing shell, install the new one. Install a new bearing shell in the lower cap. Wipe off the crank journal with a CLEAN rag or paper towel. The plastic mentioned is Plasti-gage. Google it and you'll see how it's used. Obtain it at any good auto parts store. Put a length of p-g in the lower bearing cap across the shell at bottom. Bolt the bearing cap back on using the old connecting rod nuts, torque to spec (you will use new nuts for final assy). Do not rotate crank. Now remove the bearing cap to reveal the squashed p-g and compare squash width to the little chart that comes with p-g. This tells you the bearing clearance. If acceptable, wipe off the p-g, apply oil/assy lube and reinstall the bearing cap with new nuts, torque to spec. Move on to number 3, repeat. Then rotate crank so numbers 1 and 4 are at bottom.... Getting oil pan off is the bigger part of the job.

MyBlackCar

Awesome! That clears things up a lot. I might just do the oil pan and rod bearing myself. And I was finally able to find a cached version of Paragon's Rod Bearing DIY. Clarks Garage's version is pretty hard to follow if one has not done it before.

http://web.archive.org/web/200411251...x_v2&id=70&c=4

FRporscheman

That's a great link! Thanks!

AlpharettaRK

I would strongly recommend slipping a piece of fuel line hose over the rod bolts once the lower half is removed. This will prevent damaging the crank should you slip while pushing it up to remove the upper bearing shell.

Mike C.

Yes, I forgot that..