S2 Must do jobs?
08-10-2008, 08:12 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
S2 Must do jobs?
A while back, I bought an S2 after previously having an 8v 944.
I know all about the belts and pumps and what not. Isn't there something special about the 16v head that needs preventative maintenance attention every so often? The car has about 100K on it and I drive it mostly on the track.
I know all about the belts and pumps and what not. Isn't there something special about the 16v head that needs preventative maintenance attention every so often? The car has about 100K on it and I drive it mostly on the track.
08-10-2008, 08:43 PM
#4
Instructor
08-10-2008, 09:52 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
There's a (conservative) school of thought that says you'd need "one of each" from that list. I.e. the tensioner and the chain and the oil line. ( "J" pipe/tube)
That school says that it's cheap insurance against the utter carnage that a tensioner/chain faiure can cause.
Cheaper, braver folk just do the pads. Midlings do the tensior and pipe w/o the chain (since the chain replacement involces cam removal which involves belt removal and re-tensioning, which can means rollers belts and water pumps etc. It's a slippery slope.)
Choose your risk exposure comfort level and proceed as required.
RK
That school says that it's cheap insurance against the utter carnage that a tensioner/chain faiure can cause.
Cheaper, braver folk just do the pads. Midlings do the tensior and pipe w/o the chain (since the chain replacement involces cam removal which involves belt removal and re-tensioning, which can means rollers belts and water pumps etc. It's a slippery slope.)
Choose your risk exposure comfort level and proceed as required.
RK
08-10-2008, 10:09 PM
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks. Is there a better guide than clarks for this? I'm overwhelmed by the text. 
I like a lot of photos! It didn't seem terribly hard however...
I like a lot of photos! It didn't seem terribly hard however...
08-10-2008, 10:36 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
I think I remember seeing a photo serial on this precedure - I did it (tensioner and pipe) and it's easy actuallly.
CG's procedures are always spot on - just read it 1000 times before and refer to it all through. But also search Rennlist - there are photos.
RK
CG's procedures are always spot on - just read it 1000 times before and refer to it all through. But also search Rennlist - there are photos.
RK
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08-11-2008, 10:32 AM
#8
Captain Obvious
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
search me "cam tensioner project"...I did just the pads and inspected the tensioner too. my car has the metal tube (updated from the 87). Of course, my car had only 120 some-odd thousand kms on it.
944online sells a new tensioner with pads.
944online sells a new tensioner with pads.
08-12-2008, 02:02 PM
#9
On my S I did the whole tensioner and j-tube (oil supply). This is expensive but probably best. It's an easy job. Just take your time.
If you really, really want to do the job right you need to do the chain too. The chain stretches over time and will wear the cam sprockets, and can eventually cause other problems. This job involves removing the camshafts, and in my opinion is a job left to the pros. You'd need to retime the cams. This is hard to get really right, especially if you want perfectly timed cams to ensure your engine's power delivery (not to mention preventing piston / valve contact...).
Now, if you just do the tensioner / j tube, you will need new crush washers for the tube, and new mounting bolts for the tensioner. My advice is to reuse the $26 banjo bolts for the j tube...
The other thing is to replace those cam cover bolts. Again, expensive!! Rennbay makes cheaper options that are reportedly of a better material. I used them and like them. The OEM ones are really flimsy. People routinely break them or strip them trying to put them in or out. You can feel them giving and twisting right before they break free of the head. And they are only torqued to 6 ft lbs!!! I say replace, and eliminate any headaches.
(All these bolts are torqued to 6 ft lbs. Be very very careful not to overtorque, as it is easy to strip threads in your aluminum head.)
-Mike
If you really, really want to do the job right you need to do the chain too. The chain stretches over time and will wear the cam sprockets, and can eventually cause other problems. This job involves removing the camshafts, and in my opinion is a job left to the pros. You'd need to retime the cams. This is hard to get really right, especially if you want perfectly timed cams to ensure your engine's power delivery (not to mention preventing piston / valve contact...).
Now, if you just do the tensioner / j tube, you will need new crush washers for the tube, and new mounting bolts for the tensioner. My advice is to reuse the $26 banjo bolts for the j tube...
The other thing is to replace those cam cover bolts. Again, expensive!! Rennbay makes cheaper options that are reportedly of a better material. I used them and like them. The OEM ones are really flimsy. People routinely break them or strip them trying to put them in or out. You can feel them giving and twisting right before they break free of the head. And they are only torqued to 6 ft lbs!!! I say replace, and eliminate any headaches.
(All these bolts are torqued to 6 ft lbs. Be very very careful not to overtorque, as it is easy to strip threads in your aluminum head.)
-Mike
08-12-2008, 02:30 PM
#10
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